Need Welder - But don't know jack (1 Viewer)

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Jun 8, 2007
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Hey everyone,

I need to pick up a welder for my upcoming v8 swap to my 72 fj40, currently stock 1F. Also need the welder to put power steering. I don't know diddly though. I see some of the welders that some use but don't know how cheap I can be without getting junk. I was thinking about the Millermatic 211, but what do you guys think I could use?

I will also do some tub repair, but I think the PS upgrade and motormounts for v8 will require decent power.
Any info is greatly appreciated.
 
MM211 is a great machine. I have the older MM210 and it does a great job on everything. Hang out on the hobartwelds forum for a little bit and read some of the discussions.

Don't let folks talk you into a machine bigger than what you need.
 
I'd look for a larger machine, used on craigslist. The duty cycle on that 211 is pretty pathetic (150a @ 30%) while the 210 is much better (60% @ 160A). If you get a 250A machine you can reliably spray arc which has great advantages.

I paid $650 for my Ltec/ Esab Migmaster 250 on CL. I don't see how having a machine bigger than what you need is a disadvantage unless you pay alot more for it.
 
Another MM210 here and it has been great. I've had it about 4 years and not one hiccough. I've done power steering, frame repairs, 2 spring overs etc. Plenty of power for all of that type of work.

I did not know the 211 had a lower duty cycle. I've never bumped up against mine. I don't know how that new auto-set jazz works. It's no big deal to set the power yourself. I have mine set on 1/4 settings and use that for almost everything.

The MM180 is a decent entry level machine with enough power to do anything on a Land Cruiser.

What ever your welder budget is, double it for all the ancillaries - grinders, drill press, helmet,, protective clothing, clamps, vice grips magnetic holders etc.

I would start with 0.030 wire with gas.

If I were buying again, I might get a 252. Spray transfer welds look really nice and I would like to be able to do that.

I agree that Craig's list has some nice equipment come up. I saw a MM251 that the guy had used once and stored. It looked brand new and it was $900 which is 1/2 price with a full bottle of gas.
 
I'd look for a larger machine, used on craigslist. The duty cycle on that 211 is pretty pathetic (150a @ 30%) while the 210 is much better (60% @ 160A). If you get a 250A machine you can reliably spray arc which has great advantages.

I paid $650 for my Ltec/ Esab Migmaster 250 on CL. I don't see how having a machine bigger than what you need is a disadvantage unless you pay alot more for it.

I just picked up a ESAB migmaster 250 for $500 :D

Should be at my house tonight :)

Gonna send my HH175 to my brother.
 
Nice deals, guys. I'm jealous. Sparse CL deals is one downfall of rural living.
I'd be happy to put any welder above to service in my garage. IMHO for the regular garage hack we should never notice any subtle variances.
 
I just picked up a ESAB migmaster 250 for $500 :D

Should be at my house tonight :)

Gonna send my HH175 to my brother.

Mace,

You my friend officially deserve the, "YOU SUCK" award for your Migmaster 250... Can you say 280 amps?

Nice score Jason. Post some pics of the welder when you get a chance?


Charles
 
My 175 miller is the perfect size for a hobbyist. The 110 machines are just not ever enough imo.

Yeah, I've always understood that, but do I have to choose form 120 or 240 only? So gas welders still need electricity? Sorry, this is my first welder. I posted here cuz I'd even stupider on pirate asking such a question.

If I really HAVE to have 240 then I guess I can run it to my garage, it's just more work that's all.


And regarding the ESAB migmaster 250 for $500? wow, havent seen this unit that cheap yet! My bbudget is about 500, since I know I'll have to get all the other goodies, I can't wait
:wrench:
I've soldered off/on for about 10 years, so welding shouldn't be THAT different, ya think?
 
Yeah, I've always understood that, but do I have to choose form 120 or 240 only? So gas welders still need electricity? Sorry, this is my first welder. I posted here cuz I'd even stupider on pirate asking such a question.

If I really HAVE to have 240 then I guess I can run it to my garage, it's just more work that's all.


And regarding the ESAB migmaster 250 for $500? wow, havent seen this unit that cheap yet! My bbudget is about 500, since I know I'll have to get all the other goodies, I can't wait
:wrench:
I've soldered off/on for about 10 years, so welding shouldn't be THAT different, ya think?


With a $500 budget, look for a decent MM175. There are tons of those out there, and they work great. If you get lucky, it will come with an owned gas bottle. Look for the other stuff on Craigs List as well, as it's easy to spend a lot of money on new equipment.

The electricity makes the arc, the gas is to protect the weld under a blanket of inert gas to avoid contaminating the weld. Though there is "gas welding" but that's a whole different thing.

Do not underestimate the stuff that goes with the welder. Helmet (the $60 auto dark at HF will get you started), grinders- you need at least 2, one with a cut off and one with a grinding wheel, clamps, and protective clothing/gloves. You also need drills, wire wheels, maybe a drill press a vice.

Just so you know, I was welding yesterday and some splatter hit my arm, burned through 3 layers of shirts and burned the skin pretty good. So it's worth spending a few $$ here. I have a good leather jacket but was cheating and not wearing it. And don't weld in flip flops.:D
 
I just picked up a ESAB migmaster 250 for $500 :D

Should be at my house tonight :)

Gonna send my HH175 to my brother.

How many times did it flip when it fell out of the back of the truck on the interstate? Cause that must be what happened if you got it that cheap. :D

NICE Score! You wont believe the power of that machine!
 
I've soldered off/on for about 10 years, so welding shouldn't be THAT different, ya think?

Yikes. It is very different than soldering and it it takes considerable skill. It is the skill that is important rather than what particular welder you use. I wouldn't weld anything with a significant load (like motor mounts or especially steering components) until you are skilled. The best way would be to take a class at your local community college. If you can't do that, get a text book and a weldor friend to show you proper technique and joint preparation ans show you how to test the welds. Then practice laying beads for about 10 hours in the particular type of joints you want to do. Test the welds to make sure that they are good. You can tell a bad weld by looking at it, but you can't tell if a good looking weld is good just by looking.
 
Thanks Pinhead and thanks everyone for the info. I'll do a LOT of practicing before touching something important as motormounts.

One last question, would any of the above mentioned welders be able to weld aluminum a well? Or is that something totally different?
 
The above mentioned welders are mig (GMAW/FCAW) machines. They can weld aluminum to varying degrees of success, but none as well as tig. Other than different equipment, aluminum requires different technique, too. It's generally accepted that aluminum is harder to weld than mild steel for the average weekend warrior weldor. That's mostly to do with not being able to see the puddle and it's color change as well as mild steel.
 
YEP, welding AL is different alright, you can watch a decent sized piece of AL just vaporize right infront of you, the puddle does change a little, from a shininess back to dull, almost like solder but not as obvious.

I taught myself to stick weld AL,,, very difficult, and I do not reccomend it to anyone. Go to a scrap yard and get some steel drops (not an auto junk yard) or a welding shop and buy their drops, they only get around 5$ per hundred so they will usually give you a bucket for 10-20$ of stuff that is too short for them to use again, it might be flat bar drops or bent tube ends etc, but those are good to pracitce on and cheap.
 
I'll do a LOT of practicing before touching something important as motormounts.

Out of position welding, like vertical, overhead and horizontal takes considerably more skill than flat welding. Mock up the type of weld you want to do, like the motor mounts and practice the weld and test it. When you can make a good weld that passes the destructive test every time, then you are ready to move ahead. I took a 1 semester course and I never was particularly good at over head and vertical arc welding. I did a fair amount of muffler tube welding (all OA), which is all out of position and got pretty good at it. The more experience and teaching the better you get.
 
I'm taking a continuing education course at SAIT (local post secondary tech school) with is the WELD203, or beginner's MIG course. I've been welding on and off for the last 3 years. I got some informal training from some hot-rod friends, and have burnt a couple rolls of wire since. However, I'm into the second week of the course now, and I'm kicking myself for not taking this course a few years ago....

They've taught everything from theory, basic metallurgy, electrical principals, etc. In the last couple sessions in the shop, we've been doing nothing but laying stringer beads and then filling in between them with weaving beads. This teaches proper puddle control and technique. In the next little while, we'll be doing all the joint styles, some flux-cored wire, and we've been told that maybe we'll hook up the spool guns and see what we can do with some aluminum.

Take a course. I'm not trying to be rude, but you'll learn more in the first two weeks of a night course than what you'll be able to teach yourself in months of reading on the internet. If you need some good research material, check out Miller's website or click here: Miller - Resources - Tools. Choose the student package....it's got a ton of really well put together material that will give you alot of background into welding. Read through as much as you possibly can when/if you get it. I ordered it and it arrived less that 4 days later (to Calgary Alberta).
 

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