ok i was checking for dirty tranny wires under my cruiser and i just found a pretty nasty leak out of the front diff it seems pretty bad so i am thinking about overhauling it any tips will help guys thanks!!
need to rebuild my front diff any advices?? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter joseluisram
- Start date
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Buy a complete kit. Takes about 4hrs with basic hand tools once the wheels are off. Maybe a little longer if you've never done it before. It can seem overwhelming, but its not bad at all. Hard part is lowering and lifting the center section out/back in. Many people are against the Marlin axle seals. I've never had a problem. I put a seal kit in mine a couple months ago, and ran one Toyota seal on one side and a Marlin on the other. Nothing leaks yet! As for specialty tools, you'll need a seal puller, brass punch, basic sockets and wrenches, gasket scraper, and if you have one readily available, a fish scale or spring scale for setting preload on the retaining nut. I've only used the scale method once in my life, and now do it by feel. Otherwise, dive in! Take pics as you disassemble the knuckle and all the seals/swipers/felts etc so you know how they go back in. I used a kit from Marlin for mine, and picked up two axle seals from my dealer as well. Post pics, we can help!
You'll also need the socket for the adjuster nuts, but in a pinch a hammer and chisel will get the job done. The Marlin kit came with all new bearings and seals and I believe it was $175 IIRC.
Watch this:
and
Read this:
Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ
I was a Knuckle rebuild virgin until recently but the whole job went swimmingly. Make sure to have lots of brake cleaner, disposable gloves and paper towels on hand.
and
Read this:
Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ
I was a Knuckle rebuild virgin until recently but the whole job went swimmingly. Make sure to have lots of brake cleaner, disposable gloves and paper towels on hand.
- Thread starter
- #6
yeap it seem like some dirty fun jaja i will check out the marlin gaskets thanks for the advice!!!
- Thread starter
- #7
it is leaking from the pinion but i recently replaced the front rotors and the gaskets were pretty bad and the stuff that is coming out of the pinion looks like greenish grease instead of diff oil it looks pretty nasty!
You need to replace the crush sleve If you remove the Pinion seal. Diffs are very anal, you need to know what your doing or find someone who does. I mean Knows how to do it correctly. Your diff breather Is clogged as well. Backlash and bearing preload need to be set dead on. I had my 9.5 rear pinion bearing off 5 times choosing the right shim for the solid spacer. Diffs require several specific tools to do the job as well. The seal Is why your leaking but may not be the cause. If you suspect other damage and are not sure how to proceed, send It to Zuk. Its hard to find good diff men thats why I learned to do my owm, Zuk Is a good One.
Last edited:
Hornd
SILVER Star
There is some controversy with the Marlin seals. They have a certain application that they are better at, but most go with Toyota Inner Seals.
I would start a Search (White Box Upper RH Corner) with "Knuckle" and go from there. Posts are as numerous as Republican Presidential Candidates. There is even a printable sheet with torques for each fastener.
From what I have read the mess is the worst part of this job, and preparation and cleanliness are keys to making it go smoothly.
I'm sure I will end up with Axle Grease in my ears and hair and likely have to be power washed.
I ordered all my stuff from Cruiser Outfitters and I think kit was a little over $100. It did not come with bearings.
There is a good chance the Koyo bearings are fine, but if not, Timkin makes replacements that can be sourced at Autozone (Rock Auto is cheap too if you want to go online). You could buy as needed if you do not need the Truck right away.
Now is also a good time to address the front brakes as you will have them off. Calipers can be rebuild, rotors replaced or turned, and pads replaced. Again you can evaluate/replace as you go if you have time.
You may also want to do both sides at the same time so you can switch the Birfield joints to get more even wear.
As a courtesy, add your experiences to a existing post so everyone can learn from it. Be confident knowing there is nothing your going to experience that has not likely already been seen.
I would start a Search (White Box Upper RH Corner) with "Knuckle" and go from there. Posts are as numerous as Republican Presidential Candidates. There is even a printable sheet with torques for each fastener.
From what I have read the mess is the worst part of this job, and preparation and cleanliness are keys to making it go smoothly.
I'm sure I will end up with Axle Grease in my ears and hair and likely have to be power washed.
I ordered all my stuff from Cruiser Outfitters and I think kit was a little over $100. It did not come with bearings.
There is a good chance the Koyo bearings are fine, but if not, Timkin makes replacements that can be sourced at Autozone (Rock Auto is cheap too if you want to go online). You could buy as needed if you do not need the Truck right away.
Now is also a good time to address the front brakes as you will have them off. Calipers can be rebuild, rotors replaced or turned, and pads replaced. Again you can evaluate/replace as you go if you have time.
You may also want to do both sides at the same time so you can switch the Birfield joints to get more even wear.
As a courtesy, add your experiences to a existing post so everyone can learn from it. Be confident knowing there is nothing your going to experience that has not likely already been seen.
Rebuild front Diff, Differential., Right? Or Is It leaking from the Axle Housing Balls ??
