Hey guys! I'm replacing the driver side half shaft because of a worn boot and am getting stumped with the removal of the inner part of the shaft. According to the maintenance manual, you use a brass bar to tap it out but I'm having very little luck with that, in fact I'm having no luck. I've been beating on it and it won't budge at all. Should I just continue until it gives or try working it apart with a pry bar? Any suggestions would be very appreciated. Thanks!
need some quick advice on removing driver side half shaft
- Thread starter gsxrguru2
- Start date
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Not sure where you're at in the process but if you are asking about removal of the CV shaft from the diff then this: Once I have the outer section of the CV free from the steering knuckle/hub assembly I just yank on the CV shaft and they always snap right out...sometimes it takes a couple back/forth yanks...jebus this is starting to sound like a porn tutorial 
...to get it to snap out of the diff.
Or if you are asking how to get the tulip separated: Be sure to remove the circlip under the boot before you try to separate the tulip from the CV shaft axle.
Or #2: If you are trying to separate the CV axle from the inner race I've had better luck getting the two parts separated by, using a brass hammer or large brass drift, pounding on the axle end with the bottom side of the race supported atop vise jaws...
FYI: Either drain some of the diff lube; or raise the side of the truck you are working on so that it is higher than the other and thus very little diff lube will escape; or have a drain pan under the CV side of the diff to catch the diff lube overflow.
...to get it to snap out of the diff.Or if you are asking how to get the tulip separated: Be sure to remove the circlip under the boot before you try to separate the tulip from the CV shaft axle.
Or #2: If you are trying to separate the CV axle from the inner race I've had better luck getting the two parts separated by, using a brass hammer or large brass drift, pounding on the axle end with the bottom side of the race supported atop vise jaws...
FYI: Either drain some of the diff lube; or raise the side of the truck you are working on so that it is higher than the other and thus very little diff lube will escape; or have a drain pan under the CV side of the diff to catch the diff lube overflow.
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What Dan Said^^^^
Also just to add.... It is way easier to pull the entire CV shaft out and work on it then trying to disassemble and remove only half of it while on the truck. There is also this thread on doing the job in the FAQ section:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/388534-cv-boots-replaced-directions-3.html#post6682453
It is what I used the first time I did the job....
Also just to add.... It is way easier to pull the entire CV shaft out and work on it then trying to disassemble and remove only half of it while on the truck. There is also this thread on doing the job in the FAQ section:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/388534-cv-boots-replaced-directions-3.html#post6682453
It is what I used the first time I did the job....
I've pulled both sides twice now and I use two XL screwdrivers, one on each side and pry mid-driver (not at the tip) between the forged tulip and the diff housing, being careful because there's a thin seal flange on the inside of the tulip. I pull the inboard first all the way out then fish the shaft back inward and down toward the center of the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks for the suggestions! Ended up snapping the tip off of a screwdriver but suddenly had a good excuse to buy some pry bars (yay for new tools!
). In the end I got it off and all put back together. Thanks for the quick responses fellas!!!
). In the end I got it off and all put back together. Thanks for the quick responses fellas!!!- Thread starter
- #6
The other half of the job: Need some quick advice on half shaft installation
So I got the old half shaft out the other day and am just now getting back to installing the new one. I'm getting hung up with getting the axle back into the housing. It seems like it'll go in about an inch or so and then that's it. Not quite sure how to get it over the hump and seated in there. I'm looking at the service manual and it shows that there is supposed to be a snap ring on the end that goes to the inboard on the vehicle but when it pulled out there wasn't one on there. As always, any advice on getting this thing back in would be appreciated!
So I got the old half shaft out the other day and am just now getting back to installing the new one. I'm getting hung up with getting the axle back into the housing. It seems like it'll go in about an inch or so and then that's it. Not quite sure how to get it over the hump and seated in there. I'm looking at the service manual and it shows that there is supposed to be a snap ring on the end that goes to the inboard on the vehicle but when it pulled out there wasn't one on there. As always, any advice on getting this thing back in would be appreciated!
There IS a snap ring located in a groove at the inboard end of the shaft. If it didn't come out when you pulled the original, chances are it is still in the housing. Get a mirror and a magnet and get it out. Its likely the old snap ring that is preventing your new shaft from seating properly.
There's a little groove on the inboard tulip. Use the same large scrap screwdriver and start wacking at it with as low of and angle as possible (parallel to the axis). Work both sides. Eventually you'll get the d-ring to compress and then CV shaft will go home into the housing.
Don't forget to top off your diff fluid if you lost some.
You're saying that the new shaft has no inboard snap ring or that the original snap ring did not come out with the original inboard shaft end?
Just to be clear, there are 4 rings involved with the CV repair:
- The outer snap ring under the dust cap (outboard of the rotor). This ring does not come with the boot kit and is vehicle-specific. You need to measure the width to get a correct replacement.
- The large, thin internal ring on the inboard tulip that keeps it from coming apart when you remove the boot. A replacement is provided with the kit.
- The small snap ring on the inner inboard tulip bearing race. IIRC, this is included with the boot kit as well.
- The d-ring (for lack of a better term) that locks the CV shaft into the differential.
It does come in a reboot kit and make sure to align it properly before trying to hammer it in....
I'm assuming you mean to align the splines and not the ring. From memory, the shaft will go in about 2/3 of the way before the splines touch. If aligned it will go all but the last 1" or so where the d-ring needs to snap into its groove.
In the FSM on page SA-27, Hint #2:
"Before installation, set a new snap ring with the opening side facing downward."
This is what I meant be aligning it.
Ha! Learn something new everyday! Funny how they put that in the removal section. Min is in SA-28, but I have the free 04 FSM. Makes sense as that would require the least amount to press in.