need opinions
- Thread starter stellz996
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Really hard to tell from your video. Maybe shoot while the hood is up and get someone else to rev it.
I replaced mine before it failed, because I had a primary catalytic converter die. I had to replace the left bank header and got a new gasket to throw in there too. I did the right bank at the same time as well.
It's not a fun job. My lovely wife assisted from above, while I wrangled the new header in place.
It's not a fun job. My lovely wife assisted from above, while I wrangled the new header in place.
Those videos are not helping; can't hear a thing in them. If my FJ was that quiet I'd be a very happy person.
Try getting out of the cabin, open the hood, and touching the phone to the motor somewhere in a cool spot; lay it on the air intake where it won't rattle and fall off.
Try getting out of the cabin, open the hood, and touching the phone to the motor somewhere in a cool spot; lay it on the air intake where it won't rattle and fall off.
That actually helps. Thanks.
A phone limits the frequencies it records, but I hear a lot of valve lifter clicking, and something lower end or piston 'rattling'; could even be the cam chain in the background, but nothing that doesn't sound similar to my relatively unused FJ's engine (~37k miles). My logic is that 0-20 synthetic oil doesn't dampen much, and just about every part that is oiled (has a clearance tolerance) makes some noise, and it all adds up.
Grab a long screw driver, point it at the engine in places and stick your ear to it. It helps isolate where the noise is coming from. I once found a bad alternator bearing that sounded like it was a rod about to blow. Bought that truck for $100 because the guy was certain it was the engine. A $35 rebuilt alternator and 20 minutes and I had a great work truck I drove for years.
...
On second listen, I do hear a 'knock' you might be asking about, but it doesn't sound like a rod knocking. At 1000rpm idle, a rod is spinning at 16Hz, not 2Hz. So the sound's rate leads me to belts, chains, etc. Could be a slapping fan or timing belt, a bad tensioner, etc. Again, a rod or screwdriver (or stethoscope) will help isolate the noise.
I'm not a mechanic by trade, but have been inside a few engines. And, it also doesn't sound too much different than my newer 2012 FJ engine. The fact mechanics have been near it and heard it and didn't say anything, I'd be biased to say it's normal.
A phone limits the frequencies it records, but I hear a lot of valve lifter clicking, and something lower end or piston 'rattling'; could even be the cam chain in the background, but nothing that doesn't sound similar to my relatively unused FJ's engine (~37k miles). My logic is that 0-20 synthetic oil doesn't dampen much, and just about every part that is oiled (has a clearance tolerance) makes some noise, and it all adds up.
Grab a long screw driver, point it at the engine in places and stick your ear to it. It helps isolate where the noise is coming from. I once found a bad alternator bearing that sounded like it was a rod about to blow. Bought that truck for $100 because the guy was certain it was the engine. A $35 rebuilt alternator and 20 minutes and I had a great work truck I drove for years.
...
On second listen, I do hear a 'knock' you might be asking about, but it doesn't sound like a rod knocking. At 1000rpm idle, a rod is spinning at 16Hz, not 2Hz. So the sound's rate leads me to belts, chains, etc. Could be a slapping fan or timing belt, a bad tensioner, etc. Again, a rod or screwdriver (or stethoscope) will help isolate the noise.
I'm not a mechanic by trade, but have been inside a few engines. And, it also doesn't sound too much different than my newer 2012 FJ engine. The fact mechanics have been near it and heard it and didn't say anything, I'd be biased to say it's normal.
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- Thread starter
- #11
i have thought about tensioners anf belts, also when i had my 570 the waterpump was leaking and made a knocking sound.
couldnt pin point anything with a screw driver, over hear thein aus the recommended oil is 5-30, i made the jump to a 5-40 as recommended by other fj owners.
this is also a 2014 model but had a life on a farm the past 4 years
couldnt pin point anything with a screw driver, over hear thein aus the recommended oil is 5-30, i made the jump to a 5-40 as recommended by other fj owners.
this is also a 2014 model but had a life on a farm the past 4 years
If the knock isn't louder using a stethoscope touching the engine block (or screwdriver 
I'd vote it's outside the engine. Try - with a very long screwdriver, listening in by touching the alternator (easiest), A/C pump (from under the truck), or PS pump (watch the belt doesn't grab you). The alternator may tell you enough: if you clearly hear the knock there, you know it's belt related.
A soft spot in a belt will rattle things pretty well as it takes up tension after the stretchy spot. Had a 15" W-belt make my treadmill sound as if the motor was going to explode. $5 later it purred along silently. I can imagine what a bad 40" W-belt would do by comparison.
I'd vote it's outside the engine. Try - with a very long screwdriver, listening in by touching the alternator (easiest), A/C pump (from under the truck), or PS pump (watch the belt doesn't grab you). The alternator may tell you enough: if you clearly hear the knock there, you know it's belt related.A soft spot in a belt will rattle things pretty well as it takes up tension after the stretchy spot. Had a 15" W-belt make my treadmill sound as if the motor was going to explode. $5 later it purred along silently. I can imagine what a bad 40" W-belt would do by comparison.
- Thread starter
- #13
i cant get close enough with a screw driver, thinking bout buying a stehoscope to use, but at the same time thinking taking to a different repurable mechanic (roadworthy inspection center) for second opinion.
dealership checked it when it was still under warranty so dont really trust there opinion
dealership checked it when it was still under warranty so dont really trust there opinion
Not a bad idea; but I can honestly say my engine makes some noises I can't explain and has done it since new. Some are knocking sounds not unlike yours. I write it off to low viscosity oil and light weight materials - the V6 has an aluminum block and heads.
btw - A rigid yard stick also works to listen to things a screwdriver won't reach. Metal is best, but wood works. A yard stick is cool because you can poke it on something, stick your ear to the flat side near the top while holding the top end. I learned a lot of cheap tricks rebuilding cars and motorcycles on a $3.00/hr budget
btw - A rigid yard stick also works to listen to things a screwdriver won't reach. Metal is best, but wood works. A yard stick is cool because you can poke it on something, stick your ear to the flat side near the top while holding the top end. I learned a lot of cheap tricks rebuilding cars and motorcycles on a $3.00/hr budget
- Thread starter
- #15
hearing stories of peooles brandnew ur and gr engines making noises is re-assuring but if you were to drive my car you pivk this noise up strait away. my mate drives a diesel patrol with strait pipes and 35 inch muddies so eberything is quite to him but he still noticed it.
its booked in at our local inspection center on saturday. so will see if they find something
its booked in at our local inspection center on saturday. so will see if they find something
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Why don’t you start by taking the accessory drive belt ( alternator, water pump, P/S, A/C, idler and tensioner pulleys) off, start it up. Is the noise gone? If it is, it could be any one of those parts.
- Thread starter
- #17
i have a habbit of breaking s*** if i do it my self, its booked in with a repurable mechanic so let see wat they say, hopefully just a pully ot belt issue