Need help with suspension install - yay!

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Do struts = springs? Have you extended your breathers yet? I don't know if you need to extend your bump stops, anyone? I have no idea if you need extended brake lines or not, but if anyone says maybe, do it. There's probably something real obvious that I'm forgetting, this sounds way too simple.

-Spike
 
steering stabalizer, front at least, but also rear sway bar spacer, and approx 2" bump stop spacers with 315's, break lines to be on the safe side. now that I said that I am sure someone will dissagree.
 
Struts = the yellow shock thingies...

Unless of course I'm completely wrong, which I probably am.
 
CodyRx7 said:
What else will I need besides the 4 struts, 4 shocks, 2 caster correction plates, and 2 spring spacers?

I assumed springs because you mentioned shocks, but not springs.

-Spike
 
K, fixed that. If anyone is up for helpin in the near future - let me know.

On the SLEE instructions page, is that for the J series lift? They never mention anything about extended brake lines - just swapping the parts over.
 
you might want to read the title of the pdf - it is for slee's 4" & 6" lift kit - it will give you an idea what can be involved in a lift install - you may want to include blocks and longer bumpstops - if you read page 3 it talks about brakelines

you should also read up on the brake proportion valve adjustment up in the 80's section

I am heading back to CA otherwise I could be involved
 
Ah I see, I see.

How do you extend the bumpstops?
 
Oh, and after I clicked the link, I clicked the link on the page for OLD MAN EMU suspension install...
 
Sure, you can buy my stock ones...how nice of you to offer!
 
Question....

Will I be needing these:

swayba1.jpg


Can you do the install without them, and if so, what would the drawback be?
 
Also, although the Slee site never mentioned the need for them - will I be needing a spring compressor tool....or will there be enough clearance to get the springs in without one?
 
You should be OK on the coil compression - sometimes you have to use a bar or small jack to lower the axle - make sure you watch your ABS line ( remove and loosen the clamps) and brake lines

You might need the blocks depending on your lift - they can be made as well
 
If I install the suspension without the blocks will the sway bar even attach, or would I need to leave it disconnected?

I attempted the stock bottlejack method to lower the axle, but it didn't seem like it wanted to do anything after about a 1/2", so I went and rented some coil spring compressors to try that.

I'm out working on it with the laptop in the garage now, so I'm sure I'll check back in shortly...
 
make sure the sway bars are disconnected too this will give you more travel to move the axle down - you should not need to do more than put a foot on it - IIRC take a look at what might be keeping it up - make sure you have the frame up high enough to make this droop in the axle happen easily - I am on for a bit more so send a message

I would not dissconnect the sway bar and drive it on the road
 
Well that didn't take long...

With the design of the coil spring and the bumpstops, I don't see how it would at all be possible to use the regular "in the spring" compressor tool.

Do I have to use the strut spring compressor, which basically has 2 pieces that you tighten on the outside of the spring?
 
Also, regarding the instructions...

I am using 2 - 4 ton jackstands. Its maybe a 4-5" height increase on the stands. The instructions say to jack up the PS axle and remove the tire then lower the axle down and remove the spring. Since I'm not a lift, will I have any better advantage removing BOTH front tires in getting the springs out....or is it best to leave the DS on when I want to remove the PS spring?

Step 2:
Now place the floor jack under the PS side of the front axle. Jack the axle just enough to get the wheel off the ground but not so much as to unload the frame from the jack stands. Remove the PS wheel. After removing the wheel lower the axle down slowly. Make sure you have enough clearance between the rotor and the floor so that you can push the axle down all the way to unseat the spring.

If you have enough clearance. repeat the above procedure for the DS. Once you have both wheels removed, reposition the jack to the center of the axle and raise the axle just enough to start compressing the shocks.

Step 3:
Remove the bolts holding the swaybar to the brackets just behind the axle. This will stop the driveshaft from pressing into the swaybar when the axle is lowered. The swaybar can be left loose at the back.
 
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