Need help with hood latch

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Joined
Sep 4, 2023
Threads
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Location
Henderson, NV
Researched already, can't seem to find anyone with this issue exactly. Adding pictures for clarity (hopefully)

My hood was working fine. I opened it last weekend to check some things and welhen I went to latch it back down, it just won't latch.

What doesn't make sense to meis the mechanism. The cable release works. In other words, when the cable is pulled from by the driver side handle, (see pic1) the latch will move the swivel aside and release the hold on the main tooth.

But when the latch is just sitting as in pic 2, the hold from the top just smashes into the red x. and bounces off.

What confuses me is that I never had to pull the cable in order to close the hood, but it seems that that's the only way now to get the swivel seen in pic 1 to open so that the main tooth can come down far enough to latch

But even that doesn't work!!!! is there some trick to setting g the cable a certain way or what.???.I'm at a loss.

my issue isn't related to a malfunctioning latch per se, because I bought a replacement brand new and have the same issue..I un-installed the latch and moved it up higher thinking that would help but it's the same issue..
wtf!

any insight appreciated

20240715_193700.jpg


20240715_193608.jpg
 
Is there anything else in the engine bay that could be keeping the hood from latching? Stray tools, oil can, cat, etc…
 
Researched already, can't seem to find anyone with this issue exactly. Adding pictures for clarity (hopefully)

My hood was working fine. I opened it last weekend to check some things and welhen I went to latch it back down, it just won't latch.

What doesn't make sense to meis the mechanism. The cable release works. In other words, when the cable is pulled from by the driver side handle, (see pic1) the latch will move the swivel aside and release the hold on the main tooth.

But when the latch is just sitting as in pic 2, the hold from the top just smashes into the red x. and bounces off.

What confuses me is that I never had to pull the cable in order to close the hood, but it seems that that's the only way now to get the swivel seen in pic 1 to open so that the main tooth can come down far enough to latch

But even that doesn't work!!!! is there some trick to setting g the cable a certain way or what.???.I'm at a loss.

my issue isn't related to a malfunctioning latch per se, because I bought a replacement brand new and have the same issue..I un-installed the latch and moved it up higher thinking that would help but it's the same issue..
wtf!

any insight appreciated

View attachment 3678513

View attachment 3678514
Typically there is only one spring.
The big spring holds it open when the hood is open.

What you are showing is that the latch is closing once the cable is released.

It would appear to me that this is about adjustment of the mechanism to the hood.

I would need to look at it closer to be sure.

Maybe pics from all sides?

Edited to remove content about two springs. I was incorrect.
 
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Is there anything else in the engine bay that could be keeping the hood from latching? Stray tools, oil can, cat, etc…
I thought there might be, so i removed both latches and it drops right down. So that cant be it, although it's a great guess
 
Typically there are two springs.
One holds it open.
One small one holds the cable latch in the closed position. The big spring holds it open when the hood is open.

What you are showing is that the latch is closing once the cable is released.
Do you have a broken spring or they are incorrectly located or the bolts are too tight?

I would need to look at it closer to be sure.

Maybe pics from all sides?
good question. both the old latch and the new one I ordered to replace it only have the one big spring in the pictures. There isn't another spring..except for one on tje secondary latch. So maybe I'm missing a spring? where does it attach to?
 
Typically there are two springs.
One holds it open.
One small one holds the cable latch in the closed position. The big spring holds it open when the hood is open.

What you are showing is that the latch is closing once the cable is released.
Do you have a broken spring or they are incorrectly located or the bolts are too tight?

I would need to look at it closer to be sure.

Maybe pics from all sides?
by bolts too tight, do you mean the 3 that attach the latch to the truck? cuz those are pretty tight..but don't see how that wpuld affect the latch from working..
 
Is the latch bar hitting the X? Or is it hitting off to the side?
Is this shiny spot from the latch bar making contact?
20240715_193608.jpg


I once adapted the same style of latches to secure doors on a tool trailer.
They are quite simple, but don't take much misalignment to stop them latching.

When the bar on the hood pushes the latch claw down, the spring pulls the locking pawl into place to secure the claw. (your gloves thumb is on the pawl & spring in your first pic)
The release cable pulls the pawl out of the way.

If you release the catch, can you operate it/ lock it by pushing a screw driver into the latch claw.

My guess is something is out of alignment. Possibly has been for a while, and just gotten to the point where its no longer gonna play.

If you can cycle the latch with a screw driver while it's on the bench, you have an aliment issue, not a latch issue.

Could be the vertical brace on the rad support, the rad support, or the hood is out of position, or pulling the latch out if position.

Has the vehicle ever had front end damage repaired?
 
Is the latch bar hitting the X? Or is it hitting off to the side?
Is this shiny spot from the latch bar making contact?
View attachment 3678682

I once adapted the same style of latches to secure doors on a tool trailer.
They are quite simple, but don't take much misalignment to stop them latching.

When the bar on the hood pushes the latch claw down, the spring pulls the locking pawl into place to secure the claw. (your gloves thumb is on the pawl & spring in your first pic)
The release cable pulls the pawl out of the way.

If you release the catch, can you operate it/ lock it by pushing a screw driver into the latch claw.

My guess is something is out of alignment. Possibly has been for a while, and just gotten to the point where its no longer gonna play.

If you can cycle the latch with a screw driver while it's on the bench, you have an aliment issue, not a latch issue.

Could be the vertical brace on the rad support, the rad support, or the hood is out of position, or pulling the latch out if position.

Has the vehicle ever had front end damage repaired?
thanks for the response!
The latch is definitely hitting the X and pushing the claw all the way down toward the bottom of the "U". The problem seems to be the pawl you refer to never cycles so the claw can never lock onto the tooth on the backside of the pawl.
This seems counterintuitive because in order for the pawl to move, the cable needs to be pulled..leading me to suspect the cable might need constant tension enough to pull the pawl out of the way, but not enough to release the lock...if that makes sense...

and yep, I can get the latch to.lock if I manually pull up.on the spring (replicating what the cable release does and shown in pic2) which pulls the pawl put of the way..then I can push down on the claw with a screw driver and it'll lock. but it will not lock unless I pull the pawl put of the way first..

Can you confirm the mechanism only needs that one big spring? I'm getting mixed info if a 2nd spring is missing..
 
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The locking mechanism should cycle freely without any cable tension.

My hood releases have always felt slightly slack when you pull the lever in the cab. Looking at mine just now, it has 3/16+ of slack cable at the latch.
I don't think you want constant tension on the release cable. But I also don't see that being a problem

The claw doesn't contact the pawl until the latch has close about 2/3 of the way. Is yours closing part way? Or not at all?

Of the two latches you have, are they both used?

The 80 series latch only has a single spring that always pulls the claw toward the released position, and pulls the pawl toward the latched position.

With a search, I can see substitute part numbers for latches that have two springs. One on the claw only, and one on the pawl only.
 
The locking mechanism should cycle freely without any cable tension.

My hood releases have always felt slightly slack when you pull the lever in the cab. Looking at mine just now, it has 3/16+ of slack cable at the latch.
I don't think you want constant tension on the release cable. But I also don't see that being a problem

The claw doesn't contact the pawl until the latch has close about 2/3 of the way. Is yours closing part way? Or not at all?

Of the two latches you have, are they both used?

The 80 series latch only has a single spring that always pulls the claw toward the released position, and pulls the pawl toward the latched position.

With a search, I can see substitute part numbers for latches that have two springs. One on the claw only, and one on the pawl only.
so I went back out today in the 120 degree heat and removed the original one again and confirmed that it WILL NOT latch unless I move the pawl outbofbthe way manually..it just won't slip by to lock when pushed down. but...

I confirmed that the new replacement I ordered WILL latch when pressed hard enough..so I put the new one back on.

Problem is that when installed either latch the hood still won't go down far enough to latch...and I dont know why. I'm gonna have to keep messing with alignment maybe..I think the heat expanded the materials and caused the whole issue..it's been very very very hot here in Las Vegas.

kinda strange that it was either always both a latch issue and an alignment issue..or maybe one..then the other
 
kinda strange that it was either always both a latch issue and an alignment issue..or maybe one..then the other

Could just be a bit of both.

Door locks can be a total pain in the butt.
A bit of wear and tear and then a bit of misalignment can be enough to cause havoc.
 
Researched already, can't seem to find anyone with this issue exactly. Adding pictures for clarity (hopefully)

My hood was working fine. I opened it last weekend to check some things and welhen I went to latch it back down, it just won't latch.

What doesn't make sense to meis the mechanism. The cable release works. In other words, when the cable is pulled from by the driver side handle, (see pic1) the latch will move the swivel aside and release the hold on the main tooth.

But when the latch is just sitting as in pic 2, the hold from the top just smashes into the red x. and bounces off.

What confuses me is that I never had to pull the cable in order to close the hood, but it seems that that's the only way now to get the swivel seen in pic 1 to open so that the main tooth can come down far enough to latch

But even that doesn't work!!!! is there some trick to setting g the cable a certain way or what.???.I'm at a loss.

my issue isn't related to a malfunctioning latch per se, because I bought a replacement brand new and have the same issue..I un-installed the latch and moved it up higher thinking that would help but it's the same issue..
wtf!

any insight appreciated

View attachment 3678513

View attachment 3678514
Did you get this figured out?

I was incorrect on there being two springs.

I took time and looked at mine and how it works. I was also thinking maybe you have too much grease on there and the latch isn't holding it down?

The arm that the cable pulls releases the part with the spring on it so it can push up the hood bar.

Otherwise it must be an alignment issue.
 
Did you get this figured out?

I was incorrect on there being two springs.

I took time and looked at mine and how it works. I was also thinking maybe you have too much grease on there and the latch isn't holding it down?

The arm that the cable pulls releases the part with the spring on it so it can push up the hood bar.

Otherwise it must be an alignment issue.
I did get it fixed. I ended up sliding my battery all the way to the left of the compartment when looking at the front of the truck. Seems like somehow the battery may have been preventing it from closing the extra micro meter it needed. I actually ran into the issue where it would latch, but then wouldn't open, so went through a bunch of crap there too. Ultimately raising the rubber stops to full height and lowering g the latch position seems to work for now. I find it crazy that the tiniest mi's adjustment can set the whole thing off..
 
A miss is a miss. Doesn't matter if it's out by 1mm, or out by 1"
Definitely more vexing to figure out when it's only 1mm though
 

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