Need help removing the distributor (1 Viewer)

[vegas702]

Have an '87 2F that I'm tearing down for overhaul in the future. I haven't been able to get the distributor out.
I rolled the shaft until the distributor pointer was at the #1 piston position. But still can't get it to lift out.
So - need to words of wisdom fellas.

 

[haryv]

ahh stuck distributor. fun fun. Usually it is the oring that gets stuck between the bore and the shaft itself. Try using a little heat and see if it loosens it.

 

[Spike Strip]

Gently tap the underside of the housing, or use a wood dowel from underneath and tap. Dissy will pop out. Bolt is out, yes ?

 

[klinetime574]

Try turning the engine over. And then tapping with a block of wood from below. Should come right out.

 

[vegas702]

I've reviewed the Haynes book for Land Cruiser 1980 through 1996. Not a great book, but gave me some basics. I've also reviewed some youtube videos.
I removed the all the bolts on or around the distributor.
As I mentioned . . . I've rotated the shaft so the pointer is toward the #1 piston position.
I just don't know what else to do.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

position of the dizzy is not a requisite for removal. There is a bolt, a single bolt that holds the dizzy to its mounting base. After this bolt is out, the only thing still keeping the dissy in the bore will be friction and maybe some rust/gunk...make sure the bolt is out and tell that thing to come to papa....


haynes has factory wiring diagrams but leave much to be desired with regard to the rest of it...

 

[vegas702]

Is this the bolt you are talking about?

Is this the bolt you are talking about?

 

[vegas702]

Thanks, I got it out

Should have followed Spike Strip's advice more closely.
A hammer and block of wood did the trick.

I'm REALLY on the learning curve here.

 

[TEXASYETI]

We all are, my friend!

 

[Spike Strip]

Yup, we all started as newborns with our Cruisers.

Glad ya got it out. Clean out the inside and make sure the Vac Advance is working and the advance plates are not rusted. In my sig line is a download for the 2F manual that has dissy diagrams and service.

 

[vegas702]

Thanks

 

[John1778]

so I just got my dizzy back on at what I thought was exactly the way I took it off, now I cant get it to start all the way and when it does I have to feather the gas to keep it alive and it will not get above about 5-700 RPM than dies in about 4 seconds. I was replacing the engine side cover gasket. Obviously something with the dizzy, anyone got any pointers?

 

[WHG423]

Follow the manual for setting timing. Aline the BB on the flywheel with the pointer with #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. Rotor button should be pointing at #1 plug wire location on dizzy.
It's a real trial and error process. I just went through learning how to do this myself. I will say, I got real good at pulling the distributor. Probably 20 times before I got it right. Just be patient.

Be sure oil pump shaft lines up too. You can stick a long screwdriver down in the hole to get the oil pump lined up properly. Good luck!

 

[John1778]

ok so I got most of that but explain "BB" and how am I suppose to see the flywheel, I assume that we are not talking about the flywheel near the clutch so which one? I did point the pointer under the distributor cap to the #1 on the cover and made sure the oil pin went in. I got it started now and my idle is a bit rough and at 500 RPM now, not sure if that is normal. I tried to set the timing by loosening the bolt on the base of the distributor and moving it slowly until the engine sounds smoothest. Idle Is rough up to about 1500RPM it sounds like a house fan at the exhaust till around 2000RPM then it sounds better than before up to 3k, didn't go over that as I'm afraid I might mess up the internals and I can't afford to fix anything like that. I'm also new to the whole timing set up so bear with me. Any pointers?

 

[Slow Left]

The 'BB' is one of two alignment marks that are stamped into the flywheel. The second alignment mark stamped into the flywheel is a line, about 2 inches from the 'BB'.
When you align the the line on the flywheel with the timing mark on the viewing window of the engine housing, then the first cylinder is at top dead center (TDC)...either in compression or exhaust stroke.
When you align the 'BB' on the flywheel with the timing mark on the viewing window of the engine housing, then the first cylinder is 7 degrees before top dead center (7* BTDC).

You want the the rotor under the distributor cap to point to the #1 wire on the distributor cap (the wire that leads to the #1 cylinder) when the 'BB' mark on the flywheel is aligned with the timing mark on the viewing window AND the #1 cylinder is in compression stroke (not exhaust stroke).

In this last image, you can see the 'BB' and TDC line marks on the flywheel, but they have been painted with white finger nail polish (easier to see).
If you want to do this, crawl under the vehicle (engine off, emergency brake on, tires choked, etc.), remove the flywheel cover (just several bolts) and then you should be able easily access the flywheel to do this.

 

[John1778]

How do I turn the flywheel with the engine in the truck? Thanks for the pictures and detailed instructions, I completely understand what has to be done now but am not sure on how to turn the flywheel to get it to TDC.

 

[tag3]

How do I turn the flywheel with the engine in the truck? Thanks for the pictures and detailed instructions, I completely understand what has to be done now but am not sure on how to turn the flywheel to get it to TDC.

Socket on the nut holding the pulley to the front of the engine.

 

[John1778]

oh, duh.. lol I knew that. And that is the reason why it is best to never do something on your own. you will probably forget something basic that you already knew.

 

[tag3]

oh, duh.. lol I knew that. And that is the reason why it is best to never do something on your own. you will probably forget something basic that you already knew.

A second set of eyes and a brain usually helps.

 

[John1778]

what size nut is that on there. I have a 32 mm but it wasn't big enough, that was the biggest I have.