Need help installing OME suspension Kit.

[MANUCHAO]

I just bought OME suspension kit Medium/Heavy Duty.
I have no previous experience and will start the job on the second week of June if not sooner.

I checked the FAQ section and found general information about suspension installation.
Anyone else knows or has documentation on how to do this lift upgrade install step by step?
I have a buddy that will lend me his airtools, but other than that this will be a "driveway adventure".

Thanks for any help or tips offered....

Cheers

 

[High Desert]

Check out the directions for installation that CCOT has for their HFS lift. Pretty straight forward. Go to their lift link, the instructions are linked there.

Not complete as far as OME shackles but gives a good outline of the proceedings.

I'm installing same lift now (OME et all) and mainly used these notes as a flow chart. Did the front in 4 hours alone.

 

[Team Zissou]

Check out the directions for installation that CCOT has for their HFS lift. Pretty straight forward. Go to their lift link, the instructions are linked there.

Not complete as far as OME shackles but gives a good outline of the proceedings.

I'm installing same lift now (OME et all) and mainly used these notes as a flow chart. Did the front in 4 hours alone.

With no previous experience, I personally would allot more than a weekend to be safe. I took about 3 weeks total, with no help whatsoever and really only one solid day of working, but that includes a shackle reversal and a couple extras.

Bottom line, it is a relatively straightforward installation that just requires some physical effort from you. Leave yourself enough time to do the job properly without requiring your rig back in service again.

 

[lovetoski]

I did my first ever lift on my 60 in a long weekend. I work slowly though... It is pretty physical, plus you are crawling all around on the ground and under the truck. A few notes:

Use BIG jacks. 6 ton min. Wide base is key to stability (and therefore safety).
Start soaking everything NOW in a penetrating oil. Re do every few days.
Removing the steering damper is the single hardest step. It takes a big puller.
Extra jacks are useful for moving the axle around.
Read some of the posts regarding replacing springs or shackles. Lots of different methods for getting bushings out. They can be a real pain.

HTH.

 

[High Desert]

Guess I need to clarify.

I've got a rust free rig. Undid the bolts and pulled the Hanger pins and the Shackle pins by hand. I've spent 4 hours on the front end but have not torqued down anything nor installed the swaybar extensions nor put the wheels back on. I'm not exactly ripping through this deal either. Did lots of homework, have power tools and a lift.

Still crawling around alot, doing it alone with no experience.
I put a rear shackle on the front, had to re-do, but had not tightened anything down so no big deal..

Didn't mean to lead anyone on about the ease, or not, of doing a lift..

do a corner at a time and loosen the u-bolts on the side your not doing so you can move the axel. Don't tighten up the u-bolts on the first corner cause you gotta do the other side and will need to move the axle again. do it all then tighten it all down.

 

[FJsixty2]

not to belittle the project, but on these vehicles a suspension swap is relatively easy. everything is exposed and you're actually looking at minimal tools. air is a big plus. if you happen to have a rust free vehicle, your job will go much easier. if you have some rust on the shackles bolts and/or u-bolts, start hitting them with PB Blaster or similar now. my steering stabilizer came off after a few whacks and a pickle fork. 6 ton jackstands are a good suggestion. you'll have aching back muscles that you didn't even know you had, but it's not that bad of a job. save yourself some aggravation and use all new fastener hardware. some might very well be reusable, but if you have trouble and have to cut something off, the new hardware is already in hand. good luck.

btw, since i was using most of my jackstands on my '47 project, i had to pick up a new set of jackstands. tractor supply (TSC) had an awesome price on a pair of 6 ton stands. might be worth looking into, if you have one in your area.

 

[MANUCHAO]

Sweeeeeet !!!

Thanks for all the great info guys.
Im lucky enough to have a rust free 60 too.
I'll look into the jack stands.
I'll try to document everything from start to finish with pics.

I already feel more cofident with suggestions ya'll provided.

Laters,

 

[calfj60]

where in so cal are you??? and If you need a hand shoot me a PM...

I have a big driveway and air tools...much easier

 

[philos1]

I'm also in LA and would be willing to hold your beer while helping turn wrenches, did mine in the driveway too, so I'd be happy to help out. I am also returning from Baja around that time, so I'll be around if you need the help.

 

[Dynosoar]

PM me if you want some help, late June would be better for me. I will still be recovering from the Baja 500 in mid June. It is an easy job, air tools help alot and I recomend a rachet strap to help locate the axels.

 

[MANUCHAO]

Wow. Can you feel the LC love ???

Thanks guys.
I'll sure get in touch with ya'll once I see when I can tackle this job.

Thanks a whole bunch !!

 

[dogboy2]

Haynes manual has a good walk-through description. FSM helps too and has torque specs which you will definitely want to install "correctly"....

many ways to skin a cat,
-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[Live to Ski]

I haven't done that mod yet, though I plan to in the future.

One of the issues I remember reading about is to make sure you have the correct springs on the correct side as I believe that OME has taken into account of the dreaded LC lean into the spring design.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You will do this in a day. Air tools are nice, but optional. Just be methodical, one corner at a time, and get through it. The most important tip is to re-torque the u-bolts at weekly intervals for a couple of months.

 

[MANUCHAO]

What about brake lines.
Im installing the 2 1/2 to 3" lift on my ride.
I was told I wont need brake lines.
Is this true?
Thanks......

 

[High Desert]

I just finished my OME lift, (11hrs working alone) The brake lines are okay but I almost pulled them and the diff. breather hose loose by letting the axle get too low from the frame. Was fooling around under there and just happened to look up and the brake line was pretty much holding the axle up. Yikes

I just kept my eye on it after that..duh

I'll post some photos later today 5/24/06 of the before and after.

Even with a lift I still used two floor jacks to move stuff around. Air is no big deal I used it to loosen up the bolts but not to put together the new stuff.

The lift was no big deal except saved time in that I lifted the rig up to clear the tires and did not have to mess with lifting (jacking) each end as I went along. I left it at the same level for the job. Used the floor jacks to move the axle and spring packs.

.. when doing the rear TAKE THE REAR DRIVE SHAFT ZERK FITTING OUT. Then the axle will move, When I took my zerk out the grease was under pressure already. It probably pumped a 1/3 cup of grease out as I moved the axle around.

This stuff is in most everybodys instructions..

 

[Tapage]

I just finished my OME lift, (11hrs working alone)

woouuu congrats dude .. next time call a budy with some :beers: to make it more easy ..

 

[zcruiser]

Let me know if you need any pics. I've got the same setup, tho it was installed by PO.

 

[lovetoski]

What about brake lines.
Im installing the 2 1/2 to 3" lift on my ride.
I was told I wont need brake lines.
Is this true?
Thanks......

You can get away with the stock brake lines, especially if you don't flex the axle. But, it's pushing it. Best practice is to replace with longer brake lines - they are an essential safety item after all. Remember to bleed the brakes afterwords.