So I have been fighting this vibration and noise at 65-75mph. I dont feel anything under 65. The vibration is only noticeable after you have been driving on the highway for about 10-15min. You can feel the vibration under your seat and in the gas pedal. It only does it when you first apply the gas or just about to let off the pedal. If your pushing on the gas you get no vibration and if your foot is off the gas pedal and your coasting you get no vibration. I have replaced all fluids, Front and rear drivelines with OEM, front wheel bearings have been done, rear end bearings have been done. I have pulled the front drive line and locked the center diff and the vibration is still there. I have had different sets of wheels and tires on there with the same vibration and noise present at speed. The vibration seemed to get worse after I replaced the Transmission mount with new oem. I have it at a second shop now and he called today and said he cant figure out the problem. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Need Help. 2002 LX470 vibration and noise at 65-75mph (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LXfan4492
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
On my 2000, I had similar vibes. I removed the rear driveshaft, locked my front hubs and took it for a drive. No vibes. Later I flipped the rear driveshaft 180 degrees (slip joint toward the front). That took 80% of the vibes away. For my year, I think the slip joint goes to the front.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the suggestion, Ill give it a try if it is facing the other way. I cant remember how its facing. Update: So I have the slip yoke closer to the transfer case. Not sure on a 2002 if thats the preferred direction.
Last edited:
firemanpig
SILVER Star
I had a vibration in my tacoma and could not find the source. It ended up being the rear driveshaft. It was unbalanced
I've been chasing a similar vibration in my 2004 LC. It starts about 65mph, fades away over 75. I've put in new CVs/axle flanges, new Matusba u-joints front & rear, front diff drop kit (has 2" lift), new tires (road force balanced), diff fluid replaced on both ends, re-checked torque on driveshaft bolts after a few hundred miles. Motor mounts & trans mount are next on my list.
I had the u-joints replaced at a local driveline shop, and they pulled/cleaned/lubed the slip yokes too. I marked both drivelines for alignment before removal, and the driveline tech also showed me how he marks them for alignment. But I didn't request that they check for balance, I didn't really know that was something to check. I had heard about pulling a shaft and using the center lock to test drive, but I was hesitant to get it up to speed with a driveshaft removed. From reading the posts above, I'm guessing that's not an issue over short distances. Are there any additional tips to know before pulling a driveshaft to test for vibration?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
I had the u-joints replaced at a local driveline shop, and they pulled/cleaned/lubed the slip yokes too. I marked both drivelines for alignment before removal, and the driveline tech also showed me how he marks them for alignment. But I didn't request that they check for balance, I didn't really know that was something to check. I had heard about pulling a shaft and using the center lock to test drive, but I was hesitant to get it up to speed with a driveshaft removed. From reading the posts above, I'm guessing that's not an issue over short distances. Are there any additional tips to know before pulling a driveshaft to test for vibration?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Follow up for anyone who might be chasing down driveline vibrations:
I pulled my propeller shafts and took them to a driveshaft specialist to have them checked for balance. While I was talking with the tech, he gave the yoke on one shaft a little wiggle and said "there's slop in that u-joint". They had maybe 1000 miles on them. He told me that it's alarming how often he finds manufacturing defects out of the box, having to go through several before he finds one in spec.
I had him replace all four so they were matching and check for balance. When I picked them up, he stated the balance on each shaft was perfect and no adjustments were needed. He also told me that he came across one u-joint that was bad out of the box while replacing mine. Total cost was $240.
Just got them reinstalled today and there was zero vibration on my test drive. Hopefully things stay that way.
Some tech details from FSM because I had to research them to be certain for my own work, and it might help someone who's learning how to care for their 2004 LC100:
Front propeller shaft bolt/nut torque spec: 59 ftlb.
Rear propeller shaft bolt/nut torque spec: 78 ftlb.
Propeller shafts orient with spline end towards the differential respectively.
I pulled my propeller shafts and took them to a driveshaft specialist to have them checked for balance. While I was talking with the tech, he gave the yoke on one shaft a little wiggle and said "there's slop in that u-joint". They had maybe 1000 miles on them. He told me that it's alarming how often he finds manufacturing defects out of the box, having to go through several before he finds one in spec.
I had him replace all four so they were matching and check for balance. When I picked them up, he stated the balance on each shaft was perfect and no adjustments were needed. He also told me that he came across one u-joint that was bad out of the box while replacing mine. Total cost was $240.
Just got them reinstalled today and there was zero vibration on my test drive. Hopefully things stay that way.
Some tech details from FSM because I had to research them to be certain for my own work, and it might help someone who's learning how to care for their 2004 LC100:
Front propeller shaft bolt/nut torque spec: 59 ftlb.
Rear propeller shaft bolt/nut torque spec: 78 ftlb.
Propeller shafts orient with spline end towards the differential respectively.
