Need advice for inexpencive paint job!

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Dec 25, 2010
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Guy's, I am repairing a FJ 60 ( I use him for a expedition truck ). The body was quite rusted out and I have welded a lot of sheet metal into door panels, fenders and so on. Origional the Cruiser was a perl tan (4E8) and i now need an inexpencive paint job ( want to match the colour cloce enough so i don't need to repaint the interior). However if I go with basecoat and clear coat, paint alone is over $ 200!! - So are there any other option? Please keep in mind this is not s " show truck" it will go to 3rd world counties and I also don't care to much about looks, just need to protect the metal!! ( And I am on a budget!)
Thank!!
 
Guy's, I am repairing a FJ 60 ( I use him for a expedition truck ). The body was quite rusted out and I have welded a lot of sheet metal into door panels, fenders and so on. Origional the Cruiser was a perl tan (4E8) and i now need an inexpencive paint job ( want to match the colour cloce enough so i don't need to repaint the interior). However if I go with basecoat and clear coat, paint alone is over $ 200!! - So are there any other option? Please keep in mind this is not s " show truck" it will go to 3rd world counties and I also don't care to much about looks, just need to protect the metal!! ( And I am on a budget!)
Thank!!

There are a couple of good threads on using Rust Stop paint available at Ace Hardware stores. It's tintable and can be computer color-matched.
Here's a link to one of the threads on this forum:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/182419-ace-tintable-rustoleum-product.html

P.S. A lot of the write-ups I've read recommend using the enamel hardener available from Tractor Supply with this paint.
 
Another paint that is great and low cost is LIC-40 PolyUrathane from Valspar. Its a single stage paint but is very high in solids, and very tough. I have gone away from the ACE paint in favor of this paint. A gallon with hardener is under 100 bucks. The color selection is decent and a paint supply house can match most colors with it. Try it out, you won't be dissappointed...
 
Paint job

Can you apply the Valspar over the ACE paint or do you need to sand off the ACE tintable before painting over this. I am nervous about how soft the ACE is.

Tom
 
Normaly catalized paint can shoot over any other catalized paint, but ACE is NOT catalized. Therefore, I would test a small area first to be sure. But I think It should be ok as I used LIC clear over ACE before and it was great! So LIC solid should be fine.
 
Can you apply the Valspar over the ACE paint or do you need to sand off the ACE tintable before painting over this. I am nervous about how soft the ACE is.

Tom
Normaly catalized paint can shoot over any other catalized paint, but ACE is NOT catalized.

Would the addition of hardener to ACE rust-stop make it a catalyzed paint and more suitable for use under another top coating?

Edit: The reason I ask is that I will be doing body work in stages and I was hoping to use Ace as a "shop coat" over the primer. Will probably top-coat with a single stage urethane.
 
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ACe is not A true catalized paint. The hardener does help but only a small amount. Again, I would try it out and see what happens, or just go with the LIC 40 Polyurathane. Its good stuff...
 
Valspar Dealer

Where did you get you Valspar. Did you ever get the code for the olive color with this paint. I am thinking about respraying my tub and hood since the ACE just not seem to be drying that hard. I have had water spots where it has gotting wet, scratches where the paint had dried for months already. Woudl like to cut my losses while I still have the hood, bib and fenders to still paint.

Thanks
Tom
 
Well, thats the trick. I cant get a toyota paint code for the valspar paint. (it may be available out there, but I havent found it yet)

What I do, is get the toyota paint chip book, and then start looking over the book with thousands of colors available from Valspar. Then I pick the closest match. The 653 code will be a PITA tho. Thats a rare bird...
 

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