Nav delete help with Metra 70-8113 Amplifier Integration Harness usage (1 Viewer)

[prwillard2]

I've deleted my nav and installed manual controls.

Wired up my amp integration harness with my pioneer AVH-W4500NEX head unit.

Everything powers up and turns on no issues.

However, I HAVE ZERO SOUND, no static, no nothing. Volume goes up and down, but doesn't do anything.

Stereo, amp, speakers working fine before exchange.

Can provide additional pics and video

 

[baggar11]

Is the ground wire still attached under the passenger seat?

 

[prwillard2]

Is the ground wire still attached under the passenger seat?

As far as I know, I haven't removed the passenger seat or touched anything under there.

 

[KershZ71]

Are the RCA connectors from the harness plugged into the back of your headunit? I can't see them in the picture. Also, it looks like you may need to heat your ground splice more until the solder runs to ensure a good connection. You can also tie your antenna wire into the amp wire so that your antenna still functions.

 

[prwillard2]

Are the RCA connectors from the harness plugged into the back of your headunit? I can't see them in the picture. Also, it looks like you may need to heat your ground splice more until the solder runs to ensure a good connection. You can also tie your antenna wire into the amp wire so that your antenna still functions.

Male RCA connectors from metra harness plugged into female connectors from head unit. Will heat the solder some more. Was able to tie the antenna into the main power switch per the instructions from my ground bypass.

Believe the issue is with the digital/analog power conversion for the amp, which the metra harness doesn't support. Have a Axxess TYTO-01 Wiring Interface shipping to my house today from Crutchfield, hoping that solves the issue. If it doesn't. I'll replace the whole amp and all speakers.

 

[KershZ71]

On my install, I took out the factory amp and just power the speakers through the headunit. (Metra makes a harness for this) I lost functionality of the rear sub, but I have no complaints about the quality of sound. If you go this route, you will want to upgrade your speakers to ones that are 4 ohm. You’ll have to re-pin the drivers speaker from the nav unit as well but it’s not too difficult and I can help out if you go this route.

 

[prwillard2]

On my install, I took out the factory amp and just power the speakers through the headunit. (Metra makes a harness for this) I lost functionality of the rear sub, but I have no complaints about the quality of sound. If you go this route, you will want to upgrade your speakers to ones that are 4 ohm. You’ll have to re-pin the drivers speaker from the nav unit as well but it’s not too difficult and I can help out if you go this route.

If I'm going to have to upgrade my speakers, I'll probably upgrade the amp, speakers, and woofer at the same time since i'll need to rip out the seat regardless.

If I direct wire the speakers, I will definately reach out.

 

[fblainen11]

If I'm going to have to upgrade my speakers, I'll probably upgrade the amp, speakers, and woofer at the same time since i'll need to rip out the seat regardless.

If I direct wire the speakers, I will definately reach out.

I pulled my factory amp and put a pioneer 9605 five channel amp.
You don't have to replace your speakers if you get an amp that is 2 ohm stable. The 9605 is 2 ohm stable.

Pulling the amp was the best thing I did. With everything aftermarket now troubleshooting is way easier and replacing broken parts is way easier. You'll have to run RCAs from dash to under seat and a new power wire through the firewall.

If you look in the Nav delete thread I have a few videos.

 

[prwillard2]

I pulled my factory amp and put a pioneer 9605 five channel amp.
You don't have to replace your speakers if you get an amp that is 2 ohm stable. The 9605 is 2 ohm stable.

Pulling the amp was the best thing I did. With everything aftermarket now troubleshooting is way easier and replacing broken parts is way easier. You'll have to run RCAs from dash to under seat and a new power wire through the firewall.

If you look in the Nav delete thread I have a few videos.

About to buy a pioneer 9705, looks like they're the same models.

 

[fblainen11]

About to buy a pioneer 9705, looks like they're the same models.

I think the 9705 is the newer version

Edit: it is not the newer version. My mistake. Looks like it is mostly just aesthetics.

A great amp. They pair well with Infinity Kappa speakers. The power of the amp and the rms wattage of the speakers go well together.

 

[Eyedaho]

About to buy a pioneer 9705, looks like they're the same models.

That's the one that I bought for my '99 with an aftermarket nav head unit, and it has worked out great so far. It really cleaned up the sound, and got rid of the popping and hissing. It drives my kicker door speakers great. I wired my two 2 ohm sub speakers in series, so it's 4 ohms on the single sub output. I think your sub is different on the later model though.

 

[prwillard2]

That's the one that I bought for my '99 with an aftermarket nav head unit, and it has worked out great so far. It really cleaned up the sound, and got rid of the popping and hissing. It drives my kicker door speakers great. I wired my two 2 ohm sub speakers in series, so it's 4 ohms on the single sub output. I think your sub is different on the later model though.

Did you use your factory Mark Levinson door speakers? Did you have to run new cables from the amp to the headunit and speakers?

 

[fblainen11]

Did you use your factory Mark Levinson door speakers? Did you have to run new cables from the amp to the headunit and speakers?

You shouldn't need to run new speaker wire for this application. Stock wires are fine. Lightest to darkest starting driver front, passenger front, driver rear, passenger rear.

 

[Eyedaho]

Did you use your factory Mark Levinson door speakers? Did you have to run new cables from the amp to the headunit and speakers?

I have aftermarket kicker speakers in the doors. I ran new RCA cables from the head unit to the amp, and ran a new power cable from the battery to the amp, and tied in a larger ground to the body near the amp. I was also able to use one of the original amplifier hold down brackets and drill/tap holes for it in the aluminum body of the new amp.