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SILVER Star
I installed a mahogany Nardi steering wheel last weekend, and tackled the wiring yesterday. The physical installation of the wheel is pretty straightforward, so this post will focus more on the wiring.
Parts
Nardi 390mm Black Aluminum and Mahogany Steering Wheel
MOMO 7715 Hub
Nardi Horn Retaining Ring
Toyota Horn Contact Pin 84312-26010
Tyco 174930-1 Connector
Start by disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery, waiting a few minutes, then removing the steering wheel, the clock spring, and the bracket that holds the lighting and wiper stalks. Only the stalk bracket will be reinstalled.
Because the clock spring is being removed, a completely different approach to the horn wiring is needed. The steering wheel hub includes a brass disc on the bottom of the hub to facilitate this, which can be seen in this picture
Before clock springs were common in cars, horn wiring was generally accomplished with brass discs on the bottom of the steering wheel, or steering wheel hub, and spring loaded contact pins in the steering column. Because the LX450 came with a clock spring, it doesn't have a contact pin in the steering column, so one needs to be added. Toyota part # 84312-26010 includes a contact pin, a spring, and a small section of wiring which attaches to the pin
The wiring needs to be extended for this installation
The shoulder on the pin and the spring limit the travel on one end of the pin and the wiring connector, once installed, limits the travel on the other end. However, the pin will need lateral stability. For that purpose, a ¼”-20 nylon bolt is cut to length, has the head shaved in width, and, most importantly, has a ⅛” hole drilled right down the center to facilitate the travel of the 3mm pin. This picture shows the modified bolt next to an original
Once the modifications to the bolt are finished, the stalk bracket needs to be modified to hold the bolt. A 13/64" hole is drilled in one very specific location on the bracket, this spot is the only location on the entire bracket that is flat on both the front and the back, doesn't interfere with anything else on the bracket, and is directly below the brass disc on the hub.
With the hole drilled, it needs to be tapped for ¼"-20 threads. The bracket is only about 2mm thick in this spot, so only a couple of threads will be tapped in, but that's enough, the bolt will only be stressed by the force that the tiny pin spring applies.
Note the somewhat tight clearances in the hole location
Post continued below
Parts
Nardi 390mm Black Aluminum and Mahogany Steering Wheel
MOMO 7715 Hub
Nardi Horn Retaining Ring
Toyota Horn Contact Pin 84312-26010
Tyco 174930-1 Connector
Start by disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery, waiting a few minutes, then removing the steering wheel, the clock spring, and the bracket that holds the lighting and wiper stalks. Only the stalk bracket will be reinstalled.
Because the clock spring is being removed, a completely different approach to the horn wiring is needed. The steering wheel hub includes a brass disc on the bottom of the hub to facilitate this, which can be seen in this picture
Before clock springs were common in cars, horn wiring was generally accomplished with brass discs on the bottom of the steering wheel, or steering wheel hub, and spring loaded contact pins in the steering column. Because the LX450 came with a clock spring, it doesn't have a contact pin in the steering column, so one needs to be added. Toyota part # 84312-26010 includes a contact pin, a spring, and a small section of wiring which attaches to the pin
The wiring needs to be extended for this installation
The shoulder on the pin and the spring limit the travel on one end of the pin and the wiring connector, once installed, limits the travel on the other end. However, the pin will need lateral stability. For that purpose, a ¼”-20 nylon bolt is cut to length, has the head shaved in width, and, most importantly, has a ⅛” hole drilled right down the center to facilitate the travel of the 3mm pin. This picture shows the modified bolt next to an original
Once the modifications to the bolt are finished, the stalk bracket needs to be modified to hold the bolt. A 13/64" hole is drilled in one very specific location on the bracket, this spot is the only location on the entire bracket that is flat on both the front and the back, doesn't interfere with anything else on the bracket, and is directly below the brass disc on the hub.
With the hole drilled, it needs to be tapped for ¼"-20 threads. The bracket is only about 2mm thick in this spot, so only a couple of threads will be tapped in, but that's enough, the bolt will only be stressed by the force that the tiny pin spring applies.
Note the somewhat tight clearances in the hole location
Post continued below
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