My: Transfer Case Mounted Disc Parking Brake is useless (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 27, 2003
Threads
210
Messages
894
Location
Berthoud Colorado
Website
www.w2m.com
man,
what the heck, thing won't hold on any kind of hill...?

do I need to configure a diff. e-brake pull, can't get much leverage with the streight pull....

any ideas..
 
is this the kit you have?
IMGP6922.JPG
 
the trucks use 3 cables to operate the stck parking brake.
the first cable is hooked to a 'Z' shaped thing.
that Z thing increases the leverage.
maybe you can visit a junkyard and get one off a truck and use it on your cruizer
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
WristPin, I have a feeling this is on his mini-truck.

Razor, take some pics so we can see what you're working with, then maybe we can make some suggestions.

well good.
cuz the pic i got that from is bigrocksoffroad.com and the kit pictured is one they sell for the trucks. i mean minis. i dont like callin them minis.
 
On my (mini monster), I will take some pics.

thx.
 
here are a few pics.......thx for the input !! almost time to start a few motor mods for more power.

EDIT: just found the reciept, came from Sky Manufacturing.
Here is the kit, it is new:
diskebrake2.jpg



My truck:
ebrake1.jpg

ebrake2.jpg
ebrake1.jpg
ebrake2.jpg
 
Last edited:
If you manually manipulate the parking brake lever by hand, does the caliper actually clamp down on the disc?


Is your cable stretching?


When was the last time that it worked properly?


Have you adjusted it lately/Does it have any adjustment built into it?
 
In my case my e-brake on reard sisk never stop the cruiser as e-brake perse .. so TSM said it is coz I need to go with custom cables .. right now I thought the e-brake with disk require much more power ( press ) to hold the cruiser ..
 
try using one of the holes closer to the tcase. it should add some leverage and hlep hold the truck.
Shane
 
binding?

It looks to me like the lever might be binding on the threaded bit inside the clevis . Have you tried watching it with a buddy actuating it?
 
when you use the first hole on the pull arm you gotta have 0 thread coming out the back of clevis and the arm still rubs( we grind a little to get clearance)..
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom