My teardrop (ish) build V1.0

smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
Heading out to the TDS event. I haven't been to that in 28 years. Not going to get much done structurally. Been doing small things after work. Got the main power feeds and rear tail light wiring layed out. The wiring runs through the frame. Using gland nuts and removable flanges to seal everything. Installed a wiring junction box in the front and need to install one in the rear. This will help organize my wiring and make it easier if I need to add in something later.
I'll get pictures of the layout later.
 

ntsqd

technerd
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Messages
5,910
Location
Upper So. CA
 
 
First did it on the C.U.T. project trailer and now I plan to do so on every future trailer; put a trailer lights socket on/in the tongue so that the connector can be unplugged and stored out of the weather while the trailer is in storage. The reason that we did it originally on the C.U.T. was so that we could make jumpers for each different tow rig's trailer lights connector as we expected that many friends would be wanting to borrow it. Trailer itself got a 7 pin RV type connector. The cost of use if a jumper doesn't exist for the borrower's socket is to make up the jumper and leave it in the tongue box when done.
 

smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
It's been a while since i've updated this. Had some surgery then when I was ready to start again the virus thing hit and im sitting at home. I need to order my door and windows so I can start my wall framing as well as the aluminum for the walls.

For now, I'm just doing small things without spending money.

trailer 3-24.jpg

Here it is so far. All four leveling jacks on


front block.jpg

Front junction box. I have the main harness gland nut installed in the frame, will add in another once I get the framing up. The front box will be wired near the end of the project.


tank install.jpg

Water tank in, pump mounted, hoses ran through the frame. The gland nut on the right will be inside the wall and used for the pump wiring.


rear block.jpg

Rear junction block and hose frame exit. The junction block here is rear lights, brakes and a 12 gauge power feed for whatever may pop up later.
The blue/white hose is the tank fill and the other two are pressure and vent.

That's all for now.
 
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smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
Soooo,
The virus thing slowed my build down so between that and my surgery I figure I've lost two months build time.
Got the basic outside frame tacked together, fridge slide made and basic floor cut and just set in. I need to get my door and windows so I can finalize my sides. I will be building the rear storage and compartment doors next.

trailer 5-1.jpg

I'm thinking of remaking the front with a radius and not a 45 degree. All I need to do is figure out how to bend square tube.

That's all for now.

Edit: just realized I left my magnets in the photo. See if you can spot all 5 in the picture. Hint : 3 different types.
 

ntsqd

technerd
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Messages
5,910
Location
Upper So. CA
 
 
Find a big steel vendor, they usually can bend square & rectangular tubing in a large radius. In Oxnard, CA that vendor is Gold Coast Steel, but there has to be someone closer to you. IMS maybe?
 

smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
The IMS by me will only cut. Monday I think I'm going to hit up some rod iron companies. Most just make square panels but I may find one that bends.
 

smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
Masking tape is your friend.

The pictures kinda poor but, this is what I spent today doing. Taped my door, window, cabinets and rear storage area openings. This way I can sit inside and look out as well as climb in and out the door. Being a visual person, using tape in this manner gives me a new perspective.

Right off the bat, the standard door size (26x36) was going to be an issue. I kept hitting my head and sometimes I caught my foot on the opening edge while climbing in and out. I changed the size to 28x38. Perfect.
The windows ended up 21x14. I have a small bucket to use as a chair. The window size is good but when I get them I need to move them up about an inch.
Passenger side, rear I have my fridge slide out and over the top of the fridge, I will be storing my folding table and camp stove. That door I'm going to make. Rear access storage figured out with door size and inside rear cabinets shelves drawn out.
After doing this I decided to move my inside rear wall back three inch's.

tape 1.jpg

Looking through the door you see the driver side window. That kind of throws the picture off.
 

smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
Been working on rear storage brackets and shelf's.
Learned a few things.
1. I am so not a cabinet maker.
2. Plywood is not straight.
3. Metal is easier to work with.
4. needed more wood and a little more steel to finish.

With that aside, I have the rear storage/shelf area almost done (need 1 more sheet of plywood) and I will be weatherproofing the wood. The inside got an upper rear storage compartment just needing the sides done.
As for the rest of the trailer I need to do finish welding on the new rear framework (storage), paint all that, run the wiring, order the windows/door and skin it. The doors are going to be the issue. I can get the windows and complete everything but the passenger side. That's where the door will be. The company who would be making the door had shut down for two months and are dealing with back orders. They cant give me a lead time yet.

Picture time

inside shelf 1.jpg

This shows the inside storage area (top of picture). 56" across, 12" high and 12" deep. This will get doors once the inside is skinned.


rear shelf 1.jpg

Here is the rear. The inside shelving comes into the top of this. On the bottom left is a small area that fits two of my storage box's perfectly. This had to be made small because my tank fill hose comes up on the left and the slider tracks come over on the right. The left area will probably get either adjustable shelving and/or some kind of slide out drawer/basket/whatever. Right side above the fridge will be three shelves. Lowest one is for my folding table, next up is where my stove will store and third...not sure. Couldn't see wasting the space.
The right side door will open up and the opening will be about an inch below lowest shelf. The left side will open out to the left and be almost full length.

I started another thread on venting the fridge enclosure. Looking for ideas while i'm at this stage.
 
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smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
Finished the storage area, dissembled it then waterproofed the wood. Windows came in today and got the doors ordered. I'm going to do the wiring and skin the driver side (no door there). On the home stretch finally. It started raining today so I called it early and didn't get any pictures. I'll assemble the storage and get some shots.
 

smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
Started back with my job and back to work on my trailer.

Chassis is 90% wired. Only rear lights left. Have windows but should have doors in a week or two. When the doors get here is when I will be skinning the outside. Water tank is plumbed and waiting on doors before mounting the filter. I will be making an access hatch for easy filter replacement once those are installed.


Wiring1.jpg

Wiring layed out and run through the frame. I ran out of electrical tape while I was doing this. Had to hold the wires together with masking tape. Got more today and will be re-wrapping some of it

Grommet.jpg

I used plastic grommets wherever the wire passed through the tube. All of the wiring is encased in split loom. The few pieces that are not now will be when everything is final.

tire mount2.jpg

Made the spare tire mount today. I'm not too good at free handing a circle with my plasma cutter. It's close enough. When its done, the tire carrier will bolt to the side. I will be able to extend it out a little if I go to a bigger tire in the future.

Tire mount1.jpg


Back side.

That's it for now.
 

smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
Now that I'm getting closer, here's the concept pictures i started out with. You will get an idea what I'm working towards. The XXXXXX on the sides will be painted diamond plate.

Driver side color.jpg


passenger side color.jpg


Rear COLOR.jpg
 

smritte

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
199
Location
Ontario Ca
 
Got some more work done today but only got two pictures.
In the beginning of this build, I wanted to try out one of the Ark XO trailer jack's. The jack on my M-100 is a standard one wheel jack. Off road it was a struggle to move it around on the jack. I had read alot about the Ark jack and ordered one for this build. While I was shopping , I saw one that looks just like it for cheaper. I've been burned by copies and didn't go that route.
Today I finished modding my Ark jack. I'm not too happy with it overall and needed to make it work properly. The sloppiness is about the same as cheaper jacks and it was too short. Those are easily dealt with or ignored. My big issue was how poorly the wheel turned. I had already extended it 4 inch's and today fixed its poor turning. If I knew I was going to have to mod it, I would have gotten the cheap one.

Thrust Bearings.jpg

I drilled out the wheel hub and installed a bronze bushing. Removed the plastic washer and installed thrust bearings. The original design used a plastic (teflon?) washer in between the jack and wheel hub. It didn't like changing directions and was a bit sloppy. The thrust bearings can handle several thousand pounds but will have to be cleaned and re-greased occasionally. I can do this when I re-grease the hubs each year. Now it turns very easy.

Doors 1.jpg

Got driver and passenger side's, inside and outside cut out. I only had time to get the door and one window installed. These are in temporarily and will be removed so I can add in some bracing and prime the wood. I didn't get a pic of the other side when I completed it, just this side.

Looking at this picture, you can see that my fender is almost hitting my tire. The springs should have been more than enough. I believe the company that sold these over rated them. This is something I will deal with after i'm done.
 
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