My rotors are warped AGAIN, can they be trued? Will drilled/slotted rotors help?

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So do you guys think I should replace my rotors? The odd part is they don't create any pulsing when cold, only when heated up. If indeed my calipers are sticking, would rebuilding them allow my rotor to cool enough between stops to prevent heat buildup and thus warping?

I don't like to halfass things, but rotors ain't cheap and I'm on a tight budget. I will be going in to inspect and possibly replace the brass spindle bushings and repack the wheel bearings, so I will be in there anyway, but if I don't need to spend the $120 on rotors, then so much the better.

So what I'm suggesting I try is this:

Rebuild calipers
Replace pads(still undecided on what variety; 80, 100, performance, etc)
Inspect/replace brass bushing
Repack/tighten wheel bearings
Repack birfs
Flush brake fluid

Opinions? Do you really think new brakelines would make a difference, and/or that they are due for replacement?

Thanks everyone.

Ary

On mine I replaced all the stock brakelines with the braided/teflon linning type and there was a sensible improvement on braking feeling.

Also I washed througly the system with alcohol and later replaced the fluid with racing 600º temp limit fluid, and once in a while when driving down fast I still overheat the rotors and need to wait parked up to 20 minutes till the pedal feels hard again. Nobody has been able to solve this, and it happened since I bought the cruiser brand new !!!!!
 
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has anyone removed the back plate or at least drilled it for more venting?
 
Removing the backing plate is a bad idea unless you cut out the middle of it and install that. You need the shim there.


You guys that are overheating your brakes need to get another vehicle. This is a 3 ton utility vehicle. It's not a race car.

That or your calipers are dragging.

My rotors lasted 135,000 miles. I had to change them out because a caliper seized. 9,000 miles later and they're fine.

Truing rotors out of the box is a damn silly thing.
 
I drive with heavy feet. My brakes used to overheat/fade under very hard braking but I never warped the stock rotors. In fact, I was changing my pads every 15-20k miles and never once had my rotors turned for the 130k miles they lasted. They wore flat.

The Powerstop crossdrilled rotors I am now running with the heavy duty semi metallic Hawk pads take everything I throw at them only stopping is better. They are still smooth and I have about 50% pad left after 50k miles.
 
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All stock - system maintained since new by yours truly. I've had a couple panic stops while towing over the years that have had the rotors smoking. Did manage to warp a rotor years ago and turned out that front caliper was dragging. Rebuilt both fronts for $22 from Cdan and all's been good for years.

DougM
 
Here's some info passed on from the BMW crowd.

BMW's are (or at least were in the '80s) notorious for rotor warp,
and because of the lightweight suspension members anything that
went wrong showed up right away.

The bottom line on BMW rotor warp was that it wasn't the heat
that caused warp. With everything correctly setup, you could run
your daily driver HARD at the track for a weekend, and nothing
would warp.

BUT...if the wheel lugs were not torqued correctly, and especially
EVENLY, the uneven stress under the stress releaving ability of
high heat would warp the rotors. Even braking hard to a stop light,
and then sitting there for a minute with the rotors being clamped
in one spot and cooling unevenly could maybe get you.

I have no idea if this has anything to do with Landcruiser rotor warping.
It's a possibility. In any case - torque your lugs nice and even. It's better.

BTW, my rotors are warped and the wife is complaining :-(
 
So I was having my tires rotated and balanced yesterday(hey it was free), and while they had the wheels off I was inspecting the pads. All of the pads are worn evenly and the same across all 4 pads.

Wouldn't a stuck caliper 'cause abnormal wear of some variety on at least one pad? :confused:
 
I vote for a good flush....does not seem that your caliper is sticking....with bigger tires and increase of weight I would think that chances for warping would be greater....also x2 on the reply about uneven torquing on the lug nuts especially if done by an impact wrench....Discount Tire claims this excellerates warpage.....2 cents
 
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I read once that uneven torque on lug nuts could aid in warping rotors. I have no idea if its true, but I read it. Figured it was at least worth mentioning to see if anyone can confirm/deny that claim.


Thats a FACT JACK.......!
 
Most rotors are warped from the production manufacturing process.......thats right boys....... OEM right out of the box and warped.

Dude where do you get your rotors? Cdan is pulling out voodoo pins as we speak. Better get ready to be making a parts order.

Had by who?

They were not toyota rotors.

Maybe they have made improvements with 80 rotors but I doubt it.

1. whoever sold you that

2. think about that point you made it enuf said

3. everything about the 80 is improved:D

Truing rotors out of the box is a damn silly thing.

X2..........:flipoff2: (I hate it when you force me to agree with you)


Oh and in answer to the actual thread my 02: CHANGE DRIVERS!
 
Arya, I have had the same prob a few times. Do you use 4lo and 1st gear and minimal braking on the steep mountain roads? Or any gearing to control your speed instead of relying solely on your brakes? Whatever speed you may be traveling this works to take it easy on the brakes and to have better control on steep decents at any speed.

I suspect mine was from over braking/hot brake rotors and then submerging into cold mountain streams. Does that make any sense?

Rotors are cheaper than tranny.... :)
 
I guess I should prolly try and remake my point since I have been slightly miss quoted,

when I said OEM rotors I was speeking in general. all manufacturers (not from experience with 80 rotors)

The way it was explained to me, was that they (all rotors) are turned very quickly and very hot in a pure production enviroment and during cooling they warp, but are still within tolerences.
large capacity (brake fluid) front calipers generate heat in the brake lines because even very slight in-out caliper movement causes fliud movement in the small diameter brake lines behind them, (causing fluid failure). With perfectly straight rotors you have no fluid movement apart from the initial pedal apllication.

When i stated that I doubt they have not improved 80 rotors, I was refering to the manufacturing process, not the rotors.

I only turned the rotors (OEM toyota) that I replaced on my Fj40, they were not perfect, and I drove it for many years afterward.

I maybe should not have said anything since it was not directly related to an 80 series LC............just tring to share one of my life lessons..............call me crazy and a damn silly fool,

You guys are the ones with brake problems mine work perfect:flipoff2: .......:D
 
I think only a few have problems like that, my brakes work fine, and I NEVER turn them.....

The original poster is a self proclaimed hot rodder, that is why he keeps gooning up his brakes.....
 

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