My next electrical gremlin (2 Viewers)

[Tofudebeest]

I rolled the driver's window down (well, not "rolled" but used the switch), and it will not go back up. All other windows work normally (sluggish, but otherwise normal).

When I hit the switch to have the driver's window go down (and it is already all the way down) my volt meter in the dash indicates that juice is being applied. Also, it does make the familiar click noises. When I push the switch up, I get the same sounds, but no movement of the volt meter needle (at all).

I visually inspected the green/brown box (relay) bolted to the lower right inside of the door, which must be the thing that makes the driver's window roll down automatically, and it looks to be OK, no arc burn spots, no burnt smell, nothing unusual. I can't get to the motor itself yet, but when I do, I will send 12v to it and see what happens there, but for now, I had to unbolt the window track assembly so I could push my window up from inside and then duct taped it in place.

I suppose the motor is shot(?).

Anyone know if there's a testing procedure for the motor (other than just sending 12v to it?


I do know about this thread, (and I intend to do this mod), but it doesn't speak to my specific issue. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/261058-power-windows-door-locks-permanent-fix.html

 

[cruiser88]

check the switch make sure it works.........it reverses polarity

 

[John McVicker]

I'm not really certain, but I have had my master switch panel off/apart several times & your description kinda sounds like the little rocker not making contact when you pust the 'up' button.

If you have had yours apart...remember those tiny silver contact 'rockers'. The one for the driver window may be dirty..fallen out of place etc.

And if you haven't had it apart b/4, be careful when you open it up for a look see. No springs will pop/fly out, but those rockers can get jumbled all up.

Good luck, John

 

[Tofudebeest]

Just found this, and it seems to describe my issues spot-on:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/362868-fj62-drivers-power-window-autodown-relay-fix.html


And got 4 (just in case) here:
https://www.alliedelec.com/search/searchresults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&Ntt=R46-5D12-12


Lots of the electronic stores on-line have minimum order sizes. Allied does not.

 

[slcfj62]

Yeah, sounds like the relay alright. FYI, the "Power window and door locks permanent fix" thread addresses the other three windows, and not the drivers window, because the drivers window already has the relays in the green box. I would recommend to anyone to get these relays replaced as a maintenance item before they fail. Relays are only good for so many make/break cycles, and after 20 years, their number is up. The relays are under $5 each, so it is a cheap pre-emptive fix.

 

[imabigbangkindaguy]

Do the Relay Mod's, I did, and WOW!!, for the first time I heard and saw my power door locks, and the window relay mods were surprisingly simple. I was really nervous to do mine, as I generally never do any electrical work on a truck, for fear I will only make things worse. But man it so much more simple than i expected, plus with SLCFJ62's amazing step by step write and part numbers with links to order parts, you can't go wrong!!!

Thanks SLCFJ62!!

goodluck TOFUDEBEEST, only took me two hours to get it done.

 

[Tofudebeest]

I fully intend to. And thanks for the words of support.

I got the relays in the mail, waiting for me when I got home. I hit the shed, yanked the green box out, desoldered the two relays, soldered in the new, put it back together (with tape, those tabs really are as delicate as he said!), reassembled everything, and tried it out. Magic. Just saved at least $100. $12 fix, 15 minute repair. Cool. Thank you slcfj62!

 

[sandbridge]

thanks for posting this years ago. This did the trick and the drivers side window is now GTG.