My first 62.. All is well, i think

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Fullsizeyota

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Jun 18, 2005
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Well i'm a new owner of a 88 FJ62... Er my wife is.


I drove it home from the PO's house, which is about 350 miles. Everything was good. It ran good, i had good fuel mileage, i am in heaven. We have cleaned it up, put new brakes/rotors, packed the front end, cleaned the crap out of everything. changed the fluids, everything looked good.

Its bone stock with 258k miles on it. I have service records back to '96:D

It, like the past two cruisers i have had, has issues. The speedometer is loud.. it squeels and its consistant to your current speed. Is this a known speedo issue or a cable issue?

My idle is around 1200 rpms. I'm going to see about the idle screw and adjust the valves tonight. the valves sound a little loose.

i didnt pay any attention to the idle till i read it should be around 650 rpms.

I also noticed when i changed the oil, i had the oil cap off of the valve cover, it idled terribly when removed, is this normal? i can't say i've ever noticed this on any other vehicle i have owned but maybe its a normal thing?

If the idle screw isn't the culprit, what is? normal vaccum leak? my CEL doesn't come on

anyway, i didn't *really* get into the 60/62s till i bought one.. Now i think it's the best thing ever. :D but i'm still partial to pigs, 40's and minis... We will deffinatly have fun with this 62. It's what the wife wanted, ac, ps, and an auto.. She's happy so this is that much more fun
 
Speedo issue sounds like the cable to me, lube it up?

No idle screw, something else is amiss. Mine idled at ~1000 for a few months, fixed itself when I was checking the throttle position sensor, think it was just a loose connection. Other possibilities are the idle control valve (in front of the throttle body), or issues with the A/C idle up.

Removing your oil cap introduces a vacuum leak via the PCV valve.

HTH, and welcome to the section.
 
First, congrats. Ya, they are great rigs, I occasionally miss mine. At least until I drive past a gas station...

Anyway, it sounds like a problem with the speedo cable. It can be lubed, it's not hard actually. If you crawl underneath, find where the cable connects to the transfer case rear output (big cable housing, about the size of a gargen hose, with a heat-resistant shield around it). Unscrew the collar, pull it off (gently). Then grab the center of the cable, the part that spins, see if it pulls out. It should come out without too much resistance. Slide it out, then smear it with a good grease, like a white lithium-based grease. Slide it back in, spinning as you go. When you get about 2' left, I like to chuck the end in a cordless drill and give it a good spin, slowly putting it back into the housing. Be careful at the very end, you are seating the end of the cable into the speedo head. Put it all back together, see if the noise is gone. If not, then the noise is in the speedo itself.

Adjust the valves, then see what the idle does. Are you sure the AC is not turned on?

The crankcase in the Toyota EFI system has a positive pressure on it, so when you remove the oil fill cap it will idle very rough, mine would actually refuse to run. My pickup is the same way, this is normal.

Good luck, post some pics!
 
would direction of rotation matter when re-seating the speedo cable? This is something I need to do too!
 
I'll snap some pics a little later...

When on my drive home, the ac worked fine. I only used it for maybe 20-30 minutes, if that long. when i turned the truck off, it was fine. When i hoped back into the truck and hit the ac switch to show my wife that it worked, the belt just squeeled. I think it seized the pump maybe? it worked fine then nothing at all. I guess the ac still could have something to do with the high idle, but i doubt it. As soon as i engage the ac pump it squeels. Is there a high idle relay that could be stuck in the "on" position?

I'll try lubin the speedo cable, i was gonna pull the dash apart so thanks for the tip!
 
The Golden Screw functions as an idle screw. The engine is a closed system and anytime there is a small vacuum leak the engine will serve as a diagnostic tool by idling too fast until the leak is fixed. A very common leak can be found on the ribbed rubber hose between the air cleaner and directly attached to the engine's throttle body. That you noticed a major change in engine idle smoothness with the oil filler cap off indicates what the major leak symptoms are. Also check the manual throttle knob to make sure it isn't pulled out a hair - it can be a fooler. Proper adjustment of the throttle cable and transmission kickdown cable at the same throttle body should be checked. The Golden Screw is the large screw on the throttle body facing you as you stand in front of the truck and turning it clockwise should reduce the idle speed.
Welcome to the world of FJ62s. They rock.
 
as a side note: the idle pull knob to the right of the steering column feels funny. I can't ilde up unless i push the pedal down, then pull the knob. the knob feels really squishy like i get no feed back or have no feel of what the knob is doing. I meant to check the throttle cable but haven't
 
overhanger said:
The Golden Screw functions as an idle screw. The engine is a closed system and anytime there is a small vacuum leak the engine will serve as a diagnostic tool by idling too fast until the leak is fixed. A very common leak can be found on the ribbed rubber hose between the air cleaner and directly attached to the engine's throttle body. That you noticed a major change in engine idle smoothness with the oil filler cap off indicates what the major leak symptoms are. Also check the manual throttle knob to make sure it isn't pulled out a hair - it can be a fooler. Proper adjustment of the throttle cable and transmission kickdown cable at the same throttle body should be checked. The Golden Screw is the large screw on the throttle body facing you as you stand in front of the truck and turning it clockwise should reduce the idle speed.
Welcome to the world of FJ62s. They rock.
Click to expand...


we must have been typing at the same time:doh:

How do i check/adjust the TV cable?? i think its out of wack becuase sometimes i have to mash, and i mean pedal to the floor to get it to kick down gears
 
We all highly recommend that you make your first big truck purchase a Toyota FSM - not a Haynes or Chiltons, although are better than nothing. Some think the Chiltons make wonderful TP! :hillbilly: The FSM is indespensible for just this sort of adjustment. Locate the kickdown cable at the engine throttle body and tighten the 14mm locknut so that the cable has no freeplay when you pull the bare inner cable with your fingers. Pulling out the slack will at least get you some kickdown with a little less effort and fine tuning the adjustment can be done to where your preference of downshift can be acheived. 1/4 turn of the cable adjustment can make a noticeable difference.
 
your 62 got good fuel mileage?!! There's something seriously wrong with your truck! :)
 
Fullsizeyota said:
You wouldnt beleive me if i told you what i got.. So i'll just keep to myself. :D
Click to expand...

Your alt must be overcharging the battery, kicking out some hydrogen which gets sucked into the intake and gives that 163% boost in gas milage we hear sooooooo much about. ;p
 
Actually the only reason you are having a few issues is because you have not posted pics of your rig. This is how the Cruiser Gods operate!!
 
Lubed the speedo cable like KLF mentioned.. It was super easy, only took about 5 minutes. Now my speedo doesn't bounce around or make noise.. Thanks!

Now, I adjusted the idle screw in all the way.. Till it stopped. It dropped the rpms down to about 1K.

I backed it out slightly then i sprayed carb cleaner around all of the air filter connectons, pcv valve, vacuum lines.. everything. Nothing made the rpms change, almost like there is no vacuum leak.. This could be a pain. I sprayed everywhere.

I adjusted the kick down cable, it was super loose. This thing is already a ton better to drive. For a total of 10 minutes, it drives noticably better. Sweet
 
FSM troubleshooting for high idle

check accelerator linkage
check a/c idle up circuit
check for codes
check idle speed control system
check throttle position sensor
check fuel pressure
check cold start injector
check injectors
check EFI circuit

If you have checked for binds in the throttle cable already, I would check for codes with a paper clip, then check the throttle body (clean), tps (check connection and then check readings) and the ISC valve infront of the throttle body.

Let us know what you need details on (and order and FSM....)
 
RocDoc, I pulled the intake tube off of the throttle body. The inside was soaked with oil. I cleared it out with some carb cleaner and a rag. The butterfly valve was filthy so i hosed it out and wiped it down.

Whats the ISC valve? where can i get a FSM? the dealer? how much are they?
 
I bought mine at SOR, I know other places have them for cheaper, hopefully someone else will chime in.

The Idle Speed Control valve (part 150 in the diagram) is a valve the moves between 4(?) positions to vary the amount of air getting into the intake manifold at idle, thus varying the speed of the idle. I believe they can get gummy/crudded up. A quick check it to listen to it when someone else turns the vehicle off. It should click immediately after shut down. If it doesn't, you may need to pull it and clean it.

I've never pulled mine, so I am not sure what is involved in cleaning it. The manual states you should drain the coolant first, but I think as long as you don't disconnect the coolant line, you should be okay. Maybe running some carb cleaner through the air feed into the valve would do the trick?

I wish I had my camera at home, I would just take pics of the relevant pages in the FSM.
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