Heads up this is a long and detailed read.
There are a number of good threads out on the net for turboing the 1hz engine. Each is better than others in their own way. I thought that I'd do a write up myself for any of those who are interested in doing as I have done. Now this build thread may take some as it's being done on a student budget by a hobbyist mechanic but I'll try to keep it up to date as I go.
Parts which I have acquired with price guide (AUD):
- 1HDT airbox $50
- A Supra ct26 7mgte turbo with a 1HZ exhaust manifold with an adapter plate to suite 1HDT turbo. This kit came with all plumbing (intake pipes and dump pipe) and lines needed to run on a 1Hz (minus water lines) and a good quality EGT gauge $800
- A dodgy standard ct26 turbo from a 1hdt (requiring rebuild) $250
- Cheap nasty oil catch can off ebay $30
- A sump with oil return line fitting pre-welded in $50
- Aeroflow dash fittings + braided oil line to be used as an oil return line $100
- An Aeroflow tube and fin 600x300x76mm FMIC $200 (Aeroflow 600x300x76 Alloy Intercooler Polished with 3" Inlet Outlet AF90-1000)
- Exhaust manifold gasket 1hz $17 (engines australia)
- Full three inch exhaust system (xforce, from best mufflers.com) $700
- 4x4 concepts dual gauge pillar pod $150
- Standard cheaper dash tri-gauge pod $6
Parts yet to acquire:
- Decent boost gauge $80
- Oil pressure gauge (to be plumbed in to turbo oil supply line) $35-$80
- Plumbing for the FMIC (2.5inch stainless) (price yet to be determined)
- Turbo factory water supply lines $100 (Kalamunda Toyota)
- T piece for oil supply pressure gauge (price unknown)
- Steel wool to fill the oil catch can
- Dual air temp gauge (sensor just after turbo and just after intercooler) $50-$100
- Air to fuel ratio gauge (one day when funds permit) $350
In recent history my 1hz has had:
- A full recondition of the cooling system in the process of determining that the viscous fan hub was not functioning. Includes a reconditioned 3 row copper and brass radiator (currently out for repairs).
- Digital water temp gauge running off two sensors through a 6 pin switch so that both readings (taken from top and bottom radiator hoses) can be see on the one gauge.
- Cheap voltage gauges for each battery
Here's a pic or two of my beast
The plan:
- Before I go pumping big boost numbers into my 80 I'm getting the bottom end freshened up with some tri metal bearings and fresh conrod bolts (was going to do this myself, but have decided that given my lack of experience it will be cheaper to pay someone to do this than to have a motor rebuilt).
- While this is being done the new sump I have will be attached (this will have a pre welded dash fitting (12an) with a female so that the car can be driven until the turbo set up is ready.
- By this time I hope to have sorted out my plumbing for the FMIC (will cut and tack weld the tube together then have it welded up by a mate)
- Once the rest of the parts needed have been acquired I will be installing the turbo myself. I will be using factory water supply lines and will be tapping into the oil supply on the intake side rear of the black. However I have not decided what route to go down when it comes to tweaking the fuel pump. At this stage all parts purchased can be used on a 1HDT as well as a 1HZ. The plan is to one day swap the head, pistons, conrods, fuel pump, lines and injectors over to 1HDT spec. For this reason I am not jumping to have my 1hz pump rebuilt/reconditioned with a boost compensator.
- Knowing that it is heat caused by overfueling which kills the 1HZ-T I am taking every precaution (ie FMIC) and will also be tuning my viscous fan hub coupling for better efficiency (Tuning and Understanding your Toyota Viscous Fan Clutch). I have also been toying with the idea of a secondary w2a intercooler to come in after the FMIC.
What I've done so far:
- I have nearly finished building the ct26 7m hybrid (still sussing out how to set up the wastegate actuator.
Seen below is the Supra ct26 intake housing (right) and the 1hdt ct26 intake (left)
I will be using the supra CHRA, core and intake and attaching the 1hdt ct26 hot side (exhaust housing). In the pic below the one stamped 58020 is the 1hdt one and the 42010 is the supra.
The supra exhaust housing obviously being larger, having been replaced by the smaller 1hdt one should in theory and in some practice (as others have experienced) generate more boost (I have done a fair bit of research into this, if you have any questions feel free to ask and I'll answer as best I can).
Pictured below is the adapter plate used on the 1HZ manifold to suite the turbo.
Pictured below is the modified wastegate actuator that was previously being run on the 7mgte supra ct26 whilst it was run on a 105 cruiser.
This does not appear to fit the turbo currently.
The exhaust housing requires some encouragement in order to be removed for those intending to try this themselves.
You can see my dodgy oil catch can in the picture below
This is the current fitting on the 1hz sump: It will be replaced with a weld on 12an dash fitting.
- I am currently taking measurements for the intercooler piping. I have been unable to find anyones measurements for custom FMIC piping on the net, so I will post results that I have found once I have them. At this point I am considering investing in a MIG welder to do the work myself.
There are a number of good threads out on the net for turboing the 1hz engine. Each is better than others in their own way. I thought that I'd do a write up myself for any of those who are interested in doing as I have done. Now this build thread may take some as it's being done on a student budget by a hobbyist mechanic but I'll try to keep it up to date as I go.
Parts which I have acquired with price guide (AUD):
- 1HDT airbox $50
- A Supra ct26 7mgte turbo with a 1HZ exhaust manifold with an adapter plate to suite 1HDT turbo. This kit came with all plumbing (intake pipes and dump pipe) and lines needed to run on a 1Hz (minus water lines) and a good quality EGT gauge $800
- A dodgy standard ct26 turbo from a 1hdt (requiring rebuild) $250
- Cheap nasty oil catch can off ebay $30
- A sump with oil return line fitting pre-welded in $50
- Aeroflow dash fittings + braided oil line to be used as an oil return line $100
- An Aeroflow tube and fin 600x300x76mm FMIC $200 (Aeroflow 600x300x76 Alloy Intercooler Polished with 3" Inlet Outlet AF90-1000)
- Exhaust manifold gasket 1hz $17 (engines australia)
- Full three inch exhaust system (xforce, from best mufflers.com) $700
- 4x4 concepts dual gauge pillar pod $150
- Standard cheaper dash tri-gauge pod $6
Parts yet to acquire:
- Decent boost gauge $80
- Oil pressure gauge (to be plumbed in to turbo oil supply line) $35-$80
- Plumbing for the FMIC (2.5inch stainless) (price yet to be determined)
- Turbo factory water supply lines $100 (Kalamunda Toyota)
- T piece for oil supply pressure gauge (price unknown)
- Steel wool to fill the oil catch can
- Dual air temp gauge (sensor just after turbo and just after intercooler) $50-$100
- Air to fuel ratio gauge (one day when funds permit) $350
In recent history my 1hz has had:
- A full recondition of the cooling system in the process of determining that the viscous fan hub was not functioning. Includes a reconditioned 3 row copper and brass radiator (currently out for repairs).
- Digital water temp gauge running off two sensors through a 6 pin switch so that both readings (taken from top and bottom radiator hoses) can be see on the one gauge.
- Cheap voltage gauges for each battery
Here's a pic or two of my beast
The plan:
- Before I go pumping big boost numbers into my 80 I'm getting the bottom end freshened up with some tri metal bearings and fresh conrod bolts (was going to do this myself, but have decided that given my lack of experience it will be cheaper to pay someone to do this than to have a motor rebuilt).
- While this is being done the new sump I have will be attached (this will have a pre welded dash fitting (12an) with a female so that the car can be driven until the turbo set up is ready.
- By this time I hope to have sorted out my plumbing for the FMIC (will cut and tack weld the tube together then have it welded up by a mate)
- Once the rest of the parts needed have been acquired I will be installing the turbo myself. I will be using factory water supply lines and will be tapping into the oil supply on the intake side rear of the black. However I have not decided what route to go down when it comes to tweaking the fuel pump. At this stage all parts purchased can be used on a 1HDT as well as a 1HZ. The plan is to one day swap the head, pistons, conrods, fuel pump, lines and injectors over to 1HDT spec. For this reason I am not jumping to have my 1hz pump rebuilt/reconditioned with a boost compensator.
- Knowing that it is heat caused by overfueling which kills the 1HZ-T I am taking every precaution (ie FMIC) and will also be tuning my viscous fan hub coupling for better efficiency (Tuning and Understanding your Toyota Viscous Fan Clutch). I have also been toying with the idea of a secondary w2a intercooler to come in after the FMIC.
What I've done so far:
- I have nearly finished building the ct26 7m hybrid (still sussing out how to set up the wastegate actuator.
Seen below is the Supra ct26 intake housing (right) and the 1hdt ct26 intake (left)
I will be using the supra CHRA, core and intake and attaching the 1hdt ct26 hot side (exhaust housing). In the pic below the one stamped 58020 is the 1hdt one and the 42010 is the supra.
The supra exhaust housing obviously being larger, having been replaced by the smaller 1hdt one should in theory and in some practice (as others have experienced) generate more boost (I have done a fair bit of research into this, if you have any questions feel free to ask and I'll answer as best I can).
Pictured below is the adapter plate used on the 1HZ manifold to suite the turbo.
Pictured below is the modified wastegate actuator that was previously being run on the 7mgte supra ct26 whilst it was run on a 105 cruiser.
This does not appear to fit the turbo currently.
The exhaust housing requires some encouragement in order to be removed for those intending to try this themselves.
You can see my dodgy oil catch can in the picture below
This is the current fitting on the 1hz sump: It will be replaced with a weld on 12an dash fitting.
- I am currently taking measurements for the intercooler piping. I have been unable to find anyones measurements for custom FMIC piping on the net, so I will post results that I have found once I have them. At this point I am considering investing in a MIG welder to do the work myself.
