My Cruiser is on CRACK.

[LittleRock80]

And this "crack" is going to kill my budget I'm aftraid. I have the dreaded crack in the block below the middle freeze plug--how many mudders have experienced this now?? My A/C has been cutting off (temp guage didn't move but a hair) in slow traffic and drivethrus and the like--couldn't figure it out. New compressor, clutch, expansion valve. Blows cold when it's blowing. Got several new components on the cooling system--PM'd it when I got it with a flush and put in Toy red. Nothing ever on the garage floor to indicate a leak of any kind. I started reading old posts on the subject and came across a few folks having problems with leaking freez plugs (seemingly) that turned out to be cracks in the block. SURE ENOUGH, a little investigation, engine degreaser, and a scraped-up forearm later and I have a hair-line fracture an inch or so long!!

I reluctantly poured some stop-leak (in the top hose-not the radiator) and so far, she's still STILL LEAKING like a siv (sp?) I'm so bummed. I love this lc.

Any new options or suggestions under the sun?

I'll post pics tom, but they look the same as others that are floating around.

Thanks for reading the long post--

Justin

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Find a used motor. Sorry.

 

[john_eckels]

If you run out of options and are ready to give up on the engine, you may want to try smearing some JB-Weld over the crack. There are some document cases where it has worked. You are only out a few dollars if it dosen't work.


Engine Blocks

 

[LittleRock80]

Find a used motor. Sorry.

Say it ain't so!!!

If I were to get it welded, is this a MIG, TIG? Think it would warp the freeze plug hole above it bad enough that I'd never get another plug to seal again?

But it runs so good......

JWP

 

[LittleRock80]

If you run out of options and are ready to give up on the engine, you may want to try smearing some JB-Weld over the crack. There are some document cases where it has worked. You are only out a few dollars if it dosen't work.


Engine Blocks

I picked some of that up to today. Then I thought against it due to all the hot/cold, hot/cold plus the constant attack on the JB from the coolant coming through the crack. But, like you said, what have I got to lose?

Thanks,

JWP

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Say it ain't so!!!

If I were to get it welded, is this a MIG, TIG? Think it would warp the freeze plug hole above it bad enough that I'd never get another plug to seal again?

But it runs so good......

JWP

You may be able to get it brazed with some brass filler, but I would just get a new motor. I've seen used 1Fz's for under $1000. That's got to be your best bet.

 

[LittleRock80]

You may be able to get it brazed with some brass filler, but I would just get a new motor. I've seen used 1Fz's for under $1000. That's got to be your best bet.

That crossed my mind too. Pretty tight quarters in there though.... either have to unbolt a bunch of items up top or start removing body panels. Hate to pull the engine unless another (different) one is going back in there.

JWP

 

[MyCrush]

You might find this site helpful for LC parts/engines.
Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80, FZJ80 and Lexus LX450 Parts For Sale

No affiliation w/ me....just one of my many bookmarks for this disease I have.

Good Luck

 

[Elbert]

there are no fixes to a cracked engine block... replacement is the only solution.

 

[OGBeno]

You can find 1FZ blocks pretty easily these days and as Cruiserdrew stated for well below $1000--I betcha you could find one for less than $500 (not including shipping).

 

[LittleRock80]

there are no fixes to a cracked engine block... replacement is the only solution.

Unfortunately, replacement is out of the question. I know these things are not cheap to own and I accept that, but I'm going to try and get my money's worth out of this "bullet proof" engine "that routinely goes 300,000 miles without anything but regular maintainence". Now I know how the HG guys feel--only I can still drive mine as long as I check the coolant level every other day.

No, I've got a lot of talented family and friends at my disposal (thankfully) from tool and die, machinists, and air craft and heavy equipement mechanics. I'm going to unbolt everything until we have enough room to clearly get at the crack and attempt a solid repair (I'll def post pics of before and after). And in the end, if it still doesn't work, it'll sit until I find the right replacement. I refuse to give up on her. I'm addicted!

Thanks for all the comments--keep 'em coming.

Justin

 

[cruiserdan]

there are no fixes to a cracked engine block... replacement is the only solution.

Not an absolute.

There is a process called "metal-stitching" whereby the crack is stop-drilled at each end and then the holes get threaded. At this point threaded rod gets screwed in. the crack is then drilled so that there is a space of about 1/2 the diameter of the hole in between each of the holes. Threaded rods are then installed into those holes. The next step is to drill holes in the spaces in between the previously-installed rods and then thread those holes and install threaded rods, producing an inter-locking repair.

 

[LittleRock80]

Not an absolute.

There is a process called "metal-stitching" whereby the crack is stop-drilled at each end and then the holes get threaded. At this point threaded rod gets screwed in. the crack is then drilled so that there is a space of about 1/2 the diameter of the hole in between each of the holes. Threaded rods are then installed into those holes. The next step is to drill holes in the spaces in between the previously-installed rods and then thread those holes and install threaded rods, producing an inter-locking repair.

Dan,

That's very interesting, I'll definitely do some research on this process.

Thanks,
Justin

 

[reconranger]

Not an absolute.

There is a process called "metal-stitching" whereby the crack is stop-drilled at each end and then the holes get threaded. At this point threaded rod gets screwed in. the crack is then drilled so that there is a space of about 1/2 the diameter of the hole in between each of the holes. Threaded rods are then installed into those holes. The next step is to drill holes in the spaces in between the previously-installed rods and then thread those holes and install threaded rods, producing an inter-locking repair.

Dan,

That's very interesting, I'll definitely do some research on this process.

Thanks,
Justin

I believe I saw a thread here about this procedure for a cracked head as well.

Viable alternative to a replacement.

Good Luck!

 

[huckthehaus]

I believe I saw a thread here about this procedure for a cracked head as well.

Viable alternative to a replacement.

Good Luck!

used on heavy duty diesels all the time

 

[Elbert]

ok...metal stitching...

is it cost effective to use on a stock OEM engine (light duty car / truck)? and is this a 100% solution?

 

[LittleRock80]

Well I really appreciate all the responses to my little Crack Thread ;p. Just so this thread has some pics (before my own before and after pictures of the repair), I'm "stealing" these pics from NewbieNate and his thread back in '06. My crack (from what I can tell) is not on the outer ring of the casting around the freeze plug like the first pic, it's directly directly below it, exactly where Nate has cleaned the crud off his block (don't think his crack extended down that far). Not sure who's situation was worse--or maybe they suck equally as bad? I'm thinking his might have been worse since it's closer to the "fragile?" freeze plug? Here is the thread reference: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/116636-leaking-freeze-plug.html

Thanks again,

Justin

 

[drifter]

Old Chevy's had the same problem. we would use a big over head winch put the truck over on it side an weld it with nickle rod. it works good.

 

[LittleRock80]

Drifter:

That sounds interesting. Not sure I follow about putting the "truck on over on it's side".

Thanks,
Justin

 

[LittleRock80]

Well Mudders,

I talked with my local Cruiser Shop, The Cruiser Company The Cruiser Company Home Page which is conveniently located 2 miles down from my parents out in the sticks outside Little Rock, about my problem. When I showed Bobby, the owner, he said that he's personally worked on 3 80's with this same problem, 2 of them with the cracks near rear freezeplug (which he said is harder to repair, naturally) instead of the middle F.P. So, what was his fix? It's similar/same to what a few others have tried/suggested:

1) Drain the coolant out of the truck and let sit for 2 days so as to be as dry as possible.
2) Clean the crack and the area around it with a solvent and then wire brush the area.
3) Take a Dremel or grinder and cut a shallow grove following the line of the crack and extend a little north and south of the crack's end(s).
4) J-B WELD the Crack.
5) Let truck sit for a 2 days to make sure the J-B cures.
6) Refill truck with coolant and drive as before.

Anyone have anything to add??

Bobby said so far he's 3/3 on the J-B weld repairs, meaning the trucks are still going with no active coolant leaks, so this weekend I'm going to go for it. I'll probably drain the oil and pull the filter so I have more room to get at the crack.

I'd love to have a more "Permanent" fix because this is always going to be in the back of my mind (especially when I'm towing or pushing the truck hard) that I have bubble gum holding the coolant in my block.