My 89 won't run, need a second opinion

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New Hampshire
Or as many opinions as I can get. Truck is an 89 22re with 200k on it. It's been retired to yard use only for last few years. Yesterday I was plowing my driveway, and it just quit. No warning, no sputtering, just poof, dead. I go to start it and it just cranks over, doesn't catch. The last time I had plowed the exhaust blew apart right where the O2 sensor is. It had blown apart, but the sensor was still in place. Well I looked under there, and the sensor was dangling. The white and one of the black wires had been melted by the exhaust. So I unplugged it and threw it in the truck. Cranked it again, still nothing not a big surprise. I noticed though that when the ignition is on, the check engine light doesn't come on. I don't recall if it used to or not. On both my OBDII trucks it comes on with the key on, then goes out when the truck starts. So at this point I pull the intake boot off and spray starting fluid into the throttle body. I get in the truck and it fires up, then sputters out when the starting fluid is gone. So I know I have spark and suspect the fuel pump. This morning I unbolted the bed, jacked up the pass. side with my high lift, and pulled the original 200k fuel pump. I couldn't seem to verify with my meter if I was actually getting power to it or not through the harness. The signal changed to a constant reading with the key on, but it wasn't showning 12 volts. But with the pump out of the truck and connected to jumper cables, all I could get was sparks from the battery end. No noise from the pump. So I suspect it's toast. But i'm still concerned with the lack of check engine light and not getting 12 volts to the pump. I did fix the wires to the sensor, and I ghetto-fabbed the exhaust back together so the sensor is securely mounted again. Any other ideas? Or should a pump fix it?
 
Read this first: Toyota 4Runner and Pickup: Cheap Tricks

There should only be 12 volts to the pump when the engine is turning, or the jumper is in place.... So no volts at the pump is normal.

If the pump is bad, then... time for a new one... Do any other lights on the dash come on with the key? I think the charge and break lights should... The no CEL could just be a bad bulb if you're lucky.

Now the bad news... If the pump went bad, then I think the pressure would bleed off and there would be some sputtering maybe... maybe not. However, if the ecu took a dump, and cut power to the injectors, then you'd have a dead truck right there.... That compounded with the no CEL and the melted (read: Grounded) O2 wires, could mean a fried ECU. I'll hope for a bad pump though. :D Best of Luck!
 
Try checking every fuse both under the hood and in the driver footwell. This happened to me when snow wheeling and all it turned out to be was a darn fuse blew when it shorted the o2 sensor wires. I can't remember which one it blew but check them all.
 
I'll have to get out there and check the fuses. I'm now thinking maybe I should test the pump again too. It did kind of just die like a fuse blew. And I certainly did short out the 02 sensor.

UPDATE: Well my daughter finally went down for a nap so I was able to go check the fuses. Sure enough the 15 amp fuse for the EFI was blown. I put a new one in and the check engine light comes on with the ignition on now. So I then made some real test leads and properly tested the fuel pump. It works too. Now I have to put it back in the tank, and put a new piece of fuel line on too to fix the leak I created taking it apart. Gotta love rust. I really wish I had checked the fuses before I pulled the pump. I'll have to put it back together later this week. It's about 10 degrees out, and it'll be dark soon. Oh well, thanks for the input guys.
 
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Yeah, you didn't need to pull the pump out to test it, you can do it with a paper clip.

Having a bad or disconnecte O2 sensor won't keep the truck from starting, and it may or may not turn on the CEL, although I believe it is supposed to. My son's '92 Corolla hasn't had an O2 sensor in it for over a year now, and the CEL is not on. We did a code test just to make sure, and the engine ECU says everything is normal.

Hopeully you'll won't keep popping the EFI fuse, and the truck will start right up now.
 
Don't you hate it when you do a whole lot of unecessary work and the problem turns out to be something simple? Man I do that stuff all the time.:D
 
I jacked up the bed again this morning and put the pump back in, went to napa and got 4 feet of high pressure fuel hose to replace the section of hard line I broke in front of the tank, and got it all back together. It fired right up, and I finished plowing my driveway after I got the bed bolted back on. I hate it when I misdiagnose stuff and cause all kinds of extra work. But at least I didn't buy a fuel pump for $130 I couldn't return before realizing it! KLF- a bad or disconnected sensor won't keep an engine from running. But when the harness going to it melts on the exhaust and shorts out it apparently blows the EFI fuse. Which certainly does keep the truck from running.
 
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