My 80 series and her problems

[TowingTriplets]

I love my 80 but I can't wait until she is no longer my daily.

Current issues.

Water driverside floorboard:
The sunroof is sealed off.
Original windshield, resealed only a month ago, thought that solved the issue. It did not.
No sign of water in A pillar.
Someone suggested the gutter seals. Which Is a daunting task.

Brake lights don't work with headlights on:
Tried taking out new bulbs with oem.
Tried unplugging aftermarket headlights.
Replaced brake light switch. So I may just take it to get looked at.

A/c squel when on:
Just may need to tighten something, sounds like a pulley.

Weird almost flat tire sound from front, worse when I brake: have to take a wheels off, may just take it in to get fully diagnosed.

Cant stop getting conpliments:
I seriously get weird looks when I either get in/out or on the road. Often get honked at followed by a thumbs up. Oh well

Adding a 200 series next year so that I can start doing road trips with the wife and kiddos.

 

[voodu3]

post here they can probably help

200-Series Cruisers

2008-2021 : Lexus LX570 and 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (J200)

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[OffRoadScott]

post here they can probably help

200-Series Cruisers

2008-2021 : Lexus LX570 and 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (J200)

forum.ih8mud.com

Why would he go there for help with an 80 series?

His last line says he his adding a 200 series next year, but is seeking help with his 80 now.

 

[voodu3]

I thought the post was a joke. Apologies

Why would he go there for help with an 80 series?

His last line says he his adding a 200 series next year, but is seeking help with his 80 now.

 

[OffRoadScott]

To @TowingTriplets you say that the sunroof is sealed off. How is it sealed? I used gorilla tape years ago and it is now starting to leak again. The reason I sealed mine off, the sunroof would not close completely so I had to do something.

Your brake issue might be pads or bearings. I would jack the front end up and check for any play in the front wheels. If I remember correctly it is at the 12/6 o'clock position. I could be wrong and if I am someone correct me.

The AC issue might be as you stated a loose belt. It could be the pulley but if it does it when the AC is turned on more than likely the belt is slipping.

 

[NelsonCruiser]

Your taillight issue is likely bad grounds on the bulb socket. I had the same thing on mine which I solved by cutting and stripping the ground wire and folding it over the socket so that the bulb holds it in. It’s not the proper way to solve its but it’s been over a year of trouble free bumps and jumps. A new tail light harness could also be sourced. A quick Google search shows several options.

 

[TowingTriplets]

To @TowingTriplets you say that the sunroof is sealed off. How is it sealed? I used gorilla tape years ago and it is now starting to leak again. The reason I sealed mine off, the sunroof would not close completely so I had to do something.

Your brake issue might be pads or bearings. I would jack the front end up and check for any play in the front wheels. If I remember correctly it is at the 12/6 o'clock position. I could be wrong and if I am someone correct me.

The AC issue might be as you stated a loose belt. It could be the pulley but if it does it when the AC is turned on more than likely the belt is slipping.

I used outside, weatherproof silicon. Gorilla silicone to be exact. Went over it 3 times, letting each time dry before another layer.

I hope it's just the brakes, just have to find time. And if I'm not mistaken, are the bearing the same as birfields on this platform?

I'll have to take it in to get the ac looked at.

My biggest concern is the headlight on but no brakes.

 

[TowingTriplets]

Your taillight issue is likely bad grounds on the bulb socket. I had the same thing on mine which I solved by cutting and stripping the ground wire and folding it over the socket so that the bulb holds it in. It’s not the proper way to solve its but it’s been over a year of trouble free bumps and jumps. A new tail light harness could also be sourced. A quick Google search shows several options.

I'll have to dig out my digital voltage meter to check it. And I'll look into the harness. Do you happen to know if it's a lengthy process to pull and replace the harness?

 

[OffRoadScott]

I used outside, weatherproof silicon. Gorilla silicone to be exact. Went over it 3 times, letting each time dry before another layer.

I hope it's just the brakes, just have to find time. And if I'm not mistaken, are the bearing the same as birfields on this platform?

I'll have to take it in to get the ac looked at.

My biggest concern is the headlight on but no brakes.

No the bearings are different from the birfs. You have your hub that contains wheel bearings and the nuts that hold tension on the bearings.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I'll have to dig out my digital voltage meter to check it. And I'll look into the harness. Do you happen to know if it's a lengthy process to pull and replace the harness?

There is a plug under the 80 that is part of the brake light harness you might want to check that too and make sure it is making contact.

 

[TowingTriplets]

There is a plug under the 80 that is part of the brake light harness you might want to check that too and make sure it is making contact.

Thank you for the information. Learning more and more everyday.

 

[TowingTriplets]

No the bearings are different from the birfs. You have your hub that contains wheel bearings and the nuts that hold tension on the bearings.

Got it, I just watched a video on a rear bearing replacement. I'll have to watch one for the front. Shoot if that's the case I may as well do a rotor uograde.

 

[TowingTriplets]

I thought the post was a joke. Apologies

I would never joke about the issues I have with my vehicles. I will admit, the last bit was a joke.

 

[NelsonCruiser]

Also try pulling the brake light bulb out of the taillight housing and see if both filaments illuminate when pressing the brake with the headlights off. Both filaments should come on when the brake is pressed without headlights being on. The ground fixed this for me when I had this symptom. I second checking the plug underneath the truck.

 

[TowingTriplets]

Also try pulling the brake light bulb out of the taillight housing and see if both filaments illuminate when pressing the brake with the headlights off. Both filaments should come on when the brake is pressed without headlights being on. The ground fixed this for me when I had this symptom. I second checking the plug underneath the truck.

I'll make sure to try out you all are suggesting. I'll have to pull up the wiring diagram to locate the harness underneath exactly. But that'll have to wait until it isn't raining all day here.

 

[Malleus]

There is a very easy solution for wet floorboards: pull one of the two body screws holding the rear corner of the fender onto the body. You only need one. That will drain the pocket that isn't draining now, until you actually find the leak.

When you replaced the windshield gasket, was it replaced with a Toyota gasket, and installed using the procedure in the FSM? If not, that's why it leaks. When the windshield was removed to install a new gasket, was any care taken to remove the residue and/or trash under the gasket, on top of the body? Most installers will not take the time to do this, even very good ones. If the body face that forms the gasket seat doesn't look like it did when it was on the assembly line, it'll leak.

The sunroof seal isn't actually necessary to seal against water ingress, IMO, it's a dust seal. If it was really supposed to be watertight, Toyota would not have put drains in every corner. However, if the drain tubes are not really clean, they will eventually fill up enough that water will back up into the sunroof pan, and that will leak. The only way to really clean those tubes, and you really only need to clean the front two, is to remove them and run a brush through them. Yes, you can run string trimmer line in them, but it won't clean them, it'll only clear them.

The long term solution to leaking roof drains is to replace the front drain tubes with rear drain tubes, and run them though one of the body mount holes that secure the front fender trailing edge. This is the solution Toyota finally used to fix the problem on later models.

To be absolutely certain you have the leaks fixed, you need to remove the dash and hose the roof and windshield down, after you've fixed the problem(s). With the dash out, you will immediately see where the leak(s) is/are. I'd bet real money your firewall is rusted from the leakage, and you'd be better served treating that while you're fixing the leaks, than ignoring it.

This sounds like a lot of work, but it can be done in a weekend, provided you have the parts.

 

[TowingTriplets]

There is a very easy solution for wet floorboards: pull one of the two body screws holding the rear corner of the fender onto the body. You only need one. That will drain the pocket that isn't draining now, until you actually find the leak.

When you replaced the windshield gasket, was it replaced with a Toyota gasket, and installed using the procedure in the FSM? If not, that's why it leaks. When the windshield was removed to install a new gasket, was any care taken to remove the residue and/or trash under the gasket, on top of the body? Most installers will not take the time to do this, even very good ones. If the body face that forms the gasket seat doesn't look like it did when it was on the assembly line, it'll leak.

The sunroof seal isn't actually necessary to seal against water ingress, IMO, it's a dust seal. If it was really supposed to be watertight, Toyota would not have put drains in every corner. However, if the drain tubes are not really clean, they will eventually fill up enough that water will back up into the sunroof pan, and that will leak. The only way to really clean those tubes, and you really only need to clean the front two, is to remove them and run a brush through them. Yes, you can run string trimmer line in them, but it won't clean them, it'll only clear them.

The long term solution to leaking roof drains is to replace the front drain tubes with rear drain tubes, and run them though one of the body mount holes that secure the front fender trailing edge. This is the solution Toyota finally used to fix the problem on later models.

To be absolutely certain you have the leaks fixed, you need to remove the dash and hose the roof and windshield down, after you've fixed the problem(s). With the dash out, you will immediately see where the leak(s) is/are. I'd bet real money your firewall is rusted from the leakage, and you'd be better served treating that while you're fixing the leaks, than ignoring it.

This sounds like a lot of work, but it can be done in a weekend, provided you have the parts.

Thank you for the information.

A couple of things, how would water ingress into the sunroof if it's siliconed off completely? I'm honestly asking. I did three layers on a dry day. Then tested it afterwards.

The truck was southern owned, and no rust, the leak is as recent as 1 month ago. So I highly doubt it's rust. However, I will still try it out.

The windshield is oem, and original one that came with the car 28 years ago. I redid the sealant with water proof and weatherproof silicone on a dry day.

I was told the gutter mounts can leak. And that was somebody else's issue, that lead them to strip old stuff, test it for water intrusion, then reapply 2 coats of sealant/ silicone. I have yet to try that.

I will also try the body mount removal you mentioned.

 

[Malleus]

Your sunroof may not be leaking, I mentioned the leakproofing because many people who have leaking sunroofs tape them or silicone them, because they can't fix them. The fix is really very easy, but not intuitive.

Whether your windshield glass is original or replacement is less important than whether the seal is OEM or not. Non-OEM seals leak. Period. OEM seals installed with silicone leak. Every time. The rubber is not compatible with silicone; it won't stick.

Unfortunately, the Toyota specified sealant is no longer available. The closest replacement is BetaSeal U-418:

I have personally used this several times and it has never failed. The oldest replacement now has about 8 years on it.

Your gutters may be leaking, there's is no way to tell without removing the interior trim. Doing so will tell all.

I can promise you that if your sunroof and/or windshield has leaked, your firewall is rusted. The coating on the passenger side of the sheet metal will not prevent flash rust from forming if it gets wet.

 

[Malleus]

To be clear, the sunroof drain design is flawed. Compare the front drains to the rears. The front drains empty into a pocket between two sealed body panels, INSIDE the cabin. Genius. The rear drains exit through the fenders and discharge into free air. They never clog. It's pretty easy to see why.

Toyota's plan was to have the front drain tubes discharge into the pockets, and when the pocket had filled up (hopefully not to the level of the wiring harness connectors installed in those very same pockets!), the water would overflow into a channel leading into the rocker panels, which would then drain via pinch drains between the inner and outer rocker panel sheets. In the event that the pinch drains ever plugged (no, that never, ever happens), Toyota installed removable plugs in the rocker panels to allow (some of) the water to drain out.

Can you see any problem with this plan?

1) Why would you store water, which wasn't ever supposed to be inside the cabin, in the body panels, inside the cabin?
2) Why would you intentionally route drain water into an internal space containing wiring connectors?
3) Why would you intentionally fill up the rocker panels with water, knowing this is an area which is prone to rust on every car/truck/etc. ever made?

I normally don't criticize other designers, having been a designer myself for many years, because so many decisions go into approving any design that it's really hard to place blame. And, I really love 80s. But, there was a solution, literally, 7 feet from the problem area. And, Toyota eventually adopted this solution themselves, on later models.

 

[effjay80]

The long term solution to leaking roof drains is to replace the front drain tubes with rear drain tubes, and run them though one of the body mount holes that secure the front fender trailing edge. This is the solution Toyota finally used to fix the problem on later models.

^^Any chance have a pic of this where the tubes exit??