My 75 series camper mark 2 (6 Viewers)

[roscoFJ73]

Around here the guys would kill for that low centre of gravity

It will be lower when I fit the tyres under the alloy tray

 

[Coyote808]

Great looking truck, Rosco, wish we had those here in the states legally. At least it's only another year or so to wait until we can start bringing in 25 year old rigs now.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Great looking truck, Rosco, wish we had those here in the states legally. At least it's only another year or so to wait until we can start bringing in 25 year old rigs now.

Thanks C808.

If your heading down the path of buying a 75 series ,get the cab chassis. The 25 yo troopies are fairly rusted by now

 

[Coyote808]

I figured as much, but the troopies aren't really my cup of tea. I'd rather have a wagon or a truck, but rust shouldn't be as bad as some old cruisers around here.

Question on the setup of your dropside flatbed. How quickly can you take the dropsides and canopy off and put that heavy duty looking setup on there?

 

[roscoFJ73]

I figured as much, but the troopies aren't really my cup of tea. I'd rather have a wagon or a truck, but rust shouldn't be as bad as some old cruisers around here.

Question on the setup of your dropside flatbed. How quickly can you take the dropsides and canopy off and put that heavy duty looking setup on there?

The sides just slide backwards and off. There are holes for split pins if you want to drive around the farm with the sides down.
The canvass canopy has a 2 bolts on each corner and takes 5 mins to remove/replace.(canvass is now deceased after the run to Israelite Bay and hitting low level branches)

The alloy camper body now has 4 stainless steel closed turnbuckles or rigging screws.
It also has 4 wind up jacks which fit into each corner.
I guess it takes 5 mins. Its easier on level ground.

We use these trays on nearly everything and this one was origianlly on a 1 ton Mazda cab over engine badged as a Ford.
I had new brackets made from S/S and redrilled to fit the Landcruiser mountings.
The 75 cab chassis frames are interchangeable with a troopy

The tray has a lot of room underneath and I plan to build a cradle for 2 spare tyres.
This is where all the new V8 cab chassis store their spares in the Toyota factory tray(similar to mine)

 

[Coyote808]

That looks like quite a bit of space under that tray. It looks possible you could even fit 4 spares under there with proper storage. Or were you planning on using the left over space for water or further fuel storage?

 

[roscoFJ73]

That looks like quite a bit of space under that tray. It looks possible you could even fit 4 spares under there with proper storage. Or were you planning on using the left over space for water or further fuel storage?

LOL you could probably get 3 spares under there,but I have spare tubes ,split rims and a tyre repair kit so I can mend my own if I have to.
I have considered putting some kind of tank under there ,maybe a hot water tank warmed by the exhaust for hot showers at the end of the day(my friend has this in his 75 troopy)
I already have 2 x 90 litre factory fuel tanks and 80 litres of water in the camper.

I now have the camper firmly bolted on so I can lift the tray and camper off for access with the 4 jacks

Ive heard that there is a slide out tray that is the full length of the alloy tray and the hatches open/close as it moves in/out but that sounds like $$$

 

[Coyote808]

Only three spares? Maybe it's just me but I don't like having odd numbered spares. Although, you can never have too much fuel, that heated water idea sounds kinda interesting. My main concern is how hot that water would get if it's heated by the exhaust, I guess not much hotter than some motels I guess.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Only three spares? Maybe it's just me but I don't like having odd numbered spares. Although, you can never have too much fuel, that heated water idea sounds kinda interesting. My main concern is how hot that water would get if it's heated by the exhaust, I guess not much hotter than some motels I guess.

I like the number 3 .
For extreme outback work,some groups recommend 2 spares on rims, 2 tyres unmounted and 4 spare tubes

I said in my other post that he used the exhaust but Im thinking of someone else using it to heat biofuel.

This friend of mine who has the hot water set up is a 73 yo brittish army veteren who likes to do cross continental crossings of oz from all angles with his wife

He uses hoses off his heater hose which he can turn on/off with a valve to heat a tank between the rails ,behind the cab.
He says it also keeps the 1HZ at its correct temperature all day in hard going in low range




Im thinking of getting a small gas powered water heater with built in 12V pump.
Im not a fan of plugging things into the coolant or lubrication systems unless you really have to.

 

[Coyote808]

Hmm, interesting idea. I guess the former plumber in me isn't too scared about the engine's plumbing because if you do the work right, you can have a valve there where you can switch it open or closed to do your desired work, but I can see why you wouldn't want to do that. Less coolant to cool the engine and you're asking more of your water pump, which you would have to have a higher displacement pump to just keep all the juice flowing through the whole thing. But the idea of just plopping a tank on top of the exhaust might have some possibilities.

EDIT: Forgot to ask in an earlier post for pictures of this set you have to lift that camper off your flatdeck.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Hmm, interesting idea. I guess the former plumber in me isn't too scared about the engine's plumbing because if you do the work right, you can have a valve there where you can switch it open or closed to do your desired work, but I can see why you wouldn't want to do that. Less coolant to cool the engine and you're asking more of your water pump, which you would have to have a higher displacement pump to just keep all the juice flowing through the whole thing. But the idea of just plopping a tank on top of the exhaust might have some possibilities.

EDIT: Forgot to ask in an earlier post for pictures of this set you have to lift that camper off your flatdeck.

Ill be seeing old Bob today so Ill get more info about his hot water system. I cant see why ithe engine would have less coolant volume though.
As for flow ,I think the resistance of pushing the water around the hot water tank would cause the engine to get its fair share of coolant.
Bob did say it took all day to warm it.

The exhaust on these is quite cool. If I leave mine idling for a while I can put my hand on the exhaust pipe just below the manifold.
Of course ,when you stoke it up it heats up

It has 4 wind up jacks with welded brackets that slide into the corners.
Im going away this weekend and will post some pics monday

 

[Coyote808]

Ill be seeing old Bob today so Ill get more info about his hot water system. I cant see why ithe engine would have less coolant volume though.
As for flow ,I think the resistance of pushing the water around the hot water tank would cause the engine to get its fair share of coolant.
Bob did say it took all day to warm it.

The exhaust on these is quite cool. If I leave mine idling for a while I can put my hand on the exhaust pipe just below the manifold.
Of course ,when you stoke it up it heats up

It has 4 wind up jacks with welded brackets that slide into the corners.
Im going away this weekend and will post some pics monday

It may take all day, but it is still a great way to utilize what would other wise be wasted energy. What other little ideas have you rattling around in your noggin? All of the stuff I've got planned for my 60 involve getting it ready to support a 6 person weekend camping trip to the outer islands here, not cross country treks. I've got a drawer set up that I've been laying out right now just by looking at my available space and possible sliding windows to make access back there easier, and replacing the fuel tank and spare tire carrier with possible larger fuel tank and a fresh water tank. All in due time I guess.

 

[Bogo]

Espar makes a petrol fired boiler, the Hydronic 4 or Hydronic 5. Many companies make diesel fired ones.

Calorifier is what they call tanks made to take engine coolant water and heat water for domestic use. Many also have AC powered coils too. A simple tube a few feet long in an insulated tank will do. It would be best if it was double walled so if the coolant leaks it drains out rather than gets into the domestic water. The thing is I only know of double walled in copper and I once heard copper and diesels don't mix.

If you want to take heat off your exhaust. On a petrol move the catalytic converter to under a stainless steel tank. Otherwise I'd just snake an exhaust tube back and forth a couple times under the tank. I'd use a larger tube than normal to keep exhaust pressure down. I don't see how having the water directly contact the exhaust tub would have a chance of surviving long term. Thermal expansion I bet would kill it. Then when things get hot enough you'd have to listen to boiling water and there goes your water supply.:whoops:

For very hot water you can get mixing valves to mix it with cool water to get a showerable water temp. Check out the calorifier sellers for them. It will mean you have to pressurize the tank the same as your cold water supply. That can be done with a 12VDC RV type water pump. Don't knock it, 20 liters of water at 90+C goes a very long ways for showering when mixed with cooler water.

Personally I'd use engine coolant and a calorifier. Hook it in parallel with the cabin heater.

Here is a thread where they really go over diesel heating and talk about calorifiers too: Diesel hot water systems - Expedition Portal Forums

 

[Coyote808]

It's been a while since you've posted any updates here, Rosco. I'm beginning to wonder if you've hit something akin to cruiser ideas block, or if you're just enjoying how awesome your truck already is.

BTW, I'm still curious as to how your set up to lift that camping rig off your flatdeck works and looks if you could provide for my curiousity. It's actually given me an idea for my truck, but I would like to see how it's set up on your truck.

 

[roscoFJ73]

It's been a while since you've posted any updates here, Rosco. I'm beginning to wonder if you've hit something akin to cruiser ideas block, or if you're just enjoying how awesome your truck already is.

BTW, I'm still curious as to how your set up to lift that camping rig off your flatdeck works and looks if you could provide for my curiousity. It's actually given me an idea for my truck, but I would like to see how it's set up on your truck.

I didnt forget but Ive been laid low with a flu and I aggravated an old back/rib injury climbing inside to fit the collared eye bolts for the turnbuckles to hold the camper body on.
Old age is catching up with me

Ill try and get something up tommorrow

In regards to hot water, why not use one of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOT-WATER-SH...3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:1|39:1|240:1318.

You could use it as intended or send it to a hot water tank

 

[Bogo]

In regards to hot water, why not use one of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOT-WATER-SHOWER-CAMPING-4wd-caravan-camp-12v-car_W0QQitemZ330284775967QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330284775967&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318.

You could use it as intended or send it to a hot water tank

Here is another one: VEHICLE MOUNTED HOT WATER SHOWERS

They are nice (reports from friends) but you better mount it so the fresh water side drains fully so it can be drained properly and doesn't freeze.

Another engine hot water option is a engine heated water tank like made by isotherm. Isotherm and other companies units are available with US input voltages. The draw back with them is they need a pressurized water system where hot and cold water use the same pump. That means you need a water tank too. When you are driving it heats the water in the tank from engine heat. It will get very hot. Over 160F. They use a mixing valve to bring the temp down to safe levels for showering and dish washing. If you know how to do a water miser shower like needed with the sun shower bags then you can easily get a good number of showers off of a small 15 liter unit. My experience goes back to using them on sail boats in the '70s. I always wondered why the main line RV water heaters didn't do the same thing. If I was going to put on board hot water this is the way I would go. It can be heated with waste engine heat or heat from a boiler unit. (I guess I mentioned them a bit earlier in the thread. )

 

[roscoFJ73]

It's been a while since you've posted any updates here, Rosco. I'm beginning to wonder if you've hit something akin to cruiser ideas block, or if you're just enjoying how awesome your truck already is.

.

I havent done much except fix it to the truck and install the battery and AC charger with 12v power supply(variable 3v-15v)
My Waeco 80 cannot run directly off 240 volt like my smaller Waeco 50 ,so the 12v power supply is for the fridge and I can run the 12V lights and accessories off that while the 100 amp deep cycle is being charged.
I will have solar panels one day

Ist pic is showing the stainless rigging screws I use to strap it down. These do up surprisingly tight

2nd pic is showing the jack in its travelling position if you want to remove the cmper when you arrive.
I wouldnt bother unless I was staying in one spot for a week or so,as the jacks are fairly heavy and I imagine would create wind drag also.
They also need some extra tuff bungy straps to keep them in place while on the road.

3rd pic is showing the camper free from the crusier. It would come down to about 2ft off the ground if you want.
The camper is fully functional when like this with its own battery running the fridge and lights(it has 3 fluro lights in the roof not viewable in the pics)

 

[roscoFJ73]

These pics show the installed battery and charger. Wiring will get some cable tube and a tidy up when Im happy with the set up.
Im doing a test at the moment to see how long a fully charged battery can run the 80 litre waeco on level 2 before the voltage gets too low and the fridge shuts down.

The 2nd pic shows the"bathroom" where the faucet is
The PO put that ugly plywood in there and it will be replaced with an alloy cupboard for a gas bottle and cooking utensils with a mirror on the outside for shaving

The last pic show an extended side winding jack with its welded forks. I guess they must weigh about 30lbs ea

 

[roscoFJ73]

Here is another one: VEHICLE MOUNTED HOT WATER SHOWERS

They are nice (reports from friends) but you better mount it so the fresh water side drains fully so it can be drained properly and doesn't freeze.

Another engine hot water option is a engine heated water tank like made by isotherm. Isotherm and other companies units are available with US input voltages. The draw back with them is they need a pressurized water system where hot and cold water use the same pump. That means you need a water tank too. When you are driving it heats the water in the tank from engine heat. It will get very hot. Over 160F. They use a mixing valve to bring the temp down to safe levels for showering and dish washing. If you know how to do a water miser shower like needed with the sun shower bags then you can easily get a good number of showers off of a small 15 liter unit. My experience goes back to using them on sail boats in the '70s. I always wondered why the main line RV water heaters didn't do the same thing. If I was going to put on board hot water this is the way I would go. It can be heated with waste engine heat or heat from a boiler unit. (I guess I mentioned them a bit earlier in the thread. )

This is the one I will get.COLEMAN HOT WATER ON DEMAND - eBay, Parts, Accessories, Caravans, Motorhomes, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 16-Nov-08 19:27:09 AEDST)
Ive asked around on some aussie forums and it gets the thumbs up everywhere.
Its not reliant on the engine and is only about $350AUD.
As it is instantaneous,there is no need to store hot water

 

[millatruse]

Great work, thanks for sharing all the pics! Now I'm overloaded with ideas for future plans!