My 1983 SR5 Long Bed Build.

[dngspot]

The second, rear, winch is installed. I built the bed with tubes, that would run under the floor, for the winch to bolt through. So the bolts that the winch mount to, go through 1 1/2 tube with 3/16 wall and then through the bed floor 3/16 plate. The fairlead is mounted to two up right tubes. All of those bolts had to purchased. I was not sure what the tensile strength of the provided bolts were, they did not have any markings or, for that matter they looked pretty cheap. So knowing they had to be replaced, I ordered good old Caterpillar bolts, 10.6 grade. That pooch should not be going any place. I also made a couple terminal lugs. They landed where the winch cables ended. One is under the passenger floor board and the other is under the bed near the passenger rear wheel well. I also ran both the positive and negative cables through the floor behind the winch motor. The grommets are PCV grommets, they fit both the floor and the cables nicely.

Two of the terminal lugs. It is made from an old cutting board that my wife was about to throw away. I cut two 1.5 X 3 inch sections, drilled and counter sunk the 1/4 inch bolts. Then drilled 3/8 hole and installed a carriage bolt. The other section I counter sunk for the carriage bolt head and matched the holes for the 1/4 bolts. Then put it together and mounted it. I installed one nut on the carriage bolt and then attached the cables and locked them down with another nut.

This guy is pretty busy now. I may replace it with another home made unit. It has 4 cables and I still need room for the supply voltage wires for the lights.

Front view of the rear winch. I had to mount the control box on top of the tie rods, one of the rear lights would hit the box if I put it on the motor.

Rear view of the rear winch.

 

[dngspot]

Due to the upcoming holiday my wife said no welding or working on the truck. Dang what the heck am I going to do with myself? I know, go shopping, for the truck. I have been wondering what I was going to use for storage and after finishing with the winches, I need a place to put my recovery stuff. So off I went to find what I need. I was going to fit the totes in a similar fashion as Joe Chacon did but, as with the plans the long bed puts the angle close to the end of the bed a bit shallow. The top of the small tote makes contact with the top tubes. Also with the propane tanks, the tanks are taking place of the larger totes, the totes have to move also. So I grabbed my wife and she came up with this, she has a better eye for æsthetics than I. I am still on the fence, please let me know what you think.

 

[x factor]

Looks good to me. It follows the angle of the rear tubes nicely.

 

[jynx]

Looks like you are ready to take that thing for a spin. Looking awesome.

Tote Placement looks like a good use of space. My only question is can they all be retrieved without having to move everything. The larger ones look like they will clear the sides but the smaller ones look like they might be snug getting out over the fender without getting hung on the top bar.

From the picture the only thing you might try would to see if the small totes will fit against the tanks and gas cans oriented the same as they are now which would push the larger totes back a few inches but not enough to interfere with the top bars. And that is dependent on if you need the space that is there now to clear the tanks for removal.

 

[dngspot]

Thanks guys. I have moved those totes around and tried every possible location, including what you have suggested, jynx. The small totes clear the fender and top bars, in the location in the pic. I am going to install small D rings on the inside of the fenders to strap them down in that location. They will be used as needed and one may be removed for a cooler, now and then, yea I like beer. Cool feedback though.

Now on to the new stuff.

I have installed a little of the outside trim. Now I have latching doors and working locks.

I also installed the shifters. I cut up a shifter boot assembly and built a ring for the front two shifters.

I had this rag for a dash, too long. It is 30 years old and was falling apart. When it had to be removed a new piece would fall off, the plastic had enough

Today I cut up metal and built a dash. In the pick below there is a goober on the right side. That was cleaned up when I cut out the hvac control hole.

I went ahead and painted it, my wife is getting me a stereo for a birthday, so I will wait for that hole. I wanted to start with a blank dash, I intend to install a couple gauges and switches also.

 

[dngspot]

I have had a busy week and did not get a darn thing done. Yesterday I pulled all of the old radio wire from the dash. That radio will be the last I will have a "professional" install in my truck, the guy used tin snips on the lower door panel to open up a space for a speaker. It looks hacked up. I will use the openings in the original location.
I installed the dash, working with the heater ac controls sucks. I left the cables on the control when I removed it. In the process I broke the face plate, that was tough to find. When I was test fitting the stuff the face plate looked odd sitting flush with the dash so I put a 1/4 square bezel around it. Anyway the dash is installed. I also painted the left vent assembly.

Today I finished installing the ducting and felt time to start working on the door panels. I scrubbed them clean and this is what I ended up with.

I did the repairs where the old pouch was, well it is obvious I am not the best at vinyl repair. I also painted the lower half of the panel. I used Duplicolor vinyl paint. I also chose a charcoal gray for the lower half and a satin black for the top. The lower panels are finished, the top black must wait for the bottom to dry so I can mask it. The old chrome bead that ran across the middle of the door, I removed the chrome plating and will shoot it a gloss black.

 

[dngspot]

Ah the heck with the masking, I painted them black.

 

[jynx]

Lol, I didn't realize this was going to be a top to bottom rebuild. The interior is coming along.

 

[ajordan1975]

Sweet build! Very nice!
Just one question. Why have Jerry cans if you're running propane?

 

[dngspot]

Lol, I didn't realize this was going to be a top to bottom rebuild. The interior is coming along.

I let the truck sit for about 10 years. During that time, I formed an idea what of what I wanted to do. Some of those ideas are finished and some left to do. I have added a few things but have stayed the course. It is not a complete restore, hell, I would be afraid to wheel it. I intend to use this as if it was a somewhat used truck that I could drive to work or hit the trail with. I also want it to last as long as it did when it was new but, only better.

Sweet build! Very nice!
Just one question. Why have Jerry cans if you're running propane?

The system is a dual fuel setup. It will burn both gas and propane.

 

[ajordan1975]

I see said the blind man.

 

[dngspot]

I have the door panels in. I also cut the lower boards for carpet, I have to have something to cover all of those holes. I also installed the speakers. I used 12g wire for the speakers and routed it through the doors to the dash. I also located the keyed and non keyed wires from the old install.
I am off out of town for training, next week, but will be back on Friday. I hope to get the kickers started then.

 

[dngspot]

The passenger door is done

 

[dngspot]

I mounted the air tank. Cut a couple pieces of flat stock and welded them to the bottom of the bed then mounted the tank to those.

I also moved the rear top shock mount to a bar I welded into the bed frame. This moved the shock about 3 inches higher and allowed me to move them out toward the frame about 5 inches. They are at an angle but, more of an acceptable one.

 

[dngspot]

I spent a bunch of time running around town looking for fittings and hose. The hose I came up with is for air brakes. I will run that to the check valve, about 2 feet. Then after that the rest of the hose will be Goodyear black air hose. This will run from the engine compartment to the tank. I managed to fit both hoses. No pics, they look like hose going no place anyway.
The regulator I am using for the ARB's came from a friend that had it laying around. It is for air brake systems. The regulator is housed in a water tight box and the lines attach from the outside of the box. I t has a latch on the side of the box that can be locked if needed. The regulator that came in the box was set up for a limit of 30 psi. I took the box apart and removed the regulator and gauge and installed 120 psi stuff I had.
I think I will mount it under the bed, either close to the back of the cab or near the tank.

 

[jynx]

Looks like you are getting down to the final details. We should be seeing some wicked trail pictures once things start to warm up a little. Early spring says the Groundhog, with a 60% margin of error of course

 

[dngspot]

I hope I have it done in the spring.

I was wondering how I was going to mount the oil separator and use as a manifold. So I decided to buy a steal one and weld it to a bracket then mount it to the fender. And use the manifold to hard plumb in the oil separator. I went to work this morning and opened up my Grainger book and could only find aluminum manifolds and they were pricey to boot. So I built one out of 1 inch square stock. I drilled down the long side and tapped the ends 1/4 pipe. I then drilled the center of one side for three holes. Tapped those and now I have a very sturdy manifold. It took about 45 minutes to build.

 

[dngspot]

I have changed jobs. 15 years as a Cat mechanic, now a John Deer mechanic. I have background in JD stuff. The new job came with a raise and better benefits. The shop is new and the Cat politics do not exist so I can be a true mechanic. Life is back in order.

I did very little today. A bunch of driving around town looking for fittings. The air manifold is now welded to a mounting bracket. It is also dressed with a gauge, pop off valve and pressure switch. Tomorrow I find a place to bolt it in.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I have changed jobs. 15 years as a Cat mechanic, now a John Deer mechanic. I have background in JD stuff. The new job came with a raise and better benefits. The shop is new and the Cat politics do not exist so I can be a true mechanic. Life is back in order.

I did very little today. A bunch of driving around town looking for fittings. The air manifold is now welded to a mounting bracket. It is also dressed with a gauge, pop off valve and pressure switch. Tomorrow I find a place to bolt it in.

Congrats on the new job! Sounds like the situation is much better.

 

[dngspot]

Thanks, It is much better.

I spent the day plumbing in the main lines and manifold for the air compressor. I used 3/8 inch air hose by Goodyear. All the fittings after the oil separator are 1/4 pipe. The line into the oil separator from the compressor is 3/8 air brake line with a 3/8 inch pipe connection to the separator. The manifold includes an adjustable pop off valve, 90-120 psi switch and a 0-160 psi gauge. The gauge is on a tee and one end is plugged at this time, I might install a dash gauge from this source. The tank has two lines from it at this time. One goes to the manifold and the other to the regulator for the ARB system. I have enough fittings and tubing to finish the job, must have spent $100.00 on the darn things. I stopped there because the next stuff requires removing the dash again and that will happen after I run the wire and relays for all of the lights. The air lines for the ARBs will run into the cab with the light wires and propane controls. The tank is plugged at the other end, I intend to install a coupler for an air line at that end.

The manifold is mounted on the edge of the stock battery tray and under the air cleaner. I can see most of the manifold from the top and the oil separator from the passenger side.

The lines from the tank.

And the location of the regulator.

I removed the 5 inch shackles and installed six inch shackles.

Her butt does not sag anymore. I hate saggy butts.