Muffler Replacement - DIY?

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NorthShoreLC

NorthShoreLC

10 Year
Joined
Feb 13, 2013
Threads
20
Messages
93
Location
Massachusetts
I'm going to be boring and just replace my toasty muffler with OEM, but I'm wondering how easy or difficult the install is. I'll start to hit the bolts with PB blaster early and often, but for those of you who have done this in your garage, should I go for it, or is it better to spend a few bucks to pay someone who has a lift and a torch to get it done?

I am fairly mechanical but haven't torn into the cruiser too much.

Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
 
Hit the bolts with PB for a week. Have a torch handy. My bolts were essentially heat treated and fused themselves in the pipes. I had no heat and had to drill/Dremel them out. The exhaust hangers will also put up a fight. Mine were near impossible to remove. Lots of leverage, and use soap or PB blaster to help slide the rubber mounts off. Also, you may have to remove the driver side spring and lower the axle to slide the entire rear section out. I could not get the section over the axle out without cutting it off.
 
I think the hardest part is getting the bolts out. Two of mine finally unthreaded but the other two I had to cut with a die grinder. Looking back I should have just cut them all :D

With any muffler you will have to shimmy it around a bit to get the flange gaskets to seal properly. Start the engine and feel around for exhaust escaping around the gasket--be careful not to burn yourself! If they leak unbolt the flange a bit wiggle the pipes and re-tighten evenly and check again. It might work the first time or it might take several attempts you never know. A little petroleum jelly on each of the hangers will help with removal and installation as well.

I bought this direct fit Bosal muffler through Amazon however I purchased the gaskets through my Toyota dealer (very high quality and not too expensive). So far so good. Good luck.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosal-Exhaust-Muffler-279-773/dp/B000IY77GS/?tag=ihco-20
 
I would not try to remove the bolts, buy new ones and cut off the old. That should save time and make it much easier to re-assemble.
 
I live in salt country and knew everything was solid rust on the exhaust. I bought all new cat-back OEM parts, including bolts, hangers and gaskets. After brief futile attempts on the original, I quickly cut off everything with Dremel and Sawzall. Install was easy. I did not have to remove any suspension, but did have to take off the hitch. Reward yourself with some new tools with the money you'll save in DIY.
 
I have someone coming over Sunday to replace my muffler back from the cats. I have all the parts including muffler, intermediate pipe, resonator, and gaskets. However, I can't find anywhere what bolts to buy because I know the old ones will be shot. I have searched here, Walker's website, and called around a few parts stores. Nobody can answer because the Toyota exhaust diagram doesn't list bolts. I want to make sure i don't have to waste time going to a store when my guy shows up.
 
There's a reason why most exhaust shops fully weld custom exhausts - they leak or rust and sieze up. Cut all that stuff out and weld up your exhaust. For most people it's easier to pay someone else who does this every day for a living. Otherwise if you have the welder already, by all means go buy some exhaust parts and DIY the whole thing.
 
highonpottery said:
There's a reason why most exhaust shops fully weld custom exhausts - they leak or rust and sieze up. Cut all that stuff out and weld up your exhaust. For most people it's easier to pay someone else who does this every day for a living. Otherwise if you have the welder already, by all means go buy some exhaust parts and DIY the whole thing.
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Maybe next time I'll go the welded route, but for now I have all the pieces to be installed, but I have no information about the bolts. I watched a youtube video made by one our fellow Mudders, but he said he just used bolts off hand.
 
I purchased new nuts, bolts, and gaskets form toyomotorparts.com when I did mine because the originals looked very rusty. But, to my surprise, all 6 came out in one piece. Nuts came off every one. Impact wrench helped, though. They may have not come off without the impact.
 
badlander said:
I purchased new nuts, bolts, and gaskets form toyomotorparts.com when I did mine because the originals looked very rusty. But, to my surprise, all 6 came out in one piece. Nuts came off every one. Impact wrench helped, though. They may have not come off without the impact.
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Do these part numbers change because going off three sources the numbers don't agree. Is there anything special that they have to be from Mr. T? The O'Reilly guy said go to Lowe's.
 
For those interested in an OEM cat-back exhaust system, here are the part numbers for everything, including pipes, gaskets, nuts, bolts, and rubber supports for a 2004 Land Cruiser. In parentheses are how many of each part is needed if more than one. The total discounted price was $898 and a couple hours hard work for my son and me got the old one off and the new one on. (Dremel and Sawzall old one off, nothing saved.)


Muffler 17403-50151

Resonator 17405-50030

Connector pipe 17450-50070

Gasket 90080-43028 (3)

Gasket 17451-50050

Clamp 17452-50050

Bolt/washer 91641-80840

Bolt/washer 91651-60835 (2)

Bolt 90080-10229 (6)

Nut 90177-A0004 (6)

Nut 90179-08024 (2)

Support 17565-13030 (2)

Support 17565-74280 (2)

Support 17565-46040 (2)

Damper 17581-50140

Insulator 17551-50091
 
Bolt 90080-10229 (6)

Nut 90177-A0004 (6)

Based on the number I believe this is what I'm looking for. I suppose lock washers are included? Is Mr. T's necessary?
 
I think this video addresses exactly what you're going for.



The hardest part is really just getting the old bolts off. Thankfully the bolts are all pretty accessible. You can buy a can of PB Blaster and spray down the bolts every night for a few days before you start. When you try to remove them first, try a simple socket wrench. That may work on some bolts. If the wrench doesn't work, you'll need a dremel or grinder and a hammer. as long as you're careful not to hit other stuff with the dremel and/or grinder you shouldn't hurt much.

It's definitely worth a shot to try it yourself. Most muffler shops just plain suck anyways. The guys welding the pipework don't go much beyond getting it attached and sealed in that moment. Never mind a few months down the road when the welds corrode away and you're back where you started... Sadly, even cheap Chinese aftermarket bolt ons are better quality than what I've seen the big chain muffler shops do. Of course some shops do great work, but it's a gamble.
 
Yes, this is the video I saw, which is a great guide. However, the question goes unanswered. What bolts and nuts do you use once you cut the old ones out? Can you source these at your local hardware store or do you need Mr. T bolts and nuts?
 
Ah, sorry, missed that part. You can use most any of the higher grade bolts from your local hardware store. Ideally, they'd be a high grade stainless steel. I believe they're M8 or M10 for size. Honestly, it's not critical that it's the exact right size or even material type. Since you're pairing a new bolt up with a new nut you can do whatever fits through the holes and has a head wide enough to grab the flanges. I just used regular steel bolts I had lying around for this job. If I was buying new, I'd get stainless steel flange bolts in the highest grade available at Lowes.

For exhaust manifolds going into the head the right bolt matters. For exhaust flanges past the cats? Meh, whatever. :-)
 
The Toyota nuts are locking type. No lock washers required. And they are cheap too. Don't bother with hardware store crap. These are high quality hardened bolts. The gaskets are cheap too. If you go to toyomotorparts.com and put your VIN number in you will automatically get the correct parts.
 
suprarx7nut said:
Ah, sorry, missed that part.
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No problem, I didn't realize that was your video. Thanks for posting that because it is very helpful.

I called the dealership parts dept. and they can't get the bolts/nuts in until Monday. I don't know why I didn't do that before, but I enjoy research. I can't wait for Monday so I'll take your advice and get some high grade SS flange bolts/nuts from the hardware store. I'll get several sizes to make sure I don't have to make a second trip.

When looking online I really only saw the Porsche guys talking about which material for bolts. They were all over the place and warned about SS due to spawning, but I think they'll be fine on the LC.
 
badlander said:
The Toyota nuts are locking type. No lock washers required. And they are cheap too. Don't bother with hardware store crap. These are high quality hardened bolts. The gaskets are cheap too. If you go to toyomotorparts.com and put your VIN number in you will automatically get the correct parts.
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Toyota bolts are definitely the best option, agreed there. Stainless Steel highgrade bolts and locking nuts from Lowes or Home Depot will also work fine in the LC muffler application. The muffler is downstream enough that it's not seeing the same temps as a header or other upstream components where the specialized hardware is more crucial. Split washers or "lock washers" probably won't do much as I'd guess they'll weaken quickly with the exhaust heat.

MJM said:
The Bosal system is junk. Mine lasted 2 winters before is gave up and rusted. This is in Western NY with lots of snow and salt.
Bought a Walker and that has lasted longer so far. Do not wast your time with Bosal if you live in the rust belt.
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That's good to know! I wonder what makes the difference since they're both aluminized steel and the same price point.

RyanStl said:
No problem, I didn't realize that was your video. Thanks for posting that because it is very helpful.

I called the dealership parts dept. and they can't get the bolts/nuts in until Monday. I don't know why I didn't do that before, but I enjoy research. I can't wait for Monday so I'll take your advice and get some high grade SS flange bolts/nuts from the hardware store. I'll get several sizes to make sure I don't have to make a second trip.

When looking online I really only saw the Porsche guys talking about which material for bolts. They were all over the place and warned about SS due to spawning, but I think they'll be fine on the LC.
Click to expand...

Yeah, on a vehicle that's tough to access to a place where a leak could be catastrophic, I would care more. The Cruiser, however, is wide open underneath and easy to access. I used plain bolts I had lying around and it's been fine for 6 months. If they loosen I'll get some OEM bolts, no biggie.
 
Sandroad said:
Gasket 90080-43028 (3)
Gasket 17451-50050
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This is probably a dumb question but I think I only need two 90080-43028? Please correct me if I am missing something...
 
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