I would like to bring the rear axle further back too. Not much, but how much would justify the effort is the question. In my mind 1-2” is sufficient but seems like possibly a lot of work. Main 4 links are the easy part. But panhard bar seems like it would be challenging and then does the cross member also need to move back? Does the diff encounter the cross member when moved back? It will be up on a rack on Monday and I should be able to take a closer look.
Regarding the diff drop, I didn’t want to reduce the clearance under there. Don’t get me wrong, I had one on my 100 and feel it was likely necessary to keep the CV’s happy for the lift I had (cranking the torsion bars), but if I can cut to fit a larger tire rather than raise the suspension, I’d still rather do that. Keeping the suspension closer to stock geometry seems like a good idea.
40’s tuck in the rear surprisingly well when one wheel is flexed up and compressed… I’ll need to have some body work done to allow straight up compression w/o interference. That is w/o also dropping the bumpstops down quite a bit.
This was a 40” before the body lift. Should have about 1 3/8” more clearance above it in that area currently, but this is also without any wheel spacers in the back, and I think I’ll add a 3/4” to bring the rear closer to the width of what I’ll need in the front. Front will start with 1”. (Currently running 3/4” spacer in front. Nothing in the rear)
The below pictures were just starting to engage the bumpstops and lift the passenger tire, but I could still roll this tire with a little squeaking from it touching the fender.
View attachment 2944523View attachment 2944524
And the 40” in front in AHC low sitting just off the bumpstops. This is a current photo with the body lift…
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I'm liking your line of thinking through all this.
Regarding rear, yes, a mild extension to buy more clearance for 40s against the rear door jams. Kinda like what your thinking for the front to bring it forward just a tad, and is maybe where the Tundra longer CV, and/or diff drop, can ease angles for that.
You're spot on for your concerns in the rear. I was thinking 2", by re-locating the panhard link on the chassis side, to the outside rear of the chassis bracket. Then add a new bracket behind that to support it in dual sheer. Probably would add up to a lot of minor tweaks beyond the 4 trailing links. Chassis coil buckets, shock bracket, shim down and over anti-roll bar, clearance frame cross rail for pumpkin and possible sistering new metal to the other side to reinforce , extend lines, driveshaft spacer, etc.
I think I’ll try to do my sliders first, since that has clearly been the worst interference on trails and then see what’s needed next. I have some ideas for the sliders that will probably cost a little extra. So we’ll see what budget is left.
