Mounting flares like a pro (1 Viewer)

[aktundra]

I’m sorry I’m not better at posting links. But if you can scroll all the way back to June 4th, there is a video montage of Arctic Trucks installing a fender flare.

At :50 they use a caulk inside the wheel well. Any idea what product that would be ? Any guess if it is sealing the flare/fender seam, or an adhesive for the inner fender ?

At 1:25, it looks like a spray bottle is used to smooth/“finish” the flare/fender seam. Anybody familiar with this technique & the product(s) involved ?

Final question. It is my understanding the raw flare is filled with foam to keep debris out & protect from rocks thrown up by the tires. Any suggestions on what product to use ?


https://m.facebook.com/arctictrucksnorge/

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'm not gonna scroll through fakebook.

But, to finish caulking, use a spray bottle with soapy water to help as follows

Ideally, trial fit parts, then use painters tape to mask off the finished panels 1/16 either side of the joint.

Fill joint with ample caulk/silicone/polyurethane etc (you want the joint to be overfilled, not undefilled, you only get one shot at this)

Fit up parts, fast!

Add caulk to joint if needed

Spray copious amount of soapy water Along the joint.

Then use a tool to remove excess caulk. Plastic disposable teaspoon, or a paddlepop stick works well to scrape/ scoop excess caulk of the joint and slightly concave the surface of the caulk

Every time you work the caulk, spray more soapy water before touching it again.
The soap stops the caulk sticking where you don't want it, and stops tools or fingers dragging the caulk.
It also stops you from being able to add more caulk to a hollow joint, so overfill, not underfill the joint.

After you've removed the excess caulk, and have an even surface along the joint, and caulk isn't overlapping the painters tape (you basically want zero caulk on the tape) spray the joint again with soapy water, spray your fingers too, then gently run an index finger along the joint to smooth it off.
Soap up each time before touching it again.
Fingers are good at smoothing, not so much for removing caulk. Soap is your friend!!

Then carefully remove the painters tape, peeling it back on itself, and away from the joint.

After the tape is off, spray with soapy water again, and use your finger to smooth any lifted edges from removing the tape.

Sounds like a lot of steps, but it is the quickest easiest way to finish caulking neatly.

Have finished hundreds of feet of caulking like this on highly detailed construction projects.

Try to avoid the temptation to go back for "one last touch" that's when you'll forget to soap, and **** up a finished joint.

Sometimes tape isn't necessary, but it's usually worth while. Make sure to smooth down the edges of the tape first.

Any dish liquid will do. Use about 10% soap to water.

 

[BILT4ME]

I'm guessing the product is Seam Sealer that is made for automotive use and remains pliable but is very good at moving with auto panels without drawing moisture or acetic acid to the joint. You can work it just like @mudgudgeon said above.

 

[TYM4FUN]

I'm not gonna scroll through fakebook.

But, to finish caulking, use a spray bottle with soapy water to help as follows

Ideally, trial fit parts, then use painters tape to mask off the finished panels 1/16 either side of the joint.

Fill joint with ample caulk/silicone/polyurethane etc (you want the joint to be overfilled, not undefilled, you only get one shot at this)

Fit up parts, fast!

Add caulk to joint if needed

Spray copious amount of soapy water Along the joint.

Then use a tool to remove excess caulk. Plastic disposable teaspoon, or a paddlepop stick works well to scrape/ scoop excess caulk of the joint and slightly concave the surface of the caulk

Every time you work the caulk, spray more soapy water before touching it again.
The soap stops the caulk sticking where you don't want it, and stops tools or fingers dragging the caulk.
It also stops you from being able to add more caulk to a hollow joint, so overfill, not underfill the joint.

After you've removed the excess caulk, and have an even surface along the joint, and caulk isn't overlapping the painters tape (you basically want zero caulk on the tape) spray the joint again with soapy water, spray your fingers too, then gently run an index finger along the joint to smooth it off.
Soap up each time before touching it again.
Fingers are good at smoothing, not so much for removing caulk. Soap is your friend!!

Then carefully remove the painters tape, peeling it back on itself, and away from the joint.

After the tape is off, spray with soapy water again, and use your finger to smooth any lifted edges from removing the tape.

Sounds like a lot of steps, but it is the quickest easiest way to finish caulking neatly.

Have finished hundreds of feet of caulking like this on highly detailed construction projects.

Try to avoid the temptation to go back for "one last touch" that's when you'll forget to soap, and **** up a finished joint.

Sometimes tape isn't necessary, but it's usually worth while. Make sure to smooth down the edges of the tape first.

Any dish liquid will do. Use about 10% soap to water.

Wow, great visuals, thank you. I will try all if this next time at home.