Motor mount question

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lowtideride said:
It's a completely different style mount. The ones posted above do not cancel hardly any vibs, look at the sandwich design of the stock ones with probably about a 1.5 of rubber between the metal. It does a much better job because the surfaces are aloud to move so far. The rigid mount above does none of that but it sure won't break. There is a guy over on Pirate that installed just one on the drivers side and his rig vibrated so bad at had to be kept at over a 1000 rpms.
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If you don't believe me find someone who has that style mount in a DD and ask them.
 
If you compare the OD of the body of the bushing to the size of the through bolt you'll see that there is room to move way more than a sandwich construction can stand and stay together. So it comes back to the urethane and how compliant it is or is not.

My DD has two of this design in it, stock. It does not shake your fillings out, and being a 1600cc NA diesel it sure would try if it could. If you watch the engine at idle and compare it's vibes to how much the car vibes it is quite a bit different even though the car still does vibe quite a bit at idle. Which testifys that the resilience of the insert is crucial to how much vibration is transmitted and not that the design is inherently a bad one.

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I used "pin and sleeve" type mounts for a while, first with poly and then tried regular rubber leaf spring bushings (saw it on extreme 4x4, Lmao) BOTH of them transmitted all the vibes to the cab. we're talking CD player skipping and not being able to use the rear view mirror at 1800 RPM.

Please don't do this if you drive the truck every day, I ended up using stock motor mounts and wrapping 3/16 aircraft cable around the mount and secured it back to itself with a saddle type clamp in a big circle. you can really fine tune how much play you have, and it doesn't rattle like chain. and you're not trying to weld standing on your head.

by the way, have someone lock the parking brake, or better yet hold the brakes with an automatic, then put the truck in low range and slowly try to move while you watch the engine, If your passenger motor mount is bad, that side of the engine should lift up. passenger mount always goes bad first :D
 
DS is the only one that I've ever had problems with, on any vehicle.

I'll be using spring eye bushing based engine mounts on my 60's V8 conversion if the donor does not come with the OE "Clamshell" mounts. Which are effectively the same thing only with less compliance in the vertical direction than the spring eye bushings would have. Those in my Suburban, with Energy Suspension urethane inserts, are perfectly fine. No perceptible difference in vibration from the worn-out rubber inserts. The Sub is really only used for road trips and none of my various passengers over the years have commented or complained about the vibration.
 
Wll I am changing both motor mounts and tranny mounts after my last trip...................crazy gots some seroius binding going on. Of course I knew they was shot before I left and its doesnt help to have the rig almost laying on its side and tacking out the RPM's:flipoff2:
 
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