Motor mount question

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(84 runner)I know its dumb but how much slack should there be during idle? I know on other toys there normally is little to none. Reason I ask I have a huge shake(huge to me) like 1/2 . The drivers side has slack but not as much as the passenger. Tried lifting but could not really tell It seem like the other side would just stop it any further. What got me looking was I hear the fan hit the shroud in between shifting .
 
Sounds like a motor mount.

If you replace them, the stock rubber ones will wear out again.

I went with these from LC engineering:

STREETMOUNTRED.JPG


They are softer than your average poly mount, but still very stiff. Part of the issue with vibrations and a 22re is that they do not have a counter-rotating shaft in the engine, like the 3rz has. This makes them shake, and if you run a stiff mount, they vibrate like crazy.

I'll take some vibrations over ripped motor mounts any day.
 
damn that looks sexy. How many clams?
Sounds like a motor mount.

If you replace them, the stock rubber ones will wear out again.

I went with these from LC engineering:

STREETMOUNTRED.JPG


They are softer than your average poly mount, but still very stiff. Part of the issue with vibrations and a 22re is that they do not have a counter-rotating shaft in the engine, like the 3rz has. This makes them shake, and if you run a stiff mount, they vibrate like crazy.

I'll take some vibrations over ripped motor mounts any day.
 
people flick me S for doin this but i dont care its a good idea

once you replace the mounts weld a chain to the frame and bolt the other side to the block right near the mount get the chain taught. it will prolong the life of yer new mounts. comes in handy when yer haulin dead whales. ;)
 
people flick me S for doin this but i dont care its a good idea

once you replace the mounts weld a chain to the frame and bolt the other side to the block right near the mount get the chain taught. it will prolong the life of yer new mounts. comes in handy when yer haulin dead whales. ;)

If you do this, make sure to only use 3 chain links, and weld both ends at the motor mount end.

I had a pair which were around 10 links long, they rattles ALOT, and I still busted a motor mount.
 
Wee-bit O/T with this chiming in but FWIW, all motor mounts from the 22r through the 3vze are basically the same. When I blew mine I just grabbed one off a 22re. The thing that did change is the metal covers, which are able to be swapped over to the new mounts. Thanks for the tip on those GRM, I'm off to order some up. :D

*Link for future reference: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebG...UniqueID=4961C211-05BE-4130-A1F2-741DFB14759C
 
I had to update on chaining motor mounts.

3 links correct

Lots of links (pics are from my old 4Runner)- wrong.

6281320036_large.jpg

6281320037_large.jpg

motormount4.jpg
 
The trans mount won't, but the engine mounts will. Scott E at rockstomper used to, and may still, offer something similar.
 
The style posted above will vibrate your truck to death. Not a good choice if your rig is a DD.
 
Have you used them?

I can see no reason why they would be any more or less rough than any other urethane mount.
 
It's a completely different style mount. The ones posted above do not cancel hardly any vibs, look at the sandwich design of the stock ones with probably about a 1.5 of rubber between the metal. It does a much better job because the surfaces are aloud to move so far. The rigid mount above does none of that but it sure won't break. There is a guy over on Pirate that installed just one on the drivers side and his rig vibrated so bad at had to be kept at over a 1000 rpms.

I ran into the same problem with the FROR t-case mount. Looked like a great design until I used it, It had hard urethane mounts like above and vibrated the truck so bad I had the idle set at 1200rpms. I sold it and went with a bud-built cross-member and stock mount. I can now have the idle set at 650rpms. Nothing will cancel vibrations better than the stock mounts, why? Because Toyota wanted smooth running vehicles.
 
So it is the urethane rather than the design that is the problem.

I have urethane inserts in the "clamshell" engine mounts in my '91 Suburban. Essentially the same concept as the TC mounts, but thinner in the nearly vertical direction, which would emphasize any harshness of the mount. Worn out rubber was replaced with purpose made urethane inserts from Energy Suspension and other than the engine not moving around any more I can not tell the difference.

The key thing to remember with urethane is that it is not all the same hardness. There are soft urethanes and there are hard urethanes, and there are some in the middle. If the inserts chosen were too hard for the application I can easily see how your results would come to be, but you can not condemn the whole design because of someone's poor choice of urethane durometer.
One way to soft up an existing mount like these would be to drill holes through the urethane inserts that are parallel to the bolt hole.

For my own mounts I plan to use the above design, but with new rubber inserts for a leaf spring. Quality rubber lasts better than urethane anyway.
 

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