molasses to remove rust ??? (1 Viewer)

[My wife said no FJ!]

So I've read, and heard, about many home brewed concoctions to remove rust, and I've seen many pictures, and videos, but still felt that it couldn't have been that easy...I mean really...molasses ???

Other than molasses I have read about milkstone, and phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid is also an ingredient in some soda drinks (I did not check them all, as I do not drink much soda) so I figured I could get a gallon at home depot and it shouldn't be that bad to have around, but figured I could get a couple quarts of molasses when I did my groceries with out going crazy, and I would mix up a small batch and see what happens for giggles. I have read that those that do use molasses buy it in 5 gallon drums at farm feed places for like $15 (seems to be popular with horse owners) but that was too much to get just for a test, so a couple of quarts is what I got.

I have a set of pretty badly rusted rims, so I mixed in 1 part molasses to 9 parts water in a rubber maid container, which I placed outside in a shelter. Put the rim in, and placed the lid on to prevent any critters from getting in.

This is the rim I started with...

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

After 48 hrs I took some Stainless Steel wool that I had laying around, put some gloves on, took the trim out of the molasses, and gave it a quick scrub. I could see that the rust seemed less, but let's face it, steel wool isn't much to scrub, so I rinsed off the rim, and put it back in the solution with the same section down, for a couple more days. I took a couple of cell phone pics, but did not post them here.

After another 48 hrs passed, (4 days total from first dip) I purchased a steel brush at Home Depot, took the rim out of the molasses, and gave it a good scrub...and I was surprised to see how the molasses seemed to neutralized the rust, and removed it right down in most of the deep pits where the rim was in the solution...and this rim was pretty bad. I scrubbed some more, and gave it a quick rinse, and below are the results.

If you look at the back of the rim, you can see where the heavy rust is all gone on the section that was soaking in the solution, and you can see some goldish colored paint! I figure it if can do this, to this rim, I should be able to dip some less rusted parts, and get them cleaned up pretty nicely. The molasses mixture is supposed to be good for a couple months, so I have some time to dip more parts in this summer. I have seen pics and videos of people using some plastic pools, and making their own bigger containers, and placing much bigger parts such as doors and fenders and stuff, all with what looks like decent results. I'll pass over it with some sand paper, and paint the rims to protect them, but these are mini truck rims, and I got them just as spares, so I'll be happy once they have a coat of paint on them.

Just thought I'd share some fun I had, not telling anyone to go out and try it, but I was surprised by the results I got, with the real minimal effort I actually put into it, (I put it back in the solution, and will scrub it a lot better tomorrow) and the $5 worth of molasses, so ya, I'll be trying more stuff

 

[west aussie]

another of my many hobbies is the collection, preservation and occassional restoration of antique windmills. i have experimented with mollasses solutions to some good effect. i found it particularly effective on cast iron parts. my methodology much the same 10 parts mollasses to 1 part water in a plastic container. occassional scrub with a wire brush or blast with the water spit. i found the solution to develope a dirty yellow frothy scum when it is working and the solution seems to have used up the active ingredients when this starts to dissipate. i found the discarded solution stinks for a long time after you discard it (doesnt always rain here much) so be careful where you tip it out.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Did you mean 10 parts water to 1 part molasses?

I did notice that once the frothy scum started that it seemed to work a lot better, so the reason the first 48hrs might have been a less effective was that it took that time to do it's thing.

The wire brush worked pretty good on these badly rusted rims, but I think that using a good pressure washer on something with just surface rust might be a much easier, and probably much better way of getting it off. Thanks for the tip

PS...now you need to post up some pics of those old windmills

 

[79fj40moneypit]

I had read that it can take up to 3 weeks for the solution to do its job, the solution should last up to 6 months if kept covered.

 

[west aussie]

thats correct sorry - 10 parts water 1 part mollasses. im sure ive already polluted the 25 hollow enough with my old westralian trayback 45 observations without getting me started on windmills! very few windmill enthusiests in australia but the hobby has a reasonable fllowing in the usa i believe.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

thats correct sorry - 10 parts water 1 part mollasses. im sure ive already polluted the 25 hollow enough with my old westralian trayback 45 observations without getting me started on windmills! very few windmill enthusiests in australia but the hobby has a reasonable fllowing in the usa i believe.

It's your call, but I think we'd all appreciate seeing a couple of pics of antique windmills

 

[tourboy]

I have had my FJ28 gearbox and transfer case soaking in a molasses solution for nearly 3 weeks now (see rescued aussie 28 thread for pic of the gearbox before soaking) and I haven't taken it out to look only stirred the mix every day. It is frothy and bubbling nicely and has brought all the grease to the top to form a 1/2 inch layer. Before I really had to force the gears to turn with a tyre lever braced against the housing and now it turns much more freely. I'd be surprised if I couldn't turn the shaft by hand now.
I'll leave it until this weekend and pull it out to have a look.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Cool...it will really cool to see that gearbox go back in the 28!!

I put another old mini rim in the solution, and now that the solution seems to be aging well, it took care of the rust in half the time...and this is some heavy rust!!

 

[tourboy]

Well here it is after 3 weeks and it spins freely by hand.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

I put this rim in for a week, and left it alone. Took it out, a quick scrub with wire brush, and hosed it down. It may flash rust, but that will be easy to clean off before paint...the big heavy rust is gone.

I should note that the solution does have a bit of an odor, but not too bad. I made a small batch (could only soak half a rim at a time)...within 5 to 10 feet distance before you notice any odor.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Now that one is seriously impressive. I may just try that with some small parts.

 

[67azcruizr]

that is really cool, it seems as though the reaction is limited to the rust?

I've had good results with ZEP PURPLE, but it does NOT remove the rust like that

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

that is really cool, it seems as though the reaction is limited to the rust?

Yes, that I can make out, just the rust, but I am no metallurgist, so this is just my humble opinion.

Hard to see in the pictures, but the rust has been cleaned out, right down into the pits.

I found this link today; Molasses and rust removal. - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Here is a quote from the first post in the attached link;
"Sulphated molasses has been used to remove rust from iron and steel for centuries. Possibly ever since the first drunken pirate dropped his flintlock in some on a Caribbean island as molasses is a byproduct of sugar cane.

According to a PhD Chemist friend the sulphur creates a weak organic acid. This acid does not attack the base metal as do the acids many of us are familiar with; sulphuric, muriatic (diluted hydrochloric), phosphoric (naval jelly).

The molasses must be the sulphated variety which is usually found in feed and grain stores as a component of horse feed. It is sold in 55 gallon drums but the stores will pour into your or their 5 gallon pail. Cost is roughly $15 for 5 gallons.

The other ingredient is water. "

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Now that one is seriously impressive. I may just try that with some small parts.

I'm guessing small parts hanging in the solution on hooks would come out pretty clean...especially if they are not as heavily rusted as these rims.

 

[79fj40moneypit]

Wow that is very clean compared, I will try that with my 45 windshield frame. thanks for the pics.

 

[peteinjp]

Very cool. I have some old PTO winch rollers that are seized up pretty good. Think I'll give it a shot.



Pete

 

[Icantdive55]

Thanks

Great thread and info. Somthing new to try on the few pieces I have left to de-rust!

 

[Terrys87]

I have heard of this and been wanting to try it. Thanks for the pics. Will be trying to derust some parts soon.

 

[Canadianmudmen]

Here in Canada we get alot of snow/ice salt and sand = rust I have both lower control arms on my 95 4runner rusted out where there are holes .. I bought 2 used ones from southern USA. However one is still abit rusty but not as bad as what i have and it was $50 as to the $350 the dealer wanted or the $200 they wanted for sandblast and powdercoating for 1 LOL I figure molassse dip wire brush and tremclad rust paint would be the way to go

So the question is in the pics above was it normal store bought molassse Which i can find at walmart,etc or a Sulphated molassse to which i can't find anywhere near me ..i live in the city and theres 2 more citys beside me. I say that because theres no grain and feed shops around me ..Thanks