Modifications to 01 Mark Levinson Stereo?

[toyotaspeed90]

First things first - yes, I know that I can replace the stereo and the end result is that it would probably sound better. That will be my last resort.

I have an 01 LX470 with an in-dash 6 CD changer + tape deck. I assume those with an external CD changer don't have an in-dash changer - as we don't have an external changer in the center console (maybe removed?). We haven't even attempted to use the CD player.

I like the factory look of the radio (my inner teenager is yelling at me, as that would have been the first thing to go) as installed. It sounds good enough for our wants/needs (we generally have kids and/or pups in the car, so loud and massive bass isn't necessary anymore).

I had a 2004 IS300 years ago - it had the stock radio and a factory external amplifier. I DID install an external amplifier for a subwoofer - and did so by modifying the factory amplifier to have pre-outs the same as an aftermarket deck. That worked great, it did require opening the amp and soldering some connections, but not a big deal.

In doing all of that I do remember reading that there were modifications that could be done to the radio as well (I can't remember if it was the radio or the amplifier) - but in essence, it took the audio feed signal from the tape deck, allowed you to modify it - and use it as an Aux-input.

I'm not talking about using a tape adapter to hook a phone up - I'm talking about hard wiring an Aux-input into the radio that hijacks the signal that would have otherwise been from the tape deck.


Has anyone done this, and if so are there instructions or at least a general 'how to'?

 

[PADDO]

I think you’ll find exactly what you’re after in a thread by @AnthraxVX, he did a simple write up on desoldering the tape deck magnetic reader and adding an Aux input in its place. Should get a hit if you search Aux by AnthraxVX.

 

[trdcorolla]

I know you want to keep your H/U, I replaced the H/U on my 01 ML non nav and here is what I noticed. The clarity was better with the new H/U but it looks like I lost max volume/bass. I could blast the stock radio and rock out, now, not so much. If I remember right (I didn't have the stock H/U in long after i fixed the ML speakers), the stock H/U sounded bass heavy on everything (which I liked, I was a bass head in my younger years). With the new H/U, most songs I don't even hear the bass, but certain songs/radio stations, there is bass just like the stock H/U, haha. Hopefully that made sense.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Awaiting the Aux adapter I ordered (should arrive tomorrow) and have pulled the stereo out and apart.

Upon looking at the popular method - the Aux wires are connected right at the point where the unfiltered tape signal would come in - I'm not sure that's what I want to do/try.

On this stereo (which is just a pioneer unit) there are some R L and G pins on the motherboard next to where the tape connects - I assume that's just too easy (could possibly be where the CD audio feeds as well, depending on which circuit is used and I don't want to go that route) - but was able to use them as a means to identify what is R L and G (right, left, ground) after the tape filters take place.

I'm going to try and solder to those tomorrow - worst case is it won't work and I'll go the "known" method.

In the photo attached this is only the tape deck pirtion - the R and L (on the left of the photo) are just after the magnetic strip connection (which is the soldered points just above) - all of the I/O for the tape are the pins to the right of the photo. I have been able to identify R, L, and G on those - which will also be easier to solder on.

 

[JuanGordo]

Can empathize with not wanting to scrap factory system for a stupid AUX input.
There is some info out there, but none of it quite tied it together. So bought a donor unit and figured it out.

SO Having done this, here is some info that would have helped then....

Found using the Tape input to be unnecessarily complex as it needs to be signaled to accept the input. Aka still have to have a blank tape spinning. Or some other, more involved options.

On 99 LX470 Nachamichi (pioneer), found the Dolby "test" Solder points on the PCB from the factory work for AUX in. Simply solder on Dolby R/L and then around a screw hole for Ground. Dolby Right and Left were marked.
Comes through crystal clear on the AM selection. Check all inputs as it may come in on a different input. It preempts/overpowers the antenna signal with no background noise. When plugged in, AUX signal, when unplugged AM functions normally.

For bonus points
Install Bluetooth through the same inputs. When powered you have BT, nice for camping and selecting music from the chair. Bluetooth adapters come in 12v or 5v for less than $20. We went 5v USB as I also needed USB for phone/tablet charging. We put a 12v to USB on top of the plate mentioned below inside the deck. FYI cheapee China BT adapters were crap and didn't have enough power to feed the Dolby test points as configured. The better adapters worked ok.

For double Bonus points.

Remove all the tape guts. Mount a "plate", in our case 1/4" aluminum, to the four screws that originally mount the tape unit. With 1.5" +- of the plate sticking straight out the cassette flap. Makes for a nice solid platform for any kind of mount you like. Ram/Phone/tablet etc. Also can route the chargers from above out the same flap. Then just use some black foam to fill the slot so dust stays out of the internals.

Hope this helps

 

[toyotaspeed90]

I got it all to work - most would say it sounds good/clear, but I'm a little less than impressed. It's a good working and cheap solution. It isn't as good as new/Factory Toyota Bluetooth, for example.

Some photos/explanation after this post.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

First, remove the unit and the brackets.

There are 2 screws on the side of the face, remove those, and then gently pry around the tabs. The ribbon on the face - there is a brown clip across the ribbon, push the clip down towards the circuit board - this should allow you to remove the ribbon.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Remove all of the little screws that hold the casing to the tape portion - I removed the screws from the front as well. The tape deck (and metal surround) will all pull off together. Pull the 4 screws that hold the tape assembly to the cage.

As stated above, I found where L, R, and G are located on the "out" from the tape deck assembly to the motherboard. That, along with the 3.5mm wiring is shown below.

Unsolder the tape ribbon.

Soldered the wires, shrunk tubing where I could, and wrapped in tape.

Re-assemble. Side note- I used one of the corner mounting screws (for the tape mechanism to the cage) and slid a corner of the now unsoldered tape ribbon under the screw so it wouldn't flop around.

Ignore where I fed the Aux cable out, it interferes with the motherboard and found another route.

 

[cuda6pak]

Has anybody else tried this on their 01 ML non-nav? It seems like the GROM, Crux, and USA-spec BT and aux adapters don't work on our specific year and audio config. Really just looking for an aux out of the stock radio but it's been a while since I've soldered anything like this.

Also interested how you said the audio quality wasn't as good as you'd hoped. If you're putting the aux directly attached to the motherboard, wouldn't the audio quality source be limited only by whatever you have plugged into the aux input?

 

[cuda6pak]

Follow up to what I ended up doing with this project -

Grom BT3 for Bluetooth? Anyone try it?

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