Meridians ROTM: Tacoma build!!!!!!!!!!! (1 Viewer)

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looks similar to my build but i stayed spring under so i didnt need to go hysteer and i only wanted to run 35s. good luck, its one hell of a swap.
 
i had my first truck (fj62, RIP) siting my yard dead so we just cut it up for the swap. i used the stock spring hangers, steering box... everything . i dont have many pictures since i just dont care about taking pics but a buddy took 2 with his cell phone. the steering box is mounted on the frame in the best place we could find but then again we did move the axle foward about 6 inches lol. i could try and get you some pics but each build is different and i am running 4.56 gears.
 
pm me if you have any questions and i will try to help you out in anyway i can.
 
mounted the hysteer and rebuilt the knuckles yesterday, decided to go with TG magnum studs but man are they long.replaced the kingpin bearings and races then ended up with thee thick shims to get close to the torque spec. the little difference between the two makes a lot of differnce in the actual pull of the knuckles.

upgraded to 92 4runner calpers and they are about 3/4 inch wider so there isnt much clearance between the rim.
 
buy a star or delete some of your old pics
 
:bounce2:Well I guess I will be starting this ROTM sooner than i thought. Had planned for the start of March and to include the maiden voyage to the Northwest Territories from Fort McMurray, Alberta. It would be almost 500 km of winter ice roads and take us to the 60th parallel. The other rig will be ARNOTT1 and his HJ60:bounce:
 
Might as well start off with the beginning. I got the truck in May 2008 with a broken rear spring pack. Truck ran well, wasnt to beat and everything still worked. I guess I should mention exactly how it broke. Seems like the owner thought it best to pull a wheelie with his Can Am 800 quad and slam it into the box instead of getting out ramps. Makes sense? So instead of replacing the pack he went out and bought a fullsize.

First intention was to replace the springs and use it as a parts getter for my work but the more I kept thinking about it the more I leaned to a SAS expedition rig. I would still be able to run around town instead of drving my work truck and could then take off for the weekend with the taco.

A few months passed with a busy summer and realized that I have less into this truck then it would cost me for a beat down mid 90's.

It began with ordering a set of Emu Dakar 2" rear springs and shocks. A lot of grief getting the pins out and rusted bushings but it was back on the road. I needed to actually drive the truck to see what I was actually dealing with before I got deep into it.

Sure enough it ran great, shifted well, has great heat, and again most little things worked ( light, turn signals, AC, wipers..... ). Just a little more confidence that this truck wont just be a wheelin truck.
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Not long after that pic the IFS started to poop the bed and just wasnt going to go hold up. I know I have seen lots of IFS trucks be more than capable. There was a lot of neglect prior that was taking the toll. In 10 days I went through two drivers side CV shafts, and lower ball joint. The terrain we have up here is really soft with steep hills. The muskeg just sucks you down and isnt IFS friendly when you start flaoting across the skeg.

The first time the CV let go I was buried and took the work truck to get it out.

Second time we were able to drive home puckered up and luckily the balljoint didnt let go at the top of the hill.:D
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Since getting the truck there were many different ideas tossed around:

Waggy Dana 44 / rancho 44044 front springs / Lefty tcase / bob bed / SOA / one ton axles / dual cases / turbo on 3.4 / 40's

The list could go on but, two months ago it finally had a direct route and here it goes the short list:


-1987 HJ60 front axle
-1982 gear driven mini truck case ( pass drop )
-Marlin 3.4 adapter plate
-HJ60 front springs
-Ford Explorer rear springs
-rear track bar
-Northwest Fab hysteer
-TG Magnum studs
-HJ60 steering box
-1992 4Runner calipers
-FJ80 rod ends
-pitman arm drilled for FJ80
-front axle truss
-rear discs
-4.88 gears
-Aussie locker front and rear
-WARN 8274
-2X4 sliders
-Cobra CB radio
-15X8 steelies
-37X12.5X15 Goodyear MTR
-Twin Stick
-T Case E-Brake
-roof rack / canoe rack with light bar
-drawers in bed toolbox
 
Began cleaning housing, and disassembling entire axle to rebuild the knuckles and inspect everything. The factory gears were 3.70 and was amazed at how much crap came out of the axle when the 3rd was pulled. I got the basic knuckle rebuild kit since the wheel bearings at others seemed in good shape. The nrealized that since it is all apart and clean that should replace axle seals, upper and lower king pin bearings and races. I used POR15 on the knuckles to see how it stands up.

The dust shield on the disc had to be modified to fit the 4runnner calipers. Only left the bottom portion around the mouting surface and the piece attached to the brake line. The rotors measured out within spec but would not be suprised if I replace them after a while.

Anyone use Marlins slotted rotors?

Upon reassembling the hysteer and getting the shims adjusted the new studs seem to stick out really far. They are buried up to the shoulder and torqued to 25 ft lbs. The new shims had to be swapped out for the thicker one because I couldnt get anywhere near the torque spec. At about 40 ft lbs you couldnt even move it at all.

Unfortunately the drag link is still at the shop waiting for my measurement so that it can be built to the proper length.

The spring perches will be left alone right now until the springs are hung under the truck. I fabbed a quick set to use just incase ( when ) we have to rotate for a petter pinion angle.
 
The front hangers are built out of 4 X 4 X 1/4 and are a touch wide on the inside but should be strong enough for sure. Boxed the end just to make sure. Using Trail Tamer bushings and 3/4in grade 8 bolts.They are really snug but will work fine since we drilled and tapped them for grease zerks. Didnt think of it at the time but the cruiser springs might be a little short at 39 inches eye to eye. The front bumper will have to be trimmed as well as the fender. Should ahve a good approach angle though?
 
Why keep that little bit of dust shield? Go with a single brake hose from the axle bracket to the caliper. The p/n is in the Trivia http://www.ih8mud.com/techtrivia.php Napa 38881 (long) or 38878 (short).
 
Finally rolled into the garage to start cutting. Had a few minor issues that I will have to deal with once all the IFS is completely out. At first look I thought the upper control arm bracket was seperate from the motor mount but as you can see obviously not:eek:. Picrture looks worse then it is. The hoses only had the shielding melted. Good indication to turn down the plasma.

Could be just me but learned that with a dirty, rusty truck the closer you move the ground clamp to torch better it works.
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