Measured the body mount bolts (2 Viewers)

[dafun1]

Here are the measurements I got on my 96 FZJ80 on the stock body mount bolt lengths:

Front-175mm
Middle-110mm
Rear-125mm

There are obviously five total mounts on each side so by middle I'm referring to the three in the middle. I'm sure this is somewhere in the FSM but I do not believe it has been posted. For those looking to do a body lift and supply there own hardware, this should help. Also, I know Roger Brown is a great guy and if you don't have access to fab tools for free then you can pay the very INEXPENSIVE price for him to fab the UHMW polyethylene for you, but you can buy 2'' diamter UHMW rod for $6.95 a foot at Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies. Search UMHW then pick rod. Roger dyes the natural white black for $1.00 a puck, so if you want it black you would either have to get some reprocessed black rod from another fender (grainger has it) or find the dye yourself. I'm not trying to undermine Roger's business, I'm just on a very tight budget by the . I went with 3/8'' standard hardware (Just under the stock M10 at 9.5mm) 8'' in the front, 5'' middle, and 5.5'' rear. Total was around $37!

 

[dafun1]

I'm obviously doing a 1'' body lift with the new bolts being 1'' longer...

 

[dafun1]

Actually after measuring for 1" I'm going 3/8" x 5.5" in rear and middle and 3/8" x 8" up front. That will do it. Not that anyone really paid attention to this thread anyways. Take care

 

[Ebag333]

Not that anyone really paid attention to this thread anyways. Take care

I was, and it's great info.

For some reason body lifts aren't popular here in the States (or at least here on Mud). You go over to the Aussie forums and there's tons of discussion on them (perhaps even more so than suspension lifts).

 

[retrofive]

LOL your thread did not go un-noticed , been debating a body lift on mine as well. Great info and sources! thanks for sharing.

 

[motorcoach123]

Hey d1

Iron Yuppy did a nice thread on body lifts......https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/206908-product-review-4crawler-roger-brown-1-body-lift.html
I think he has all the bolt dimentions as well!
Good luck!

Gord

 

[Ebag333]

I think he has all the bolt dimentions as well!

Nope, that's one thing he's missing (unless it got ninja updated last time I checked).

 

[dafun1]

Yeah both the write-ups on the 1'' 4crawler body lift did not specify the stock bolt length, though a few folks were asking. I'm going to pull all the second nuts and post some pics of how many mm/inches you will have extra and what bolts I end up chosing and how much mm is left on them as a kind of before and after. You could reuse the front bolt but it would be close (it has 29mm left after the 2nd nut is remove and that would give you 3.6mm of thread of left after the nut). My current thoughts on bolt length is 7'' up front (just 2.8 mm longer than stock...my stock bolts are pretty corroded so I'm replacing-would have gone with 8'' but I would have run out of thread on the bolts I can get locally). Middle bolts are going to be 5'' and rear 5.5" all 3/8'' standard hardware. And thanks for the replies. Oh and ebagg, and others who have done this, are there pics out there of tranny linkage adjusment? I'm sure its in the FSM, but mud write-ups are great visuals. I'll post my pics when I make this happen. Take care

 

[Ebag333]

Oh and ebagg, and others who have done this, are there pics out there of tranny linkage adjusment? I'm sure its in the FSM, but mud write-ups are great visuals. I'll post my pics when I make this happen. Take care

No pictures dafunnnnnn.

It's incredibly easy. When you crawl under your truck to look, you really can't miss it. Passenger's side of the tranny. Super easy to do.

I had the push forward pretty hard on the shifter while I loosened it, it popped into place and then I tightened it back up. Maybe 3 minutes, 2.5 of which were reiterating for her not to run me over.


Now if someone can figure out how to get to the linkage for the T-Case, that is adjustable. Just sitting on top of the t-case, which makes it almost impossible to get to.

 

[dafun1]

Yeah Ebag...sorry about the extra "g". I don't know what happened on that one. Thanks for the tranny linkage info. Roger Brown has that short throw t-case case shifter kit that raises the shift point. I don't think at 1'' it would be necessary (you would know for real b/c you have a 1'' body lift installed), but at 2'' it would work like champ instead of cutting the shifter and welding it 180 degrees. That is if he made one for the series 80 but I don't know if the ones he has for the tacos and 4runners fit our t-cases. At 2'' though much more than t-case shifter comes into play, but that has been discussed many times. Yeah I had to be deprogrammed from the brainwashing of american pop culture that body lifts were for the weak and poor and that the only pure way to lift a vehicle was increasing lift through suspension. It is simply ignorance. I don't think there is a mod with more bang for the buck than a 1'' body lift. Maybe a rear Aussie locker if you have open diffs (next mod after breathers/selaing distributor), but man I'm about get 1'' of lift with out having to worry about caster, driveline vibes, etc for less than $40! Theoretically that is 2" of tire, which does not always translate into reality, but I have ironman 2'' coils up front (same as OME 851's) and OME 862's in the rear with stock shocks and I know after the 1'' body lift and some mild trimming I can run 37's. Will I have to drop rear bumpstop? Of course, but everybody does. The real thing to worry about at 1'' is the fan shroud, but that can easily be dealt with correct? So I think it comes down to the fact that people want to buy mass produced armor and don't like how it looks 1'' lower. I will be fabbing the armor myself or having it custom fabbed, so I don't really care. To each his own, but if you want to run 36-37'' tires on a budget, slap a 1'' body lift on top of 2-2.5" lift, trim a little, drop the rear stops, and your there. Will you be limited on articulation/travel? Some, but like has been said before, if you were struggling with 35's on the trails you run, then you will be struggling that much less with 37's. Obviously wheel backspacing has a crucial role in tire fitment as well, but when factored in correctly with what I said, 37's are a reality. Much, if not all of this has been said through many posts, I just wanted to let my thoughts out in a long rant. Flame away if the need arises folks...

 

[Ebag333]

Yeah Ebag...sorry about the extra "g". I don't know what happened on that one.

Don't worry about it, it happens. All too often, but oh well, whatcha gonna do.

Roger Brown has that short throw t-case case shifter kit that raises the shift point. I don't think at 1'' it would be necessary (you would know for real b/c you have a 1'' body lift installed), but at 2'' it would work like champ instead of cutting the shifter and welding it 180 degrees. That is if he made one for the series 80 but I don't know if the ones he has for the tacos and 4runners fit our t-cases.

It's not an issue for me, but I see how it could be depending on how the t-case is adjusted. I don't have much room between the housing and the shifter, it's narrow enough that if I stick my finger between the two while in low it'll pinch it...pretty hard too.

I'd like to adjust it, but without extending the t-case shifter, or cutting and welding. If you could fit a small bender in there you might be able to do it that way, and put a little bend/kink in it.

I honestly don't know what Toyota was thinking by putting the adjustment in an essentially unreachable spot. Even with the 1" body lift I don't know I could get up there easily.

I don't believe Roger Brown has an extension available for the 80, would be nice if someone did.

Yeah I had to be deprogrammed from the brainwashing of american pop culture that body lifts were for the weak and poor and that the only pure way to lift a vehicle was increasing lift through suspension. It is simply ignorance. I don't think there is a mod with more bang for the buck than a 1'' body lift.

I agree.

In the Aussie forums, when someone asks what lift to get a commonly proposed solution is 2" suspension, 2" body. It doesn't seem people go for much over 2" on body, of course they go all the way up to crazy stuff like 7" suspension + 2" body.

The real thing to worry about at 1'' is the fan shroud, but that can easily be dealt with correct?

Yup. I just trimmed the rubber on the lower radiator mounts (you'll see the line for it) and redrilled the top mounts.

If I had more time I would have fabbed up new mounts for the bottom (probably still redrilled the top). I haven't had any issues though with cooling (at least not until my fan clutch crapped out).

It leaves the fan about a 1/2" lower than stock, and slightly off center, but no issues. If you don't trim the bushings or fab new mounts, you'll hit the bottom of the shroud and stick, meaning no fan at all.

So I think it comes down to the fact that people want to buy mass produced armor and don't like how it looks 1'' lower. I will be fabbing the armor myself or having it custom fabbed, so I don't really care.

A lot of the mass produced stuff would be easy to adjust to a body lift. Especially if you're just sticking with 1", it's not really noticeable at all. I barely notice mine with the OEM bumpers, even sitting next to the truck.

I just wanted to let my thoughts out in a long rant. Flame away if the need arises folks...

[Flame on]Use some paragraphs, and take a breath once in a while. [/Flame off]

 

[dafun1]

Yeah I've been known to lose conciousness from talking to much! Paragraphs would make sense. Yeah that is silly that the t-case linkage adjustment is virtually unreachable.

 

[donutfj80]

The shifter extension from 4crawler (Roger Brown) will fit on an 80.

 

[dafun1]

donut are you talking about the the short throw kit because the 80 t-case shifter doesn't unscrew from what I've seen.

 

[donutfj80]

Not the short throw kit, 2 and 3 inch shifter extension. Just unscrew the knob screw on the extension and put the knob back on.

 

[donutfj80]

with 3in extesion

 

[dafun1]

Yeah I just went outside to see and you are right on donut. I think the only issue would be if area in the body and plstic console piece has enough room even with the extension right? But at 1'' it shouldn't be that big of deal. Thanks donut for the intel man.

 

[IronYuppy]

Nope, that's one thing he's missing (unless it got ninja updated last time I checked).

Nope, forgot to measure 'em while they were out, and I lost them when I moved

The stock rear body bolts are long enough to re-use if you're only going up by an inch.

And FYI the TC shifter works fine as-is with a 1" body lift. If you find you're contacting the boot plate when shifting to low, just unscrew the knob one or two revolutions.

I'm going to add the Roger Brown extension, though, because the stock location is too low anyway.

 

[dafun1]

So I took the the 2nd nut off the bolts and took pics but my camera sucks and wouldn't focus and the pics are awful. Here are the measurements:

Front-1 1/8"
Middle-
PS/DS foot rest area in the corner toward the door-3/4"
PS/DS seat (inside back right (PS) or left (DS) leg)-3/4"
Outside of back seats on left and right-3/4"
Rear-1''

So the front would work, the rear would just barely have thread left and the middle would be a no go on a 1'' body lift. This is measured with just one nut on the bolts. I'm changing out the bolts and nuts because mine are nice and corroded...Guam.

 

[LittleRock80]

Thanks for the great information (all of you).

Question:

Would it be that difficult to raise say, an ARB or Shortbus 1" to compensate for the small gap left by a bodylift? Maybe redrill some holes or fab some small mounts? I obviously don't have either bumper or I would go and look, but I'm seriously considering the 1" bodylift SOON and aspire to one of the above bumpers someday.....

JWP