Matt got a tow rig

[cruisermatt]

I guess this means it’s time to build a more hardcore truck now

 

[Gwagg]

WOW

 

[FL cruiser]

Nice!!! How about some details.

 

[cruisermatt]

Nice!!! How about some details.

2006 F350, 6.0/ZF6 (6-speed stick), utility spec, manual windows, locks, seats, vinyl seats, floor, etc. 130K miles. AC ice cold.

 

[Sputnik40]

Definitely time to shed some DD weight and maybe even start on another platform.

It's commonly referred to as the Dark Side. Want for bigger tires, lighter more powerful engine, etc. etc. It's all downhill from here once you can trailer your junk home.

Congrats.

 

[cruisermatt]

Definitely time to shed some DD weight and maybe even start on another platform.

It's commonly referred to as the Dark Side. Want for bigger tires, lighter more powerful engine, etc. etc. It's all downhill from here once you can trailer your junk home.

Congrats.

Thanks. And yeah different platform altogether. No point in wheeling my wagon anymore besides cross-country “expedition type trips”.

What I am really wanting to
build is basically a mirror of your 40 in terms of tires/ride height/body, but in Capri blue.

This has been my inspiration pic for a few months

 

[orion]

Nice dually...congrats!

Looking forward to seeing what chassis you find to build.

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

The way it will go will probably be about a year of subassemblies and parts gathering (build a powertrain), acquire axles, build diffs, then find a frame and tube to put it all in. Then cage suspension etc..
I have a pretty solid plan laid out already in terms of what parts to use. It will be pretty much all Cruiser stuff with the exception of either an SM420 or 465. Probably 465.

 

[Sputnik40]

Too funny. I am admittedly biased to how my 40 "used" to look and admittedly happy for how well it does considering the limitations of that big heavy 2F, etc. While I'm partial to 40's and more so how you sit in one versus a mini truck or a buggy (claustrophobic) - I'd encourage you to think long and hard about building up a mini-truck or buggy before you commit. Also, lot of folks swear auto is the way to go.

If you're still dead set - I still have this spare 75 frame down here that I wanted to use to mock up my 4-link, yours for the taking if you can help me design a new cross member that allows me to go double triangulated with the offset t-case, or some help bending the new cage, or....whatever. I've already cut off the rear portion - but still have it, and it's fairly solid with exception to the radiator and engine mounts that the prior owner hacked when they did a v8 swap.

Otherwise - looking forward to seeing the build.

 

[cruisermatt]

Too funny. I am admittedly biased to how my 40 "used" to look and admittedly happy for how well it does considering the limitations of that big heavy 2F, etc. While I'm partial to 40's and more so how you sit in one versus a mini truck or a buggy (claustrophobic) - I'd encourage you to think long and hard about building up a mini-truck or buggy before you commit. Also, lot of folks swear auto is the way to go.

If you're still dead set - I still have this spare 75 frame down here that I wanted to use to mock up my 4-link, yours for the taking if you can help me design a new cross member that allows me to go double triangulated with the offset t-case, or some help bending the new cage, or....whatever. I've already cut off the rear portion - but still have it, and it's fairly solid with exception to the radiator and engine mounts that the prior owner hacked when they did a v8 swap.

Otherwise - looking forward to seeing the build.

Have you considered playing with your geometry numbers to make a layout like this work? Basically, a lot less triangulation on the lowers but no crossmember. Not sure offhand what that would do to drivability.

 

[cruisermatt]

Too funny. I am admittedly biased to how my 40 "used" to look and admittedly happy for how well it does considering the limitations of that big heavy 2F, etc. While I'm partial to 40's and more so how you sit in one versus a mini truck or a buggy (claustrophobic) - I'd encourage you to think long and hard about building up a mini-truck or buggy before you commit. Also, lot of folks swear auto is the way to go.

If you're still dead set - I still have this spare 75 frame down here that I wanted to use to mock up my 4-link, yours for the taking if you can help me design a new cross member that allows me to go double triangulated with the offset t-case, or some help bending the new cage, or....whatever. I've already cut off the rear portion - but still have it, and it's fairly solid with exception to the radiator and engine mounts that the prior owner hacked when they did a v8 swap.

Otherwise - looking forward to seeing the build.

Also, I’ve decided on a 40 against a mini for a few reasons, none of them practical

 

[Oscar Witte]

Nice truck, my personal favorite gen of the super duties. Any plans on bulletproofing?

 

[cruisermatt]

Nice truck, my personal favorite gen of the super duties. Any plans on bulletproofing?

Right now it is completely original and stock. The current plan is to install a coolant filter, and replace the oil cooler and EGR cooler. As well as full coolant flush.

 

[Sputnik40]

I have. That would be my second choice. Most seem to just go bottom or outside of frame rail for simplicity's sake, but I always cringed when I saw how much rear steer that created.

I've been all talk for years. Currently trying to part out the Rover to make space to work on the 40. Let me know if you have any connections with your former employer - have a crap ton of rover 88" NOS and spares.

Have you considered playing with your geometry numbers to make a layout like this work? Basically, a lot less triangulation on the lowers but no crossmember. Not sure offhand what that would do to drivability.

View attachment 1560219

 

[Sputnik40]

Here's a couple of shots of Foldens 40 - coulda swore I had more, but will have to keep looking.

 

[cruisermatt]

Dad and I are working on the 6.0 today. New EGR cooler, oil cooler, block flush, coolant filter instal, and and oil change. Intake manifold had 1/4” of crud in it.
Should be good for another 150K.

 

[cruisermatt]

Done. What a complete pain this job was. I can’t imagine doing head work on one of these things with the cab on. I now can see why everyone pulls the cabs.
I still have a minor boost leak I’m trying to chase down. Need to smoke test it.

 

[FloridaCruiser813]

Why a coolant filter? Is that common practice on the 6.0 and why ?

 

[cruisermatt]

Why a coolant filter? Is that common practice on the 6.0 and why ?

Honestly Justin, I more I work on this thing the more I’m convinced that the “design flaws” and unreliability people characterize these motors with can be attributed almost completely to a complete lack of maintenance.

Coolant filter is common practice on these rigs, people say that sediments from sand casting of the block come loose into the coolant, but every iron engine block is sand casted so I’m guessing it’s likely that people are just running the original coolant in their truck at 200k and it’s dirty. The water in mine was crystal clear.

 

[FloridaCruiser813]

It had a few design flaws with class action lawsuits to prove it but once sorted out or bullet proofed people say it’s a great engine.

We had a lot of problems with them as fleet vehicles at work. Run hard little to no maintenance thOugh. We don’t have any of those problems with the current fleet still run hard no maintenance.