matchmarks? (1 Viewer)

[Arizona Wilderness]

I am trying to remove the camshafts. At this step, the FSM says "[p]lace the matchmarks on the camshaft timing gear and timing chain." See attachment.

I don't see any marks. Is this saying that I need to scratch the gear and the chain to make a mark?

 

[Arizona Wilderness]

 

[quasi]

when the crankshaft is at TDC, there are marks at 3 and 9 o'clock on the inside of the cam sprockets, looking at the back sides. 2 dots line up to 1 dot, with the opposite dots lining up to the top surface of the head. my work computer doesn't show your posted pictures, so I can't refer to them at all.

 

[ajax1]

Set it at top dead now look at the chain sprocket for a dot at top 1200 clock now run piece wire thru the link that is lined up to that dot then remove gear and chain

 

[AlaskanLX450]

If the crank is at TDC but the cam marks are not visible or lined up where they should be, you are probably at top center on the exhaust stroke. Rotate the crank 180 and the cam marks should fall right into place.

Follow the next instructions carefully, walk the cams out by the book or you can damage the cam shafts. It seems intimidating, but once you start backing out the cam tower bolts 1/4 turn at a time and the cams start to rise from the head it makes sense.

 

[LINUS]

Set it at top dead now look at the chain sprocket for a dot at top 1200 clock now run piece wire thru the link that is lined up to that dot then remove gear and chain

Guessing you (OP) -are doing a head pull / HG job.

I did as @ajax1 -just zipties, but exact same concept.

And I will add the 1FZ is the singularly most well indexed motor I've R & R'ed - VW could take a page from Mr. T

 

[Red Merle]

Guessing you (OP) -are doing a head pull / HG job.

I did as @ajax1 -just zipties, but exact same concept.

And I will add the 1FZ is the singularly most well indexed motor I've R & R'ed - VW could take a page from Mr. T

I agree. I have never done a HG or any car repair that involved until this fall. The FSM is really good except for a few unnecessary steps and the index marks on everything make the job pretty easy. I was nervous too, but once I got it all back together, it fired right up and runs like a dream.

 

[Arizona Wilderness]

Set it at top dead now look at the chain sprocket for a dot at top 1200 clock now run piece wire thru the link that is lined up to that dot then remove gear and chain

This is great advice, thanks.

 

[LINUS]

I just thought I'd add a post for all the guys who do a headgasket themselves based on confidence of other motor work, or even this being their 1st motor job - I never had a SOHC 3FE, but a 1FZ-FE with a FSM is a situation where this is the best motor to learn on, as far as seperating the head from the block.

Armed with a FSM, and following their steps will net you a solid result - if you go all fancy with ARP studs & nuts, or whatever - the job is super simple like a Lego set as a kid & same result -- a cool working toy.

I stand by where I cut my lower intake manifold to bypass pulling the harness between the runners, but I've had to wield a sawzall / 4.5" grinder / plasma torch / oxy ax - all as a skilled artist in a chem refinery setting.

If you are confident with a sawzall, I posted a decade back how to make it happen, esp since I couldn't get fingers on the 2 trans wire sockets I saw I needed to hit. My ex wasn't into it (princess mentality) so I'm the guy who chopped my lower mani & to this day (about 35K since) - it's fine.

Radius the edges, add a little sleeve on the harness (used 1/16" sheet rubber wrapped in 3M Super 33+) - and even thar was overkill. No wear marks on the tape, that 80 has 138K on it, and original motor mounts.

At any rate wanted to add a post where these motors aren't rocket surgery- a FSM & all proper tools will net you a successful job in your own garage.

Just pull your bumper, and even your core support if you want to do a front main seal - that beats a chiropractor visit leaning over all that crap.

 

[Red Merle]

I just thought I'd add a post for all the guys who do a headgasket themselves based on confidence of other motor work, or even this being their 1st motor job - I never had a SOHC 3FE, but a 1FZ-FE with a FSM is a situation where this is the best motor to learn on, as far as seperating the head from the block.

Armed with a FSM, and following their steps will net you a solid result - if you go all fancy with ARP studs & nuts, or whatever - the job is super simple like a Lego set as a kid & same result -- a cool working toy.

I stand by where I cut my lower intake manifold to bypass pulling the harness between the runners, but I've had to wield a sawzall / 4.5" grinder / plasma torch / oxy ax - all as a skilled artist in a chem refinery setting.

If you are confident with a sawzall, I posted a decade back how to make it happen, esp since I couldn't get fingers on the 2 trans wire sockets I saw I needed to hit. My ex wasn't into it (princess mentality) so I'm the guy who chopped my lower mani & to this day (about 35K since) - it's fine.

Radius the edges, add a little sleeve on the harness (used 1/16" sheet rubber wrapped in 3M Super 33+) - and even thar was overkill. No wear marks on the tape, that 80 has 138K on it, and original motor mounts.

At any rate wanted to add a post where these motors aren't rocket surgery- a FSM & all proper tools will net you a successful job in your own garage.

Just pull your bumper, and even your core support if you want to do a front main seal - that beats a chiropractor visit leaning over all that crap.

Why? Why would you even bother with the lower half of the clamshell? Just leave all of that stuff where it it is. Why?

 

[LINUS]

Why? Why would you even bother with the lower half of the clamshell? Just leave all of that stuff where it it is. Why?[/QUOTE

I don't want to freak anybody but the chain guides & the front main seal come to mind without starting a whole debate. Just be happy your Landcruiser 'marks its' territory' - chasing oil leaks would mean 150-200% investment in just a leak-free motor.

I really don't want to delve into that world, you can if you choose but don't drag me along, OK?

 

[Red Merle]

I don't want to freak anybody but the chain guides & the front main seal come to mind without starting a whole debate. Just be happy your Landcruiser 'marks its' territory' - chasing oil leaks would mean 150-200% investment in just a leak-free motor.

I really don't want to delve into that world, you can if you choose but don't drag me along, OK?

OK, I am really curious about this, but I am afraid to ask.

How does cutting the clamshell make it easier to do the front main seal?

 

[LINUS]

@Red Merle

The part I cut is the area that the entire wire harness loops through that one opening in the lower intake manifold.

I spaced my manifold out, and got in there with a sawz-all. 2 cuts and I took out the flange portion, dressed my cuts once out so it doesn't have any sharp edges.

I'll add that I use a sawz-all so much it's a surprise if I ever damage something, so you won't find a ding anywhere from my cut. It's a go-to tool for corroded hardware if we can't use a cutting torch in the refinery on lighter hydrocarbon processes.

What it netted me was I didn't & wouldn't in future work need to unplug the harness, I can just unbolt the lower intake once you get at all those nuts.

People thought it odd when I did it, but hey - we all have our stuff, right?

It worked great, and it's not like you need that flange on the intake side as long as you leave the areas where that steel gasket seals each runner on either side of the wire harness opening.

 

[Red Merle]

@Red Merle

The part I cut is the area that the entire wire harness loops through that one opening in the lower intake manifold.

I spaced my manifold out, and got in there with a sawz-all. 2 cuts and I took out the flange portion, dressed my cuts once out so it doesn't have any sharp edges.

I'll add that I use a sawz-all so much it's a surprise if I ever damage something, so you won't find a ding anywhere from my cut. It's a go-to tool for corroded hardware if we can't use a cutting torch in the refinery on lighter hydrocarbon processes.

What it netted me was I didn't & wouldn't in future work need to unplug the harness, I can just unbolt the lower intake once you get at all those nuts.

People thought it odd when I did it, but hey - we all have our stuff, right?

It worked great, and it's not like you need that flange on the intake side as long as you leave the areas where that steel gasket seals each runner on either side of the wire harness opening.

Very interesting. I would have never even thought to do that, but it does make sense and as long as it works, great!