Master Thread P/Ns with Photos (Belts & Hoses) (1 Viewer)

[jaymar]

Thought it might be useful for folks to post photos (and helpful hints) like these in different categories. I'll start off with Belts & Hoses because that's what I'm doing now. It can take hours to track down the right P/Ns; this should save a lot of folks a lot of time. If all such threads are named "Master Thread P/Ns with Photos (Whatever)" they'll be easy to find.

FZJ80 VALVE COVER HOSES:

NOTE you'll have to clamp these hoses at both ends; the oem wire loops on mine had lost tension and could not be used. Old and new shown below.

================================================================

FZJ80 MANIFOLD HOSES (UNDERNEATH):

NOTE: Everything can be reached with big hands or with a pair of bent-tip needle-nose pliers or needle-nose vice grips, if the valve cover is off. Used pliers to help get the vacuum control valve out of and back into the clip, to get the -05212 hose off and all the way on the valve cover-side nipple, and needle-nose vice grips to place and release the clips. Dealer illustration and dealer parts guy may give you a different number for the vacuum control valve; do not believe them--this is the correct P/N. Vacuum and straight hose must be cut to length. I did not replace the little T connector, so do not have that P/N but will post it later if still available.

NOTE: The hose shown at bottom left (runs to the charcoal canister) has been discontinued. Use 1/4" fuel hose.

Continued in next post (I've reached my 5-photo max)...

 

[jaymar]

Continuing...

FZJ80 MANIFOLD HOSES (UNDERNEATH):

Old shown with new:

NOTE: Some of the larger hoses are fuel or fuel vapor hoses; do not substitute something else just because you happen to have it on-hand.

================================================================================

FZJ80 BELTS: Gates P/Ns. A/C belt on right.

Why did I change belts? Seemed time...

NOTE: Don't bother sliding the alternator just a little, or backing the tensioner bolt out just a smidge--swing that alt all the way down and back that bolt until it's almost ready to fall out. Otherwise you'll wind up stretching the belts.

========================================================

 

[fz1boxer]

great write up and pics thanks for the info

 

[Desert Dino]

 

[Desert Dino]

you should do Master Thread on engine Oil Seals too

 

[jonheld]

I find it kind of odd that you used Gates belts as opposed to OEM.
ALTERNATOR BELT SET OF 2 - Toyota (90916-02353-83)
AC Belt - Toyota (99332-10910-83)

If I'm reading this correctly, the set of 3 OEM belts are less expensive.

 

[1911garand]

This is awesome, thank you!

 

[bigredmachine]

If I'm reading this correctly, the set of 3 OEM belts are less expensive.

maybe it was just what was available at the time, when I had to change my belts I had to order them as they were not In stock

 

[jaymar]

I find it kind of odd that you used Gates belts as opposed to OEM.
ALTERNATOR BELT SET OF 2 - Toyota (90916-02353-83)
AC Belt - Toyota (99332-10910-83)

If I'm reading this correctly, the set of 3 OEM belts are less expensive.

Thanks for the oem P/Ns. Let's just say I have a Gates source. I'm using a lot of their Green Stripe. I plan to use only oem and Gates.

 

[jaymar]

you should do Master Thread on engine Oil Seals too

Yeah have a leaky main seal, waiting 'til I swap out the radiator. PO did squat on this rig; every hose was original--PHH included, complete with those lovely, joy-to-work-with oem clips in impossible locations. And don't you just love cotter pins on the firewall?

 

[jatree]

As someone who is just taking on baselining a new to me rig with not much done or documented - this is very helpful! Thank you. I wouldn't have even thought to look for the valve sub assembly vent or grommet. Look forward to contributing as I can.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Watching this thread as I do plan on doing some major work in the future and these PN will be handy when the time comes.

 

[jaymar]

Continuing...

FZJ80 THROTTLE BODY HOSES:

The long one is a water hose I like to call PHH #2, and it is as difficult in its own way as its neighbor the PHH. Here it is, top and bottom, new and old. Pretty much dead center in the photo below, near bottom left of throttle body mounting plate. This sucker winds down into the block just above and left of the PHH (which I'll detail later).

Here's the new one about to be stuffed down the hole...

NOTE: Old hose can probably be pulled off at both ends with fingers or bent-nose pliers; no need to fiddle with the clips, they come off with the hose. Clamp or clip new hose to throttle body before reattaching throttle body to manifold. Make sure the angle of the new hose matches the angle of the old hose. Stuff the lower end down beside the old hose.

This is where the PHH #2 attaches to the block (new hose with shiny clamp shown above still-attached old hose with clip). You can see the PHH (replaced with 52-inch Gates Green Stripe hose) attached at lower right with Breeze constant torque clamp. Starter is below and to right of these hoses, looking through the front DS wheel well.

Here's a better look at the little b*stard, which shows how impossible it is to access any clamp or clip from most angles. New hose in-place.

NOTE: Forget about getting the stock-size clamp on. I first thought I'd use a screw clamp, then saw the situation and thought I'd never make that work--and proceeded to spend 3 hours with needle-nose vice grips and bent-nose pliers, trying to get the thing on there. The clamp cannot be pushed over the nipple. Either that or I was using the wrong size clamp. So I put the screw clamp on, realized it had to face down on the left, took it off and put it on again. In a moment, I'll show you what it takes to tighten that screw, but here's the P/N shown with the old hose. They call it Hose, Water By-Pass. They call other hoses the same thing. It looks like a cobra, and by the time you're finished with it, you'll feel like it spit acid in your eyes and then bit you. Several times.

 

[jaymar]

Continuing...

FZJ80 THROTTLE BODY HOSES:

NOTE: Screwdriver is problematic, just gets your hopes up. Use socket with extensions / wobbly / joint as shown. Hold clamp in position until it's tight enough to not shift while tightening.

NOTE: Jack it up and remove the front DS wheel and skirt for ease of access. Well, easier access.

Here's the other throttle body "water by-pass hose" shown in-place. It comes off the front (right side) of the TB; the shiny clamp in photo is toward the bumper.

NOTE: Clamp this to the throttle body before remounting throttle body, and fit onto pipe before remounting as well.

Here (below) are both old throttle body water hoses. Note the missing clamp from PHH #2, which I tried to reuse but would not fit over the new hose where it bulged for the nipple.

 

[Tools R Us]

Why make it so difficult? I find it much easier with the correct clamps.

 

[jaymar]

Why make it so difficult? I find it much easier with the correct clamps.

The one I tried to use came off the old hose, and so was presumably the right clamp, as it was on the original hose. Go figure. [Add: Gates hose is thicker.]

 

[jaymar]

Continuing...

FZJ80 THROTTLE BODY HOSES:

When it comes to hoses that attach to the throttle body itself, here's a pic of everything you need, save the ventilation hose 12262-66021 mentioned (and pictured) in the first post. The installation position of the long hose at the top of this photo is shown in the first two photos of this thread--running front-to-back, between the two ventilation hoses.

NOTE: To my knowledge, all vacuum lines save the one at the brake booster are cut from straight vacuum hose. They don't look it because the old ones have fossilized in place, but they are. So for the small vac lines, buy the long vacuum hose (shown in photo above) and cut to fit with a Gates hose cutter. The oem hoses come with little white fields that let you write the number or symbol (found on the stock hoses) on the new hoses. Use a pen.

This photo shows the original, fossilized fuel hose still in place, just to the right of the original, fossilized vacuum line.To the left of the vacuum line, you can see the old PHH #2 peeking out like a cobra. Near bottom left, you'll see the other old water hose (just to the right of the new one) still attached to the throttle body. It mounts on the pipe directly to its right in this photo.

 

[cruisersurf]

Sorry if this is not an intelligent question as I'm not a mechanic. Is it ok to use vacuum hose for the hoses above that are not associated with water?

 

[jaymar]

Sorry if this is not an intelligent question as I'm not a mechanic. Is it ok to use vacuum hose for the hoses above that are not associated with water?

That would be a no, as in might burn your Cruiser to the frame if, say, fuel or fuel vapors eat the hose and then hit something hot. Vacuum hose for vacuum applications only.

 

[jaymar]

Finished view of PHH bypass hose.