Gotcha! Mine is a 14 model. Ni sound all of a sudden since last June. Sent the amp to OEM Auto Audio who tested it and said if was operational. Then thr next culprit was the rear seat module (Rear Moulti Display module) which I bought brand new via Japan seller on ebay, which dis not change anything. No matter what I still have a B15D0 code for MOST communication fault. I've tried jumpering the MOST connector as OEM auto suggested but I got nothing from that either. I'm just going to have to go over all the wiring again (third time). All fuses are good in all the stupid locations lexus put fuses for the entertainment/nav system.
Mark Levinson Amp - Fan Replacement (2011 LX570)
- Thread starter Ontherocks345
- Start date
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I just finished replacing the fans. One was almost dead with the wheel hardly spinning. The other was still good. The test with blocking the noisy one confirmed the need for repair before I started down this path.
I ordered the same part numbers as the originals from eBay (link). Almost the same as @trudd but with the wrong connector, like everyone else.
The issue I have is similar to @Grumvee , there is surging, and similar to @trudd , there is a rattle noise from both fans.
I tested the fans before disassembly the truck and the fans were running fine on full 12V. With the fans in the amp, I tested and it does not matter if one or both fans are plugged in, which one is plugged in, or to which PCB header they are connected. It does not matter if the fan is free in the air or bolted down into the grill. Although bolted down and installed in the amp makes it louder because the amp cavity amplifies the sound.
My observation is that when they are plugged in the amp they actually run at a much lower speed. I assume that the amp is controlling the speed of the fans (otherwise there is no point for Toyota to use a 3-wire fan). I think both the surging and the rattle are caused by the speed control. As there is only one way to control the speed for a 3-pin fan, and my good OEM fan was not making these noises, I assume the fans are low quality and do not behave well when driven at that speed. The surging can be caused by poor tacho signal on the yellow wire, while the rattle can only be explained by poor design/fabrication of the fan drive.
What is clear to me is that there are a lot of Y.S. Tech YW04510012LM fans out there and obviously some may be fake.
The sad part is that in order to test fans to see if they work or not, you have to pull the amp out and do some soldering. One easier way may be to purchase a computer fan control and rig a test bed.
For now, I'll have to put everything back and live with the new noise, that at least is lower, more pleasant than the old.
I'll love to see what others come up for testing these fans before taking the truck apart.
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I updated another thread on the subject of no sound with the problem I found and solution. The short of it is that at some point in time there was water intrusion into the foot well (likely before I owned it since it was dry down there and the drains are clear). That moisture/wetness seemed into the big connector for the wiring harness of the right side of the vehicle. That began the process of galvanic corrosion or electrolytic corrosion. When I pulled it apart I found multiple pins completely corroded and fallen apart, obviously bo longer making contact. Also, there seemed to be black spot or scorch marks around thise pins. The rest of the connecting harness had lots of the greenish crusty signs of galvanic corrosion.
I opted to replace the entire harness rather than deal with pulling out the affected wires and repinning them because when I cut I to the wires, there was corrosion making its way under the sheathing already along the length of the wire strands.
It was a bear to replace the entire harness as it spans the whole length of the passenger side to every single sensor and switch as well as out the back and bottom to the underside of the truck. But that definitely fixed my specific issue. Putting it back together I slathered on dielectric grease in the large connector to try and seal it better and prevent water intrusion again.
I opted to replace the entire harness rather than deal with pulling out the affected wires and repinning them because when I cut I to the wires, there was corrosion making its way under the sheathing already along the length of the wire strands.
It was a bear to replace the entire harness as it spans the whole length of the passenger side to every single sensor and switch as well as out the back and bottom to the underside of the truck. But that definitely fixed my specific issue. Putting it back together I slathered on dielectric grease in the large connector to try and seal it better and prevent water intrusion again.
Update to my previous post from May ... Mark Levinson Amp - Fan Replacement (2011 LX570) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/mark-levinson-amp-fan-replacement-2011-lx570.1214698/post-15944360
As you can see, I was not happy about the noise level/quality of the replacement fans. After driving for a month, I can say that while driving I cannot hear the noise no matter how hard I try or how smooth is the pavement. When I'm parked and the engine is off I have to really know what I have to listen for to hear it. The carpet and the close proximity of the chair are muffling the sound enough.
So, I'm declaring this a success.
One thing I did not mention is that I installed neoprene washers between the amp brackets and the floor pan on the side closer to the console (where the fans are), to reduce the amount of noise going from the amp into the pan (please see my original post how the amp case is amplifying the fan noise). I just used Everbilt 597960 (search on HomeDepot.com) 3/16x1-1/2" neoprene washer.
One more thing, some fans have a step for the screws heads to sink in. That is the case with the fans I've got on eBay (link in my post). You still have to drill them on the cage side, but now the screws will be too long for the fans. The solution is to use a small washer under the screw head to keep it on the face of the fan rather than sink in. See pic for what I'm talking about.
I did find that the wiring length and routing is important (contrary to other posts I read). As designed, they are held tight together and against the top of the case away from the fan airflow. Soldering them that way is not hard but a bit tedious. For a neat work I staggered the joints. If you already cut the original sleeve and forgot to measure its length is 55mm. I used two pieces instead of one to allow space for making all the splicing, but the overall length from end of one tube to the opposite end of the other shrinking tube is still 55mm.
As you can see, I was not happy about the noise level/quality of the replacement fans. After driving for a month, I can say that while driving I cannot hear the noise no matter how hard I try or how smooth is the pavement. When I'm parked and the engine is off I have to really know what I have to listen for to hear it. The carpet and the close proximity of the chair are muffling the sound enough.
So, I'm declaring this a success.
One thing I did not mention is that I installed neoprene washers between the amp brackets and the floor pan on the side closer to the console (where the fans are), to reduce the amount of noise going from the amp into the pan (please see my original post how the amp case is amplifying the fan noise). I just used Everbilt 597960 (search on HomeDepot.com) 3/16x1-1/2" neoprene washer.
One more thing, some fans have a step for the screws heads to sink in. That is the case with the fans I've got on eBay (link in my post). You still have to drill them on the cage side, but now the screws will be too long for the fans. The solution is to use a small washer under the screw head to keep it on the face of the fan rather than sink in. See pic for what I'm talking about.
I did find that the wiring length and routing is important (contrary to other posts I read). As designed, they are held tight together and against the top of the case away from the fan airflow. Soldering them that way is not hard but a bit tedious. For a neat work I staggered the joints. If you already cut the original sleeve and forgot to measure its length is 55mm. I used two pieces instead of one to allow space for making all the splicing, but the overall length from end of one tube to the opposite end of the other shrinking tube is still 55mm.
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Respected brother , can you tell me the location of this PIn out. Exact location with the picture please. Seems like under gloves box just wanted to re confirm if possible I LL be grateful
Hello. Yep, its under the passenger side kick panel. You need to remove the plastic trim panel there as well as on the door jamb.
Dear sir
I would like to request you if you can please confirm the location of the grip which u found rusty and pin was faulty the exact location. Will help me to find out the issue I am.strugling with this issue already wasted so much time and effort I replaced the amp head unit but ot no use can u please help in this regards
EDIT: Well the good news is that it's the butt-fan making the noise. The bad news is that it's summer in Texas and the extra little circulation is very welcome in this heat. One of my kid's treasures probably got shoved up under the seat and is touching the blades.
Already ordered replacement amp fans, so I'll have some spares sitting on the shelf in case they bite the dust.
Welp, I replaced the fans back in August of 2024 and upon startup this morning (July 2025), the fans sound insane.
I don't have a trained trained ear, but it sounds like it's running much faster than normal. Makes me wonder about what @doru about the amp throttling the RPMs, and if that somehow isn't happening now.
I'm going to preemptively order replacement fans. Will try to pull the amp and inspect in soon, but life is busy. Radio works just fine for now.
Already ordered replacement amp fans, so I'll have some spares sitting on the shelf in case they bite the dust.
I don't have a trained trained ear, but it sounds like it's running much faster than normal. Makes me wonder about what @doru about the amp throttling the RPMs, and if that somehow isn't happening now.
I'm going to preemptively order replacement fans. Will try to pull the amp and inspect in soon, but life is busy. Radio works just fine for now.
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The seat cooling fans have a rigid screen . You cannot touch the blades unless you remove it.
