Manifold Studs (1 Viewer)

[Straylight]

Engine is out of my FJ and I have removed the exhaust/intake manifolds. Question: The two bolts on each end of the exhaust manifold were just that, bolts not studs. Is it possible the PO had the studs back out and replaced them with bolts or is this the way it should be? Books are not clear on the subject.

Thanks

Straylight

 

[toddslater]

Should be studs (with brass nuts) down the line.

 

[Trevor]

What year is the engine? My '77 2F only had two studs (or was it four...I can't remember). The bolts on the ends were bolts, and they were a little smaller than all the others. Check the SOR webpage, I think it tells how many studs are required for the different years.

 

[toddslater]

Good point, mine is a 73 F.

 

[IDave]

On the F engine, at the rear end there is an engine lift hook that bolts on. Otherwise, 6 studs, 4 on top and 2 below.

 

[SpaceGhost]

The 2 outer exhaust manifold mounts are bolts. I replaced all my bolts with studs, all the way around. Also took a 1.5" hole saw and bored a hole in the firewall above the accelerator to make getting the last one tight easier. Of course I measured before I drilled the hole.

Not to be disagreable, but I have never seen brass nuts on the studs on any of the motors I've serviced, or dissasembled. Nor have I seen any studs in the outer ends. My 68 F only had the 2 centermost ones when I got it, the rest were bolts.

 

[IDave]

Mike,
I had 6 brass nuts on 6 studs on my 71 manifold, presumably OEM. I easily stripped out those brass nuts when I changed over to headers, trying to get a proper seal. I was wondering if you are referring to the engine hook bolt, or to the outer two of the center 6 when you refer to the outer bolts.
IDave

 

[rusty40]

f and a 2f are different

pretty sure that the 2f has fatter studs and also uses bolts

the f has studs with brass nuts and they are noticably smaller than the 2f studs

I was planning on putting my f manifold set on my 2f cuz I am missing pieces from the 2f maniflod exhaust flange and the intake looked like it had a crack in it directly under the carb I am suspecting that this is the cause of a faulty manifold valve. does anyone know if that flap valve in the exhaust maninfold can be rebuilt? mine seems to be seized

 

[cruzer]

DON'T EVEN GET ME STARTED!!! :G

actualy i just pulled my intake/exhaust manifold last week and went to put it back in and figured out the hard way that one of the PO had screwed a 1/2"course stud into the head with a fine 1/2" thread sticking out...needless to say i stripped that one out of the head :-[ and its the one at the back of the block so it is going to be a PITA to hellicoil.

I called JayMarks Toyota and had them order me all new studs/nuts/washers/bolts here is what i am getting that is OEM for a 75 2f

2 bolts (small ones for the end)
6 studs
6 washers
6 nuts


oh and it only cost me all of 14 dollars with my TLCA discount!!!! what a deal!!!

if you have any bolts other than the two end ones i would say that they are non OEM. I have also seen the Brass nuts at the auto parts stores that come with replacement studs

Stew

 

[CruisinGA]

f and a 2f are different

pretty sure that the 2f has fatter studs and also uses bolts

the f has studs with brass nuts and they are noticably smaller than the 2f studs

I was planning on putting my f manifold set on my 2f cuz I am missing pieces from the 2f maniflod exhaust flange and the intake looked like it had a crack in it directly under the carb I am suspecting that this is the cause of a faulty manifold valve. does anyone know if that flap valve in the exhaust maninfold can be rebuilt? mine seems to be seized

Get headers, when i replaced all the gaskets in the manifolds/carb, I noticed that there was no flap left in the exhaust manifold, which is cracked anyway. Without that flap you will be always heating up you intake, which could lead to a cracked intake. Or you could fix the flap in the closed position, which would just slow your warming up, but also prevent you from cracking an intake manifold.

 

[IDave]

I agree with Bailey, those flaps can get you into big trouble if they are in the wrong position.

I would question whether a 2F manifold will fit on an F engine. As Rusty40 said, the studs are a different size. &nbspoes anyone know for sure if they even match up?

 

[SpaceGhost]

Dave, I was refering to the outermost holes as was covered again earlier. I am running an F intake on my 79 2F. Took some minor clearancing for the larger studs. The 2 had a cracked intake, due to the flap. The ports will line up, same gaskets, but the stud size is different. The studs center the manifolds in place, so with some work the F items will work on the 2f's.

 

[OswaldtheBold]

Dave,
I just put a 2F ('74 or '75,I think) intake manifold on my '71F motor, with SOR headers. Fits OK.

 

[IDave]

Well, there you are. Kinda wish I'd known that a year ago. Might be useful for someone, tho: A functioning 2F heatriser on an F engine (those working heatrisers are few and far between, from what I can tell).

 

[Degnol]

Hey Dave,
I still haven't installed the header yet, and I'm going to install that 2F intake on my late '74F at the same time. &nbspo you think I should plan on replacing the studs at the same time? I did put on a new intake/exhaust gasket about 1500 miles ago and didn't break any off. When you say the 2F studs are larger, are the threaded holes in the head the same size? I mean could I get the studs for a 2F and run them in my F?
I've heard the late '74 F referred to as an F-and-a-half, as it seems to be a transition motor.
If you recommend new, is Toyo the best/only place to get them? We've got a local dealer that is receptive to digging for LC parts(Molle in KC) and offers discounts.
You thoughts??
Ed Long

 

[CruisinGA]

Go to SOR. They have them, Toyota parts. You might want to call them, when i tried to get all new bolts for my intake/exhaust manifolds, I got mixed up ordering them, and clicked on the wrong links I think.

 

[IDave]

Hey, Ed,

You haven't put on those SOR headers yet? What ya been doin? It's a 2 hour job! :G I see Mike Spaceghost really likes those headers. Wish they'd worked for me with my PTO winch. Ahh, well. Life's little compromises.

I bet you want to stick with the studs you have. It has been a while, but if I recall correctly the F studs just fit the header holes, and if you went to larger 2F studs you'd be drilling or grinding out the header half holes.

ID

 

[Degnol]

Hey Dave,
I know I look like a slacker, but when I tear into it, I'm going to install the minitruck PS, change out the waterpump with the two groove pulley, install the header and new manifold with the fluid heat riser, swap out the alternator to the pass side to make room for the PS pump, and change the valve cover to the cast alum one to change to the 2F aircleaner, as my F aircleaner sits where the PS pump will go. Oh, and I'm changing to the later, tapered, adjustable centerarm, too. While I'm at it, I'm going to pull the radiator and boil it out before reinstalling. Outsida that, not much going on...heh, heh.
I'm real anal about having all the parts on hand, so I can minimize CDT, cruiser down time.
I'll let you know when it's all done. If I can figger out how to get those pesky pics outa my camera and on to my computer, I'll post some.
Ed

 

[aZ..fj-40]

Hi Ed, I'm Earl, and should tell you that I,m in the middle of a mini p/s conversion, and I mounted my pump, out of a early '80's Chevette diesel, I think Toyota built them for GM.
I fabed the pieces of the mount, mounted the rear of the pump to the air cleaner mounting plate, the one from the head to the cleaner bucket, and a bar to the water pump bolt.
The pump is solidly mounted, and will be runby the same belt as the smog pump. That belt will miss the water pump, so that will be driven by the one to the a/c pump, an idler pulley, the water pump, and the alternator. I know it sounds wierd on a '74 f&1/2, but in Tucson I need the a/c. I'll buy or build the mini box mount, and had to move the fan forward 1-1/4"
with a spacer to clear the p/s pump.
By the way, what header did you get?         Earl

 

[Degnol]

Earl,
I bought a SOR two piece 3 into 1 x 2 header from IDave. I also bought the PS pump mount and the PS gearbox mount from WDorry@yahoo.com. He's a machinist and his work is very clean and strong. His advice which I am following; install the two groove pulley on the water pump and have one belt run the water pump and alternator. Have the other belt run the waterpump and the PS pump. If you trash a belt, you can still get home. I like that Idea. Another thing I like about Bill Dorry's pump mount is that it does not use the head bolts for mounting, it uses the motormount bolts and as you described, the waterpump bolts, actually a stud, which he provides, that replaces the waterpump bolt.
My rig is a DD primarily, offroader occaisionally, and I'm looking for more creature comforts while trying to remain as stock as possible, hence the mini truck PS conversion.
Where did you get the spacer for the fan as I have belt clearance issues, too?
Thanks for the reply,
Ed Long