Manifold Makeover

[Ferntucky]

First off, a disclaimer: I have not run the engine with the manifold, so I do not have first-hand knowledge Re thermal response.

That said, I read about an exhaust manifold treatment that seemed to make sense to me. For this process, a dry graphite spray, called "slip plate" is used. The article can be found here How to Restore an Exhaust Manifold

The basics are:
1) prep the manifold. Bead-blasting would have been nice, but I just have a grinder and a cup brush. I first applied naval jelly, then brushed the mani with a wire brush and washed it, then ran the cup brush, then cleaned it with brake cleaner.

2) Mask-off the gasket mating surfaces. I masked the studs as well, as I did not know how the graphite product would affect torque on the threads.

3) Spray several light coats of Slip Plate onto the manifold. This stuff dries fast, but will run if applied heavy.

4) The finished look is a dull, dark grey, UNTIL the manifold is wiped with a cloth. Then, the surface shines up a bit, and looks pretty good IMO.

From what I read, the graphite can tolerate high heat, and the product definitely got into the pores of the metal. I like the look, but only time (and driving) will tell how durable this stuff is.
Anyone else out there try this process before? @J Mack @scrapdaddy

Before

After prep

After spray and wipe-down

Got it at Napa for $9.99

 

[Ferntucky]

@davegonz
The article said the product held up to exhaust temps. As I do not have first-hand experience, I cannot vouch for the veracity of their findings. The literature provided by the manufacturer of "Slip Plate" says it functions up to 450F. I do not, however, know what what they mean by "functions". Obviously, I expect my exhaust manifold to exceed 450F, so we shall see.......

 

[scrapdaddy]

Looks good, but I never heard of it. Be nice if it stays that way. Is it supposed to hold off rust?

 

[J Mack]

Look up “galvanic corrosion” as it applies to graphite lubricant, I don’t know that it will be an issue but you should be aware of it with the dissimilar metals of the manifold, gaskets and hardware.

I believe graphite can withstand continuous temps up to 850°f and higher peak temps but you may bake out some of the binders Slip Plate adds to the spray, cool idea thanks for sharing..

 

[Ferntucky]

@J Mack
I didn't even think of galvanic corrosion bring an issue, as the metals/semi metal are not in an electrolytic fluid media. But, moisture no doubt gets to the manifold, so I suppose corrosion is possible. Interesting thought. And yeah, the binders may be the weak link.

@scrapdaddy
From what I read, the graphite lubricant is supposed to stay intact and keep rust at bay. Again though, I wouldn't run out to Napa just yet. The Slip Plate does look like it has some good ag uses though

Worst case scenario I figure is that this stuff burns off, and then I'm on to BBQ paint......

 

[bobm]

If you use a piece of Sacrificial material (like the bare aluminum find on outboards). It may keep the manifold from corroding.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

that's a nice finish. I just cured my manifolds in cooking oil on the BBQ. not sure how functional it is. CAlifornia rust is SLOW....

 

[Ferntucky]

If you use a piece of Sacrificial material (like the bare aluminum find on outboards). It may keep the manifold from corroding.

On my outboards I put zinc on the bottom fin, but yeah, same principle. I'm not convinced that galvanic corrosion will be an issue here. Like J Mack noted, the main issue could maybe possibly be with the fasteners. I did not spray the gasket mating surfaces.

 

[Ferntucky]

that's a nice finish. I just cured my manifolds in cooking oil on the BBQ. not sure how functional it is. CAlifornia rust is SLOW....

I saw that just the other; read through your entire build thread

Some old timers I know swear by "Pam" cooking spray and the wife's oven

 

[J Mack]

I'm not convinced that galvanic corrosion will be an issue here. Like J Mack noted, the main issue could maybe possibly be with the fasteners. I did not spray the gasket mating surfaces.

Agree, Graphite is the most noble material in the galvanic series of metals and therefore strongly cathodic, If it were going to give you issue it wouldn’t be apparent until you dissemble and things like the EGT probe hardware could take a bit more effort to remove. Again not trying to cause alarm, it’s doubtful it’s an issue in this application but the process is counter intuitive, a bit like rubbing bacon grease on yourself before jumping in the shark tank, not something I would try but could be pure genius!!

If you want a coating to paint the turbo checkout NIC coatings. They offer a coating that’s good to 2000°f and it’s air cure so you can spray it at home with any type little sprayer.

They offer a 34OZ tester size for $35.00 and it would be enough to coat your manifold and turbo and still have a little leftover.

This link is for Cerakote Glacier Black I used but they have other colors,

http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/finishes/C-7600Q/cerakote-glacier-black/

 

[Ferntucky]

Thanks for the link, I really like the titanium and tungsten!

For some reason, I thought all Cerakote products needed heat to cure, but apparently not! Their application guide really harps on getting rust off and creating a proper blast profile. Not having a blast cabinet or media blaster, I'm a little concerned about the level of prep I will be able to achieve (yeah, not going to send it out either).

I'm seriously considering the Titanium for my little exterior bits (door handles, gutter trim etc.). How has the Cerakote held up so far on your handles? @J Mack

 

[J Mack]

I'm seriously considering the Titanium for my little exterior bits (door handles, gutter trim etc.). How has the Cerakote held up so far on your handles?

I have a blast cabinet for small parts and yes prep is important, I also have a large oven and mostly use heat cure. I’ve been coating my firearms for several years and this paint is amazing, way more durable than powder coat or any other paint I’ve seen, the only way to remove it is to sand blast it off.

Everything that is not blue body panels with the exception of the roof rack on my pig is Cerakote including the engine, grill, bumpers and interior parts. So far it’s wearing just like it does on the firearms and I would expect it to last for my life time. FYI: my grill is the tungsten Cerakote heat cure and after painting it I wished I would have painted the rest of the trim this color.



I’ve see Harbor Fright blast cabinets go on sale for under $100.00, once you have one you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it.

 

[Ferntucky]

All righty, blasting cabinet and accessories are purchased. Been eyeballing one for a while now. Thanks for the nudge (I think) @J Mack

 

[scrapdaddy]

Blast cabinets are a lot of fun.

 

[4Cruisers]

Any experience yet with the manifold installed? Or have you baked the manifold yet to see the results after spraying on/wiping down the SLIP Plate coating? I'm getting ready to apply this treatment to my 3FE exhaust manifolds, but I'm planning on a trial run on my spare FJ60 cast iron water outlet/thermostat housings. Edit: Don't know what I was thinking - my housings are so dark gray with carbon I forgot they're aluminum, they look like cast iron. I should know better. So much for my trial run, I'll just go for it. I'm going on the basis of the same article you linked to in your first post. I wasn't able to get a can of SLIP Plate locally without having to order it, but bought an aerosol can of EZ-Slide at Tractor Supply Company - I believe it's a very similar product.

And yes, sand blasting is fun, but dirty, especially outdoors in the driveway. I just got my sandblasting setup a week ago, the gun, hose, pickup tube, and spare nozzles from Sears. I've used it for pretty much 3 solid days now and have tackled the exhaust manifolds, bellhousing, exhaust pipe flanges/hangers/brackets, inner fenders, and a good portion of the front frame members of my FJ60, the future recipient of the 3FE. When I was down at TSC to pick up the EZ-Slide I bought a sandblasting hood, but haven't tried it out yet.

 

[Ferntucky]

Honestly, I have not subjected the manifold to heat, but I just treated part of my turbo housing with the graphite. I think it will hold. Time will tell.

 

[4Cruisers]

Yesterday I finished a second sandblasting, cleaning with compressed air followed by a wash with mineral spirits, and two coats of EZ-Slide two hours between coats. Today I'll buff the manifolds and see what the finish is like. Then I'll put under the heat lamps for a couple of hours and take a look at the final finish.

 

[Ferntucky]

Yesterday I finished a second sandblasting, cleaning with compressed air followed by a wash with mineral spirits, and two coats of EZ-Slide two hours between coats. Today I'll buff the manifolds and see what the finish is like. Then I'll put under the heat lamps for a couple of hours and take a look at the final finish.

Sweet!

 

[4Cruisers]

Check out my post from earlier today on the 60-Series Wagons forum on my exhaust manifold makeover using EZ-Slide graphite lubricant.