Just purchased a 2016 LC with 112k miles. My dealer purchased it off a 5 year lease with one owner and all service done on schedule at the dealership. It was a family vehicle and never used for towing ( I think I put it in 4L for the first time) but I intend to tow my travel trailer with it. I have all maintenance records and none of the major fluids (Diff, transfer case, etc) have never been changed, and according to the maintenance schedule, don't need to be changed unless the vehicle is driven in adverse conditions. What are peoples thoughts on changing these fluids now? Or, should I hold off until after I've towed for 5-7 thousand miles as planned in Jan/Feb of next year?
Major fluid change at 112k
- Thread starter welchsoft
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
I would just do it, personally.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Same.
Really, it won’t matter either way.
I would at least have the Diff fluid checked. Also, you are due for an AHC fluid service (supposed to be every 60K) if that has not been done.
I had everything done at 90K by my mechanic, diff, transfer case, transmission, coolant, brake and PS fluid. And it was less 1/2 of what the dealer quoted me and not very expensive at all. I don't do much off roading and drive on dirt roads maybe a few times a month but I exercise the center diff lock each time and will put it in 4lo as well. I have '13 LX with 93K.
The only thing I bring it to the dealer for is AHC (my mechanic won't touch it) and extended warranty work. I like the local Lexus dealership but they are way expensive compared to my mechanic.
I had everything done at 90K by my mechanic, diff, transfer case, transmission, coolant, brake and PS fluid. And it was less 1/2 of what the dealer quoted me and not very expensive at all. I don't do much off roading and drive on dirt roads maybe a few times a month but I exercise the center diff lock each time and will put it in 4lo as well. I have '13 LX with 93K.
The only thing I bring it to the dealer for is AHC (my mechanic won't touch it) and extended warranty work. I like the local Lexus dealership but they are way expensive compared to my mechanic.
- Thread starter
- #6
I don't see that in the 60k mile service checkup for my 2016 LC nor a mention in the records of the actual checkup.
Check installation of driver’s floor mat
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
Inspect wiper blades
Lubricate propeller shaft
Re-torque propeller shaft bolt
Replace cabin air filter
Replace engine air filter
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Rotate tires
Inspect the following:
__ Automatic transmission fluid cooler
hoses and connections
__ Automatic transmission for signs of
leakage
__ Ball joints and dust covers
__ Brake lines and hoses
__ Brake linings/drums and brake
pads/discs 4
__ Drive belts 5
__ Drive shaft boots
__ Engine coolant 6
__ Exhaust pipes and mountings
__ Front differential oil
__ Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank
band and fuel tank vapor vent system
hoses
__ Fuel tank cap gasket
__ Radiator and condenser
__ Rear differential oil
__ Steering gear box
__ Steering linkage and boots
__ Transfer case oil
Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions 2
Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:
Replace transfer case oil
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body
Driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading:
Replace automatic transmission fluid
Replace front differential oil
Replace rear differential oil
Replace transfer case oil
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body
Check installation of driver’s floor mat
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
Inspect wiper blades
Lubricate propeller shaft
Re-torque propeller shaft bolt
Replace cabin air filter
Replace engine air filter
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Rotate tires
Inspect the following:
__ Automatic transmission fluid cooler
hoses and connections
__ Automatic transmission for signs of
leakage
__ Ball joints and dust covers
__ Brake lines and hoses
__ Brake linings/drums and brake
pads/discs 4
__ Drive belts 5
__ Drive shaft boots
__ Engine coolant 6
__ Exhaust pipes and mountings
__ Front differential oil
__ Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank
band and fuel tank vapor vent system
hoses
__ Fuel tank cap gasket
__ Radiator and condenser
__ Rear differential oil
__ Steering gear box
__ Steering linkage and boots
__ Transfer case oil
Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions 2
Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:
Replace transfer case oil
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body
Driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading:
Replace automatic transmission fluid
Replace front differential oil
Replace rear differential oil
Replace transfer case oil
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body
bloc
SILVER Star
Correct, US market LandCruisers did not get AHC, only LX570. Some in ROW markets did.
Sorry, I misread it as an LX.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Do it yourself, learn about your vehicle and save a crap ton of money.
Bad example, not directly applicable to the 200, but I had a dirtbike once that I killed because I didn't change fluids. Little did I know that the last guy was doing sand pit riding and some of it made its way into the engine. Ever since I've made it a habit to change fluids when I buy a used vehicle of any type. Better safe than sorry.
Bad example, not directly applicable to the 200, but I had a dirtbike once that I killed because I didn't change fluids. Little did I know that the last guy was doing sand pit riding and some of it made its way into the engine. Ever since I've made it a habit to change fluids when I buy a used vehicle of any type. Better safe than sorry.
Last edited:
Center and rear diffs are easy to do yourself.
I’ve learned to not attempt the front without a lift after stripping the fill plug on a 4Runner. Can’t get the leverage needed.
So I just paid the dealer to do the front when I had them do the transmission. I’ll do the other two myself. They charge a huge amount per diff it’s crazy.
I’ve learned to not attempt the front without a lift after stripping the fill plug on a 4Runner. Can’t get the leverage needed.
So I just paid the dealer to do the front when I had them do the transmission. I’ll do the other two myself. They charge a huge amount per diff it’s crazy.
- Thread starter
- #12
At 150 in my Tundra I had the mechanic drop the pan and clean the filter screen in the transmission when another option was a partial flush. How was your transmission done and mind giving me a ballpark figure on the cost?
I think it was around $400-500 just for the transmission. I’m not exactly sure how it was done, but I told them to not “flush”- they called it a full fluid “exchange” as specified in the FSM.
Drain and full is the safest IMO, just doesn’t get much of the fluid changed.
bloc
SILVER Star
Front diff is pretty easy with ramps. Yes the drain plug often gets stuck but hammering around the edge of the stock plug will compress the copper gasket and seems to do a good job of freeing it up. Worst case is you can’t get it loose, then bring the fluid and gaskets (& new plug, see below) to a shop where they can extract it for you.
Plus there is a Lexus part with an external 14mm hex (vs 10mm internal of stock) that better avoids stripping in the future, and having this on hand means you can hammer away at your current one with no need to save it.
Also a big reason many of these stick in the first place is mechanics see huge threads and just go nuts on it. If you tighten it only to the specified torque value, it is far less likely to get stuck. Doing it yourself is the best way to make sure this is done.
Plus there is a Lexus part with an external 14mm hex (vs 10mm internal of stock) that better avoids stripping in the future, and having this on hand means you can hammer away at your current one with no need to save it.
Also a big reason many of these stick in the first place is mechanics see huge threads and just go nuts on it. If you tighten it only to the specified torque value, it is far less likely to get stuck. Doing it yourself is the best way to make sure this is done.
Those are decent quotes if they are using genuine Toyota OEM t-case oil and a full ATF transfer (not the drain/fill, 12 vs 2-3 qts). You could still save a lot by DIY and using Mobile1 for diffs, Ravenol for t-case, and various ATF fluid options available, but if DIY is not your thing, those quotes are not outrageous.
bloc
SILVER Star
Agreed.
One more point though for @welchsoft make sure the shop doesn't "flush" the transmission, meaning force fluid and cleaner through it. If they "transfer" or "exchange" fluid, that's good. The point is simply draining the pan only gets a fraction of the total fluid in the transmission as @MikeVpdx503 said. A full transfer or exchange generally uses a special reservoir with a bladder to get all of it at once.
- Thread starter
- #18
The service and warranty manual says 'replace transmission fluid'. When they quoted price he was determining the cost of the fluid and don't believe that it a 'flush'. He also said that in 12 years of working at the dealer he has probably only seen the fluid changed two to three times as it is a 'lifetime' fluid. I told him that I'm towing and want to get optional service for those conditions. In any event I am a DIY person and will probably let them to the AT (so I don't have responsibility) as I have a three year service agreement, and I'll do the other three boxes myself.
As an aside related to the actual fluids, I see that Revenol sells a kit for the diffs and TC that have been mentioned on one of the threads on this site. Was thinking about just getting all the fluids from them. Any reason I would 'not' want to use that product?
As an aside related to the actual fluids, I see that Revenol sells a kit for the diffs and TC that have been mentioned on one of the threads on this site. Was thinking about just getting all the fluids from them. Any reason I would 'not' want to use that product?
bloc
SILVER Star
Keep in mind the perspective of most people is that the "lifetime" of a vehicle is 100k. The service writer operates from that perspective. You are totally right to push to have it done.
Ravenol seems like great stuff.. I finally moved to that with my most recent transfer case fluid drain/fill. Just make sure it is the straight 75wt that specifically meets the toyota part number. If you saw the posts about the special fluid you probably saw others about the differences in early vs late model transfer cases.
If the truck has been kept up to all the service then keep doing it that way, have the dealer do it per schedule, why waste the money, the next big one is 120k.
