Gents, I’m wondering if it’s going to be worth it for me to make the drive to mainline overland on the recommendation of LRA to chase down an evap check engine code. Any direct experiences from mid users would be most appreciated. Picture of shop location posted for clarity. TIA.
Main line overland CLT opinions/experiences (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter gasman4u
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Troll Hole Cruisers in Simpsonville, SC may be able to help. They only work on Land Cruisers.
- Thread starter
- #4
Seems like more of a outfitter store than anything that also does upgrade installs. I'd imagine most mechanics could find an evap code and the go to in Charlotte for cruiser specific repairs is H&H automotive on south blvd. Comes highly recommended by the Charlotte crew.
Edit: should have kepts scrolling to see that you already dropped it off there.
Let everyone know how they do
Edit: should have kepts scrolling to see that you already dropped it off there.
Let everyone know how they do
- Thread starter
- #6
I’m hoping to report a solid experience. I forgot about H&H! The only reason I took it to mainline is due to LRA specifically mentioning them as the “guru” (fwiw) about these codes. We will see if that is accurate.Seems like more of a outfitter store than anything that also does upgrade installs. I'd imagine most mechanics could find an evap code and the go to in Charlotte for cruiser specific repairs is H&H automotive on south blvd. Comes highly recommended by the Charlotte crew.
Edit: should have kepts scrolling to see that you already dropped it off there.
Let everyone know how they do
- Thread starter
- #7
I talked to Adam at MLO. Apparently my charcoal canister loves to drink gas despite my NEVER topping off the tanks. 1.3 lbs heavy and reeking of gasoline per their invoice.
I don’t know what to point to as the cause of this issue because they smoke tested, checked the (already) “solid” install of the tank, lines by my installer. My installer sheepishly said they didn’t know of anything else to do. All the while they did a good job! I don’t know what to make of this. I hardly ever fill the aux tank to capacity and always shift to the aux tank after the first click on the pump.
Anyways, I’ll report back if any issues once I actually pick up the vehicle this weekend. They said everything was buttoned up as it should be.
I don’t know what to point to as the cause of this issue because they smoke tested, checked the (already) “solid” install of the tank, lines by my installer. My installer sheepishly said they didn’t know of anything else to do. All the while they did a good job! I don’t know what to make of this. I hardly ever fill the aux tank to capacity and always shift to the aux tank after the first click on the pump.
Anyways, I’ll report back if any issues once I actually pick up the vehicle this weekend. They said everything was buttoned up as it should be.
- Thread starter
- #9
Picked it up yesterday after renting a car and driving one way, Uber to MLO, and drove back with no codes.
I believe in giving people chances to do the right thing when issues remain/come up. This afternoon I sent a couple notifications that stuff still isn’t right. I’m going to wait and see what they do next.
I will update as stuff shakes out @mcmarshing
I had a great experience with them buying an ARB for my 60, but they don't strike me as a maintenance/repair mechanic, mostly just installs of aftermarket equipment. May be selling them short but that's my impression. LRA likely has a relationship with them as a seller of their stuff.
- Thread starter
- #11
BLUF: I would not recommend MLO. Given @open country first hand experience above, I will defer to others' experience. My review below is as objective as possible.
Cruiser when arrived to MLO: p2420 code and LRA aux tank working as billed.
Cruiser when "completed" by MLO: p2420 code and LRA not functioning the same as when dropped off. Res ipsa loquitur.
My experience in...brief:
I made the drive to MLO, dropped off my car for the next week to give them plenty of time to work on it. "No time crunch at all, please chase down this CEL issue" was my attitude given they would have the truck for an entire week. They had other jobs until the following Wednesday AM when my truck was up. Awesome, let's get to the root of it. MLO completed a round of vapor/smoke/whatever testing without leaks and install "looked really good." They drained the tank of fuel to be able to drop it to look at lines (I'm assuming they checked the lines anyways). The tank had to be dropped to get to charcoal canister. The existing charcoal canister was full of fuel per the MLO guy I talked to. They did replace the old, fuel ridden charcoal canister with a BNIB OEM charcoal canister I left in the back given the persistent p2420 code we were looking to fix and fuel smell/extra weight with the existing one. Great! Job done, right!?! I drive several hours back to MLO, drop off a rental car, uber to MLO for pickup and it's out front as promised. I get my fob from the drop box and take off with a red light on the LRA fuel gauge and no CEL codes. Fantastic! I make the drive home and fill up with fuel once I get home given the empty LRA tank and thimble sized OEM tank. When I got around 40 gallons of fuel split between the regular tank and my LRA, I hung up the nozzle, get back in, and head home. I look down and notice the red LED remained. No green bars. I was spent given the day of driving and was just going to let it go and look to try and fix wiring another time if CEL was truly fixed.
The next morning, I get up to go to work and was greeted with a CEL (P2420) and a single red LED on the LRA readout. I waited to see if the LRA fuel pump would actually get gas from the aux tank to the main before writing an email to MLO. It does function, but only for a few moments as the tank is reading "empty" and I'm guessing they don't want you burning up your pump trying to transfer fuel that isn't there.
I reached out via email at this point and got a reply that didn't inspire confidence. No problem, I understand people have bad days, things happen, etc.
This level of "I'm not sure...." continued for weeks. No accountability or offering to "make it right." Just a "without looking at it again, we don't know what it could be." If the shop was down the road, no problem. I'll bring it back whenever. It is a several hour drive each way from me. Hence, why I gave as much time as I did from the outset. I am being as objective with chain of events as possible as there was a lot of finger pointing between LRA and MLO with respect to communication and the lack thereof.
Which brings us to today - where I have still have a daily P2420 code, a single red LED on the LRA module, and a fuel transfer pump that thinks it's going to burn itself out irrespective of aux tank volume.
Everyone makes mistakes in business. What separates good businesses from the rest is what they do to recover from their mistakes. I hesitated to write this experience as it is overall negative in nature. With that said, I have given ample time for whatever MLO was going to do to "make it right" to occur and their inaction speaks volumes.
I will continue to seek trustworthy shops to try and chase this thing down and remedy whatever is going on. When that happens, I will follow up. I hope this experience is clear and helps others make an informed decision.
Any other shops in central NC you gents recommend would be most appreciative. I saw the prior rec for H&H in Charlotte and the shop in SC. I am hopeful to find a reputable shop that is not hours from me that can figure out whatever is going on, to build positive relationships, etc. TIA.
Cruiser when arrived to MLO: p2420 code and LRA aux tank working as billed.
Cruiser when "completed" by MLO: p2420 code and LRA not functioning the same as when dropped off. Res ipsa loquitur.
My experience in...brief:
I made the drive to MLO, dropped off my car for the next week to give them plenty of time to work on it. "No time crunch at all, please chase down this CEL issue" was my attitude given they would have the truck for an entire week. They had other jobs until the following Wednesday AM when my truck was up. Awesome, let's get to the root of it. MLO completed a round of vapor/smoke/whatever testing without leaks and install "looked really good." They drained the tank of fuel to be able to drop it to look at lines (I'm assuming they checked the lines anyways). The tank had to be dropped to get to charcoal canister. The existing charcoal canister was full of fuel per the MLO guy I talked to. They did replace the old, fuel ridden charcoal canister with a BNIB OEM charcoal canister I left in the back given the persistent p2420 code we were looking to fix and fuel smell/extra weight with the existing one. Great! Job done, right!?! I drive several hours back to MLO, drop off a rental car, uber to MLO for pickup and it's out front as promised. I get my fob from the drop box and take off with a red light on the LRA fuel gauge and no CEL codes. Fantastic! I make the drive home and fill up with fuel once I get home given the empty LRA tank and thimble sized OEM tank. When I got around 40 gallons of fuel split between the regular tank and my LRA, I hung up the nozzle, get back in, and head home. I look down and notice the red LED remained. No green bars. I was spent given the day of driving and was just going to let it go and look to try and fix wiring another time if CEL was truly fixed.
The next morning, I get up to go to work and was greeted with a CEL (P2420) and a single red LED on the LRA readout. I waited to see if the LRA fuel pump would actually get gas from the aux tank to the main before writing an email to MLO. It does function, but only for a few moments as the tank is reading "empty" and I'm guessing they don't want you burning up your pump trying to transfer fuel that isn't there.
I reached out via email at this point and got a reply that didn't inspire confidence. No problem, I understand people have bad days, things happen, etc.
This level of "I'm not sure...." continued for weeks. No accountability or offering to "make it right." Just a "without looking at it again, we don't know what it could be." If the shop was down the road, no problem. I'll bring it back whenever. It is a several hour drive each way from me. Hence, why I gave as much time as I did from the outset. I am being as objective with chain of events as possible as there was a lot of finger pointing between LRA and MLO with respect to communication and the lack thereof.
Which brings us to today - where I have still have a daily P2420 code, a single red LED on the LRA module, and a fuel transfer pump that thinks it's going to burn itself out irrespective of aux tank volume.
Everyone makes mistakes in business. What separates good businesses from the rest is what they do to recover from their mistakes. I hesitated to write this experience as it is overall negative in nature. With that said, I have given ample time for whatever MLO was going to do to "make it right" to occur and their inaction speaks volumes.
I will continue to seek trustworthy shops to try and chase this thing down and remedy whatever is going on. When that happens, I will follow up. I hope this experience is clear and helps others make an informed decision.
Any other shops in central NC you gents recommend would be most appreciative. I saw the prior rec for H&H in Charlotte and the shop in SC. I am hopeful to find a reputable shop that is not hours from me that can figure out whatever is going on, to build positive relationships, etc. TIA.
Call Trollhole's and talk to Marshall about it.
OB-1
SILVER Star
I also recommend contacting Trollhole's for a second opinion.
Marshall and Greg (who is no longer there) did my LRA install and worked thru some install issues directly with Ward and Georg due to being sent the install kit for the HDJ vs UZJ. All in all, I was very pleased with the end result and great communication.
Marshall and Greg (who is no longer there) did my LRA install and worked thru some install issues directly with Ward and Georg due to being sent the install kit for the HDJ vs UZJ. All in all, I was very pleased with the end result and great communication.
- Thread starter
- #14
@OB-1 @Hokie LX Thanks for the Trollhole recommendation. I got in touch with Teddy pretty much the same day you posted above. Got an appointment figured out that would work with my schedule and when they had room in their shop. I drove it down, dropped it off, and got a rental for the rest of the week. They were great to deal with and did good work! The evap code ultimately was related to a broken wiring harness due to (educated guess) some ham fisted MLO guy smashing it with the tank being reinstalled.
The prior shop in the thread above also messed up a U-bolt due to over torqueing. I'm not even mad - I'm impressed. But seriously, I'm glad the THC crew was able to diagnose and find all the mess that was wrong with the tank.
Now I'm dealing with the newest issue of a single red led showing regardless of fuel level in aux tank. The pump will run, but turn off after approximately 2 minutes as the tank is registering as "empty." Now I've got to work through this issue gifted by an poorly trained, uninterested tech rushing through to get the job done at the prior shop that I paid good money in good faith. Great. Any ideas where to start? I've already reached out a couple times to LRA. Again.
I have ZERO hesitation in recommending @Trollhole for any land cruiser maintenance, restoration, etc. The guys had one heck of a setup and I only selfishly wish they were closer to me. Thanks again Teddy and the rest of the THC crew!
The prior shop in the thread above also messed up a U-bolt due to over torqueing. I'm not even mad - I'm impressed. But seriously, I'm glad the THC crew was able to diagnose and find all the mess that was wrong with the tank.
Now I'm dealing with the newest issue of a single red led showing regardless of fuel level in aux tank. The pump will run, but turn off after approximately 2 minutes as the tank is registering as "empty." Now I've got to work through this issue gifted by an poorly trained, uninterested tech rushing through to get the job done at the prior shop that I paid good money in good faith. Great. Any ideas where to start? I've already reached out a couple times to LRA. Again.
I have ZERO hesitation in recommending @Trollhole for any land cruiser maintenance, restoration, etc. The guys had one heck of a setup and I only selfishly wish they were closer to me. Thanks again Teddy and the rest of the THC crew!
I was having a similar issue with my LRA gauge for the 25 gallon tank that was installed by MLO for my 1993 HDJ81VXL. The sending unit was bad and MLO installed a new one from LRA who also sent me a new gauge. LRA was very helpful. MLO installed the new sending unit which still didn't solve the problem even through they said it worked fine for them.
I talked to LRA again who said the sending unit was likely not properly installed.
I bit the bullet and decided to do the job myself. Drained and dropped the LRA tank, removed the sending unit after checking all the wiring to make sure everything was connected correctly. I put in one of these:
REPLACEMENT Tanks Inc. Floatless Fuel Sending Unit $124.95
0-90 ohm (find out correct tank depth)
Floatless Fuel Sending Unit - https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=346/category_id=184/mode=prod/prd346.htm
Works as it should now and I have an extra gauge sitting on the shelf if I ever need it.
job for me because I don't have a lift or dedicated garage space. Took a weekend to do and the only issue was getting the tank back in position to bolt back up which I used a piece of wood, ratchet straps and a floor jack to get it in position.
I sent the information to LRA who said they would look at this sending unit as a replacement/upgrade in the future for those who want it.
I talked to LRA again who said the sending unit was likely not properly installed.
I bit the bullet and decided to do the job myself. Drained and dropped the LRA tank, removed the sending unit after checking all the wiring to make sure everything was connected correctly. I put in one of these:
REPLACEMENT Tanks Inc. Floatless Fuel Sending Unit $124.95
0-90 ohm (find out correct tank depth)
Floatless Fuel Sending Unit - https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=346/category_id=184/mode=prod/prd346.htm
Works as it should now and I have an extra gauge sitting on the shelf if I ever need it.
job for me because I don't have a lift or dedicated garage space. Took a weekend to do and the only issue was getting the tank back in position to bolt back up which I used a piece of wood, ratchet straps and a floor jack to get it in position.I sent the information to LRA who said they would look at this sending unit as a replacement/upgrade in the future for those who want it.
This is the original LRA sending unit that was installed:
Tanks Inc. Fuel Level Sending Units TAN-GML $44.99
Tanks Inc. TAN-GML Tanks Inc. Fuel Level Sending Units | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-tan-gml?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwu3mncn8hgMVBJtaBR1bhggjEAQYAyABEgJni_D_BwE
This is the pump:
Facet posi-flow 12V Fuel transfer pump $53.69
Facet Posi-Flo 12v Fuel Pump Kit, 1/8 NPT, 4-7 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9615
This is the gauge:
Apexus PG210 Long Range, Aux tank change over Switch Gauge $89
Apexus PG210 Long Range, Aux tank change over Switch Gauge - APX-PG210 - https://bluelpg.com.au/shop/apexus-pg210-long-range-aux-tank-change-over-switch-gauge
Sending unit from LRA that I replaced:
Tanks Inc. Fuel Level Sending Units TAN-GML $44.99
Tanks Inc. TAN-GML Tanks Inc. Fuel Level Sending Units | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-tan-gml?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwu3mncn8hgMVBJtaBR1bhggjEAQYAyABEgJni_D_BwE
This is the pump:
Facet posi-flow 12V Fuel transfer pump $53.69
Facet Posi-Flo 12v Fuel Pump Kit, 1/8 NPT, 4-7 psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9615
This is the gauge:
Apexus PG210 Long Range, Aux tank change over Switch Gauge $89
Apexus PG210 Long Range, Aux tank change over Switch Gauge - APX-PG210 - https://bluelpg.com.au/shop/apexus-pg210-long-range-aux-tank-change-over-switch-gauge
Sending unit from LRA that I replaced:
little_joe
SILVER Star
I know this isn’t a proper fix..
However I couldn’t get a sender only from LRA (at least at the time I had to mess with it)
I hard wired my pump to an on off switch. I fill up the LRA when I fuel, and pump it until the sound changes on the aux pump. It’s my ladies daily and she does this with no issue.
Sure it would be nice to know how much fuel is in the 24 aux. However I’ve figured out the basics in my head. 500 miles range on both combined. If we have 300 miles on the trip meter and the main tank is full the aux is empty.
I’m the one who puts fuel in the cruiser 99.999% of the time. I reset the trip a religiously with fill ups to know where we are on fuel.
However I couldn’t get a sender only from LRA (at least at the time I had to mess with it)
I hard wired my pump to an on off switch. I fill up the LRA when I fuel, and pump it until the sound changes on the aux pump. It’s my ladies daily and she does this with no issue.
Sure it would be nice to know how much fuel is in the 24 aux. However I’ve figured out the basics in my head. 500 miles range on both combined. If we have 300 miles on the trip meter and the main tank is full the aux is empty.
I’m the one who puts fuel in the cruiser 99.999% of the time. I reset the trip a religiously with fill ups to know where we are on fuel.
As long as the switch is working, (I used an ohm meter to check) the pump will push fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. The problem I had was the sending unit was bad the first time and not properly calibrated when installed the second time. I worked around that by installing the “float less sending unit” I posted so I didn’t have to worry about the adjustments to the float on installation, just the depth of the tank.
I put more secure connections to the sending unit on the new installation so I wouldn’t have to worry about water or connection. All good after the new installation.
I put more secure connections to the sending unit on the new installation so I wouldn’t have to worry about water or connection. All good after the new installation.
