M416 Trailer build

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Thanks! So you have two struts in each tube? Any plans for a lowering device?

As of right now, no plan. I thought about a hand winch and pulleys on a soft ties, but, right now, the cam straps work well enough.

Bigger issue is the binding in the tubes, clean the rust off and chrome the smaller "ID" tubes add a fork seal to them and grease it, and i should be in business!

Thanks,

Jeremy
 
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judging by this picture, you made the same "mistake" I did. placing the fenders in the original location, which puts the front behind the front spring mount. this makes the front of the tire too close to the fender and prone to rubbing.

I'm on my second set of springs and shackles, trying to fix this issue without having to cut up my fender/sliders. I'll probably end up going with lift shackles and taller springs just to keep the wheels out of the fenders. time to convince the wife the 4R needs a lift. :cheers:


BTW, how's the trailer? haven't seen much here lately.
 
valid username said:
judging by this picture, you made the same "mistake" I did. placing the fenders in the original location, which puts the front behind the front spring mount. this makes the front of the tire too close to the fender and prone to rubbing.

I'm on my second set of springs and shackles, trying to fix this issue without having to cut up my fender/sliders. I'll probably end up going with lift shackles and taller springs just to keep the wheels out of the fenders. time to convince the wife the 4R needs a lift. :cheers:

BTW, how's the trailer? haven't seen much here lately.

You are absolutely correct. I'll resolve it by sectioning the sliders to give clearance inside the fender well. With that 1.5" of material removed I should be fine. I'll adjust the bumpstops as well. Then the appropriate length shocks.
 
Nice to see that the problem is being resolved.
 
Just read through the entire thread. Great build and definitely gives me a few ideas for my m416 build
 
Just read through the entire thread. Great build and definitely gives me a few ideas for my m416 build

Thanks for the kind words. Please hit me up with any questions that I may be able to help out with.

Jeremy

Ps. I sold my last RTT to a guy in DE while I was staying in Middletown, DE at my parents.
 
Sounds good. Shoot me a PM when you are coming to DE and we can try and meet up, I just have to work it around my schedule.
 
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Some fresh content for you. The first time I almost flopped it...

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Hideout Canyon

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Valley of the God's with Mario from Adventure Trailers.
 
As of right now, no plan. I thought about a hand winch and pulleys on a soft ties, but, right now, the cam straps work well enough.

Bigger issue is the binding in the tubes, clean the rust off and chrome the smaller "ID" tubes add a fork seal to them and grease it, and i should be in business!

Thanks,

Jeremy

Hey Jeremy,
Spent a little time reliving this thread and was wondering if you ended up chroming the inner tubes and if so how are they holding up?

Great pics!
Thanks,
Scott
 
Last edited:
scottymarks said:
Hey Jeremy,
Spent a little time reliving this thread and was wondering if you ended up chroming the inner tubes and if so how are they holding up?

Great pics!
Thanks,
Scott

Scott,

I haven't chromed the inner tubes, this winter flew by and the trailer didn't make it into the work rotation.

After the 20,000 miles it's holding up great aside from the few issues I've mentioned. I couldn't be happier with it.
 
Sir
Thank you for sending me your link, and your willingness to help me out. I saw your build link and it is strait forward.
I have a couple of questions.
1. What type/ size of gas shocks did you use? What diameter of tube did you use for the outer and inner tube, I went to the site where you purchased it but not sure which type to use. Is it just one shock inside each out tube? is the puck the only thing that separates the shock from the inner tube. Do you think that reversing the tubes so that the bigger tube is on top and smaller one on bottom, relieve the tube from binding.
2. The puck that you used, did you make that? Or did it come with the gas shock.
3. The top that you put on your trailer. How does it work? Does it just slid our towards the back and pull off or do it slide forward towards the front and roll on its self.

Sorry for all the questions, I’m currently deployed, to Afghanistan, and on my down time, I pass the time planning my project and builds. It makes time go a bit easier.
Thank you again for wanting to help.
 
NOTE: For questions regarding the trailer build and details, please post them in the thread and not as a PM, I receive quite a few questions on the build and would love to have this be the place of record. Thanks, Jeremy

VMan,

This should get you all the info needed for the gas springs.


Line Quantity Product Ships Unit Price Total Price
1 2
Each 9416K542
Gas Spring with Threaded Ends 29.33" Extended Length, 13.77" Stroke, 50 Force (Same as 9416K54)
today
$16.97 $33.94
2 4
Each 9416K193
Gas Spring with Threaded Ends 60 Force, 18.62" Extended Length, 8.27" Stroke (Same as 9416K19)
today
$14.68 $58.72
3 2
Each 9416K543
Gas Spring with Threaded Ends 29.33" Extended Length, 13.77" Stroke, 75 Force (Same as 9416K54)
today
$16.97 $33.94

Merchandise $126.60

Phone (630) 600-3600 Fax (630) 834-9427 Internet McMaster-Carr E-mail chi.sales@mcmaster.com

#1 for the steel tube stock, I chose the outer DOM steel tube of 1.75" OD so I wouldn't have any binding on a welded seam. The inner tube, was trial and error till I found something that worked well. The center puck is made out of 3/16" thick steel, using a hole saw and drilling and tapping the holes to secure the gas struts to each other.

#2 I made the pucks at the top and bottom out of UHMW available at any plastics supply house, or I picked mine up at Rockler woodworking. UHMW Plastic Jig Stock - Rockler Woodworking Tools

#3 The top I used is a recycled roll top, but due to the huge amount of space it takes up, I have just used the light weight aluminum as a deck. I don't open the top, everything is accessed from the rear door.

Coupling the two gas struts: if you aren't as conscientious about closed height then you can use a coupling nut, in that case make sure both your upper and lower gas struts are the same thread size and pitch, i.e. M8 or M6.

Thanks for your service across the pond.
 
Im sorry but im not understanding your post in regards to your shocks you used for the lift. I ordered the wrong ones. I got 29.33 extended length but I need the 33.94. My tent is about 150 lbs. I figure the rack its mounted to is like 60-70 lbs. So I was thinking 4-200lbs struts. if im reading your post right, you used 3 different lengths and forces? Can you elaborate please. Someone directed me here when I was posting my idea to lift the tent higher. I cant find out if I need 4 struts at 200 lbs or 4- 50 lb struts totaling 200lbs. Mcmaster doesnt know either.
 
You will need four 50-60 pound struts, I'm in the process of doing the same thing and the place that made my struts said this is what I needed.
 
You will need four 50-60 pound struts, I'm in the process of doing the same thing and the place that made my struts said this is what I needed.

Ok, so if the lift weight is 200-225 lbs, you will need 4 struts totaling the lift weight? I was also told to go a little over the weight you need to lift. My weight distribution is even so I dont think I need different weights.
 

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