LX570 power tailgate not functioning (1 Viewer)

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Nov 10, 2019
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Rhode Island
Hey everyone,

Hoping someone has the answer here....
I have a 2008 LX570 and the power function on my rear upper tailgate is not working. Yes, the feature is turned on in the vehicle.
No matter if I use the button on the dash, key fob, or rear tailgate button it will not go up or down automstically. It only beeps twice. I have to manually pull it open or close. The feature that closes the tailgate when slightly ajar still works.

Could this be caused by the L & R struts being worn out? Or something worse?

Thank you!
 
Silly question - is the power tailgate button pressed in, or out? I do believe it needs to be "out" in order to be "on," which I always found to be counterintuitive. Pressing the button basically turns it off.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 15-20 minutes?
 
Hey everyone,

Hoping someone has the answer here....
I have a 2008 LX570 and the power function on my rear upper tailgate is not working. Yes, the feature is turned on in the vehicle.
No matter if I use the button on the dash, key fob, or rear tailgate button it will not go up or down automstically. It only beeps twice. I have to manually pull it open or close. The feature that closes the tailgate when slightly ajar still works.

Could this be caused by the L & R struts being worn out? Or something worse?

Thank you!

When this happens to me it is because the bottom part that folds down Manually, is not secured properly. Try opening it then close it enough to let the hydraulic do the rest.
 
Never mind, @eatSleepWoof is right it was definitely the power door lock button that my knee accidentally hits from time to time. Reading his comment triggered my memory. 2 beeps when it is pressed in and works when it is unpressed.

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Silly question - is the power tailgate button pressed in, or out? I do believe it needs to be "out" in order to be "on," which I always found to be counterintuitive. Pressing the button basically turns it off.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 15-20 minutes?
Silly question - is the power tailgate button pressed in, or out? I do believe it needs to be "out" in order to be "on," which I always found to be counterintuitive. Pressing the button basically turns it off.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 15-20 minutes?
Yea! That's totally it. Ha ha it works now. Very confusing. You're right, it is counterintuitive. Thanks everyone for the support! First time posting.
 
I just messed around, and if the doors are locked and you are trying to open it from inside the car, then you also get 2 beeps. When doors are locked it will only open by key and only if engine is off. If engine is on and doors are locked then you can’t open it, also 2 beeps.
 
Since we are on the topic, has anyone replaced the struts on either side of the rear tailgate? Do they have to be Lexus branded or anything special? Or can you get away with aftermarket normal tailgate struts? Thanks again.
 
Since we are on the topic, has anyone replaced the struts on either side of the rear tailgate? Do they have to be Lexus branded or anything special? Or can you get away with aftermarket normal tailgate struts? Thanks again.

Im at a little over 200k on original struts and I open mine multiple times every day. It started squeaking and going up slow for the last bit like 2 months ago, I greased it and the squeak and slowness went away. Now it is squeaking Near the top and going up slow again but not enough To bother me. When it’s time the squeaking will get louder and it will go up very slowly.

I’m low budget So as long as it still reaches top height and still safe (as in hold it there firmly), then I can l live with the squealing/slower when going up. It got slower but I never felt it was unsafe, so I never worry about hatch door slamming down on me, and so I don’t bother.
 
Im at a little over 200k on original struts and I open mine multiple times every day. It started squeaking and going up slow for the last bit like 2 months ago, I greased it and the squeak and slowness went away. Now it is squeaking Near the top and going up slow again but not enough To bother me. When it’s time the squeaking will get louder and it will go up very slowly.

I’m low budget So as long as it still reaches top height and still safe (as in hold it there firmly), then I can l live with the squealing/slower when going up. It got slower but I never felt it was unsafe, so I never worry about hatch door slamming down on me, and so I don’t bother.
My concern would be as they wear out, it could put additional strain on the automatic components. Which I'm sure are much more $$$
 
My concern would be as they wear out, it could put additional strain on the automatic components. Which I'm sure are much more $$$

Isn’t it less strain on the components if the struts are weak? They assist with the lift portion and resist the close action. Weaker struts means closing the lid is easier on the mechanism,......
 
I just realized I’m the wrong person to pitch in there, because I bought the LX for the capability and reliability part and To me the power doors are luxury features that I never needed to begin with, but it is nice icing on the cake when I do have it (everything still works so I have a lot of icing!).

My point is, if it is cheap and readily available then I’d do it, but if it started looking pricey, then I’d gladly manually open and close it myself lol. As long as the important parts work then I really don’t worry about the little extra stuff. A part of reliability is long-term maintenance cost, and spending a lot on the little things can take away from the value.

So basically, I’d go aftermarket or whatever is more cost efficient in the long run, if I had to do it.
 
Isn’t it less strain on the components if the struts are weak? They assist with the lift portion and resist the close action. Weaker struts means closing the lid is easier on the mechanism,......
He means going up, as in the Components have to push harder to lift it. Maybe I am confusing worn struts with struts that need some grease?
 
Isn’t it less strain on the components if the struts are weak? They assist with the lift portion and resist the close action. Weaker struts means closing the lid is easier on the mechanism,......
Interesting perspective. Yea, I'm not sure. But I suppose @Dangcat has a good point.
 
Interesting perspective. Yea, I'm not sure. But I suppose @Dangcat has a good point.
Also keep in mind I am working with the smallest budget out of all the 200 series owners, so I really can only afford to fix the bare essentials. That’s my point when I said I am not the right person to pitch in here, because the average LX owner bought theirs with much less miles and paid more, and so their standards should be higher than mine.

I’m just happy if it runs lol.
 
Also keep in mind I am working with the smallest budget out of all the 200 series owners, so I really can only afford to fix the bare essentials. That’s my point when I said I am not the right person to pitch in here, because the average LX owner bought theirs with much less miles and paid more, and so their standards should be higher than mine.

I’m just happy if it runs lol.
Lol well good luck with it! Have you had any issues since you've had it? You said mileage 200K+ right?
I have 113K so could be a crystal ball for me in terms of maintenance items.
 
Lol well good luck with it! Have you had any issues since you've had it? You said mileage 200K+ right?
I have 113K so could be a crystal ball for me in terms of maintenance items.
Thank you kind sir, and yes she is at 202k and running strong! These things really don’t need much to keep going and going, and that will always be My favorite thing about them!

Only thing outside of your usual brakes and oils and etc, was I got radiator replaced at around 150k and AHC flushed near there as well. Still on original starter and alternator, and have not had any issues even though my battery has died like 10 times and had to be jumped (battery is due for a replacement soon). As soon as battery gets close to 12V she fires right up every time and alternator does a good job of keeping everything powered (I charge/power a lot of things as I drive, and sometimes run the live stream while driving). It’s amazing really.

And it’s a pleasure meeting you here, please let us know if there is anything me or anyone here can help you with!
 
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Thank you kind sir, and yes she is at 202k and running strong! These things really don’t need much to keep going and going, and that will always be My favorite thing about them!

Only thing outside of your usual brakes and oils and etc, was I got alternator replaced at around 150k and AHC flushed near there as well. Still on original starter and alternator, and have not had any issues even though my battery has died like 10 times and had to be jumped (battery is due for a replacement soon). As soon as battery gets close to 12V she fires right up every time and alternator does a good job of keeping everything powered (I charge/power a lot of things as I drive, and sometimes run the live stream while driving). It’s amazing really.

And it’s a pleasure meeting you here, please let us know if there is anything me or anyone here can help you with!
The only thing I've had to do so far was steering rack which was an odd item to start leaking. Thanks again everyone for the help.
 
Since we are on the topic, has anyone replaced the struts on either side of the rear tailgate? Do they have to be Lexus branded or anything special? Or can you get away with aftermarket normal tailgate struts? Thanks again.
I replaced mine with a set off of Amazon. Was 30ish bucks if I recall for the set. Sort of improved things for a second but the hatch still doesn't work for me. I hear the motor trying but then gives up. I don't feel strongly about having the feature work so I haven't dug into the electronic/mechanical portion of things at all.
 
I had a little sag in the rear hatch and sprayed the moving parts hidden behind the panels with great success.
I want to be able to walk under the hatch when it's open.
But it may help spray and clean first. You don't need to spray much inside on the moving parts.

Anyone have this problem...I'm trying to post the Amazon link to hatch shocks but it won't paste. Hmmm


Amazon product ASIN B01HH0OQKK
 
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I had a little sag in the rear hatch and sprayed the moving parts hidden behind the panels with great success.
I want to be able to walk under the hatch when it's open.
But it may help spray and clean first. You don't need to spray much inside on the moving parts.

Anyone have this problem...I'm trying to post the Amazon link to hatch shocks but it won't paste. Hmmm


Amazon product ASIN B01HH0OQKK

What did you use to spray? And where did you spray? Thanks in advance!
 

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