LX570 Parking brake - doesn't hold

[Dan Lee]

My '08 doesn't hold position on an incline (nothing really too steep - just local roads and driveway). I had the shop adjust the parking brake at the wheel and it still doesn't hold.

Are there other adjustments that could help here? Some maintenance and/or part replacements?

 

[bloc]

Pull your cupholder out and there is a nut under there that provides more adjustment.

I think the factory spec is 5-7 clicks with 45lb of pulling force.

 

[Dan Lee]

Thanks. I did that and turned the nut about 4 turns. There is less travel now -- the hand brake lever gets tough to move after about 5-6 clicks. I'll test it tomorrow.

 

[Seanofsocal]

This happened on my lx and the adjustment referenced didn’t work in steep hill parking situations and put pressure on transmission. Dealer had to put vehicle on lift and make additional adjustments which did remedy the issue.

 

[Union]

Can you adjust them at the rear like you would for traditional e brake drum setup?

 

[Mixelplix]

Can you adjust them at the rear like you would for traditional e brake drum setup?

Yes you can.

Bear in mind that I've heard about a lot of reports of techs damaging the drum parking brake when changing rotors. The e brake setup on 200's is essentially a drum brake which sits beneath the center of the rotor.

It's possible that the top spacer of your parking brake shoe came off during rotor replacement, and as a result never allows the shoes to get really tight. Check that if all else fails.

 

[Dan Lee]

I wish I tested my parking brake before I had the rotors and pads changed recently. I'll test the brake later today since adjustments have been made at the drum and at the lever. But it doesn't sound hopeful. The shop I go to seem pretty knowledgeable. They only work on Toyota and Honda. And the owner has Toyota's (including an SUV). So, I assume they are familiar.

That being said, if it's still not holding after the adjustments, how do get them to check for the top spacer? Also, I think I read in passing that the shoes should be replaced with the rotor since now they are different shapes. This doesn't really make sense to me since I imagine that the shoes don't really wear (just static friction, right? unless you drive around with them semi-engaged). But is this something to look at?

 

[Mixelplix]

It's an easy mistake to make. Fortunately it's easy to check, you just remove the caliper and rotor, and see if the shoes are aligned properly, and that the top and bottom spacer are there.

 

[AnthonyLC]

Check out this video at 5:52 for what the hand brake adjustment looks like in the rear

 

[Dan Lee]

Thanks! Good video.

 

[Dan Lee]

The truck seems to holding, but just barely, after adjusting the lever pull. Maybe I can adjust it a little more so that it’s hard after 3-4 clicks.

If I pull the lever all the way, the truck will hold but just the slightest nudge will result in motion.

So, improved but could be better.

 

[loop737]

I wouldn’t expect to much out of that brake. I’ve adjusted my 2015, (40k miles) at the rear wheels per the fsm. Then popped off the cup holder and adjusted the cable, still weak. Was advised by the dealer to drive a bit with the brake engaged (slowly of course), so did that. Yep, still weak. It works, but have to pull like the hulk to get it to hold on a hill. Annoying.

 

[Dan Lee]

Kind of sad that a vehicle designed to go up and down steep inclines, off pavement, boat ramps, and such has such an under-designed hand brake. I guess there are worse things that could have been under designed, but at this price point......

 

[bloc]

That’s what Park is for, I guess.

It all stems from toyota stubbornly sticking with the hand brake. A foot brake would allow much more force. I bet they have their reasons but I suspect it’s just a Japanese market thing.

Driving with the brake engaged builds some heat and can remove glaze or corrosion in the drum.. It also wears the shoes in to the same diameter as the drum, making subsequent adjustment much more effective.

Imagine the shoe only contacting in the middle (if shoe diameter is slightly smaller than drum) or only on the ends.. (reverse situation). If the shoe is a very close fit you get full engagement as soon as the lever gets pulled, not just the center or ends.

 

[loop737]

That’s what Park is for, I guess.

It all stems from toyota stubbornly sticking with the hand brake. A foot brake would allow much more force. I bet they have their reasons but I suspect it’s just a Japanese market thing.

Driving with the brake engaged builds some heat and can remove glaze or corrosion in the drum.. It also wears the shoes in to the same diameter as the drum, making subsequent adjustment much more effective.

Imagine the shoe only contacting in the middle (if shoe diameter is slightly smaller than drum) or only on the ends.. (reverse situation). If the shoe is a very close fit you get full engagement as soon as the lever gets pulled, not just the center or ends.

Don't think its a handbrake vs footbrake thing, my LX470 has a similar setup to the 570, and the damn thing works great.

 

[bloc]

Don't think its a handbrake vs footbrake thing, my LX470 has a similar setup to the 570, and the damn thing works great.

I dont have a 100 to compare to, but the hand brake on my 2013 works pretty well. But then I've spent quite a bit of time dialing it in too.

 

[Dan Lee]

So, I should try driving with the brake loosely engaged (say 3 clicks if the lever is per the factory spec of 5-7 clicks?) for about 100 yards? 1 mile? Shorter but several times (letting the brakes cool a bit first)?

I'm reading that Park is NOT advised to keep the vehicle stopped on inclines. I read that this puts stress on the tranny leading to premature failure (which may be especially bad while parked on a long slope).

 

[indycole]

I'm reading that Park is NOT advised to keep the vehicle stopped on inclines. I read that this puts stress on the tranny leading to premature failure (which may be especially bad while parked on a long slope).

I can’t help you with the first question but can expand on the this part.

Parking on an incline:

1.) shift to neutral with your foot on the brake
2.) fully engage parking brake
3.) slowly let your foot off the brake to verify the parking brake is holding the vehicle
4.) shift to park

 

[Dan Lee]

Thanks. That’s what I do. The problem is that the lx starts rolling down the hill with the brake engages but in neutral. Not good when on the boat ramp.

 

[loop737]

So, I should try driving with the brake loosely engaged (say 3 clicks if the lever is per the factory spec of 5-7 clicks?) for about 100 yards? 1 mile? Shorter but several times (letting the brakes cool a bit first)?

I'm reading that Park is NOT advised to keep the vehicle stopped on inclines. I read that this puts stress on the tranny leading to premature failure (which may be especially bad while parked on a long slope).

Yes, engage the brake partially and drive for a while slowly, the idea is to scuff up the shoes so they hold better. The FSM also advises to do this after adjusting the brake. Try it, maybe you'll have better luck than I did. I have never liked having all the vehicles weight on the transmission in park, that's what the brake is for imo.