LX470 Mark Levinson full replacement - Alpine Optim8, german speakers, 2 way active front stage

[willyroo]

Hi all,

Having some good audio gear at home, the "surprisingly good" audio system in the LX was becoming more and more tired. There's always been a bit of "haze" and a messy mid-treble mix with the 2 1/2 way front speaker system. Having successfully installed and used the T'eyes CC3 for over 12 months, it was now time to pay attention to the rest of the audio system - being the amp and speakers.

The plan - SQ, not SPL, in mind:

1. Remove the ML amp and the speakers
2. Install an Alpine Optim8 DSP/Amplifer, and some reference speakers - connect the Optim8 to the head unit via digital coaxial
3. Run the front speakers 2 way active - so make sure the tweeter has fs <1,000Hz for a lower crossover point - Gladen Zero Pro - fs = 800Hz - needed Stinger spacers for the woofers, the magnets were so deep we were worried about hitting the window glass (a bit over 5mm of clearance in the end).
4. Due to the size of the Gladen tweeters, put them in a pillar or dash pod
5. Put some 130mm rear speakers as rear fill - LPF/HPF 8,000Hz and 150Hz - Audio System 130CO. The Alpine R and S 55 series are also a drop in"
6. Have a nice SQ subwoofer in a small sealed box - a clearance Steg SQ8-4 fitted the bill perfectly

It all went pretty smoothly (surprisingly smoothly!!) - the only "snags" were the need to run new speaker cables for the front stage and sub, and tweeter placement.

(Edit - if your output from the T'eyes is RCA analog or Co-Ax digital, make sure your gain is at maximum. Settings cog -> Sound -> Power Conditioning -> slide to max which is 60 IIRC)

The rest of this post is some photos, and a quick sound check at the end. Note the Alpine DSP has a standard boost from 150Hz down, I'll likely attenuate that flatter after listening on the road.

The ML amp, Parking Assist (which I don't think did anything), and the DVD navigation computer out - Alpine in. Win - it fitted in the bracket formerly occupied by the ML amp

Front door prep

Alpine DSP - note coax digital to CC3, the USB is for connection to the laptop. Power/speakers loom not plugged in FYI. The installer was happy with the power supply to the ML, no need for new power, just a really good earth

New rear co-axial speaker, the ML tweeter disconnected

What the original rear door speakers looked like

continued...

 

[willyroo]

cont...

Alpine setup screen, primary input Co-ax, secondary BT

Steg SQ8 amp in a compact sealed box

And here's the first run post DSP:

 

[excessive]

Really nice work. did you delete the factory subwoofer?

 

[willyroo]

factory subwoofer

Still there, not connected. Thinking about putting in a 6" JL Sub into the box, will likely need a bit of modding for the 108mm (4.25") mounting depth. Installer mentioned he's done a sub in an LC100 in that same area, and noted with a spare 150W sub channel available on the Alpine, the JL might be a good option.

 

[ed94r]

What pods did you use for the highs? Interested in a improved way to mount (currently have mine angled in the sail panels) that faces the drivers toward the audience.

Also, regarding wiring the tweeters thru the dash...permanent or reversible?

 

[willyroo]

What pods did you use for the highs?

3d printed - we did a rough sketch and took a tweeter to a shop the installer uses. He charged A$80 for the pair.

They are screwed into the dash, however removing them wouldn't be too hard, and a little cap would mask the hole. However no intention to remove them.

 

[Biga27110]

Thanks for the pics!

 

[Nori470]

Sounds great through the video! This is what I was hoping for when I upgraded my speakers/amp/head unit on my GX...unfortunately sounds like ass. I think the Teyes was not installed correctly. I hope to do it right on my LX

 

[Biga27110]

Sounds great through the video! This is what I was hoping for when I upgraded my speakers/amp/head unit on my GX...unfortunately sounds like ass. I think the Teyes was not installed correctly. I hope to do it right on my LX

My volume doesnt get very loud do you have that problem too?

 

[Nori470]

My volume doesnt get very loud do you have that problem too?

Mine was too loud when i first had it installed. There are "Gain" settings in the menu listed as "power conditioning". I turned mine way down to make the high pitched whine more tolerable while also giving many more levels of volume before it becomes to loud

 

[Biga27110]

Mine was too loud when i first had it installed. There are "Gain" settings in the menu listed as "power conditioning". I turned mine way down to make the high pitched whine more tolerable while also giving many more levels of volume before it becomes to loud

Oh very interesting I will see if power conditioning has an effect on the RCA outputs. I've also noticed from 0-25 volume on the Teyes is very little difference then it starts coming alive after 30 but the max is 36 so right when it starts to get good the volume is capped.

I'm wondering if those using digital outputs dont have this problem vs those of us who are using the RCA outputs.

 

[Nori470]

Oh very interesting I will see if power conditioning has an effect on the RCA outputs. I've also noticed from 0-25 volume on the Teyes is very little difference then it starts coming alive after 30 but the max is 36 so right when it starts to get good the volume is capped.

I'm wondering if those using digital outputs dont have this problem vs those of us who are using the RCA outputs.

Turning the power conditioning up should resolve this. I am using RCA outputs

 

[rbrave]

What’s the verdict on the Alpine unit so far? Looking to do almost the exact same setup but in an LC. Is there enough power for the sub? Is one 10” enough for you?

Last - are you using the little wired remote that came with the unit?

 

[willyroo]

What’s the verdict on the Alpine unit so far?

You know how you buy/install something, and a week or 2 later you start thinking "mmm not quite as good as I thought"?

This is the opposite. It sounds amazing. The only "issue" - the Gladen woofers, even HPF'd under 100Hz, are rattling the cards at elevated volumes. Installer is coming back, neither of us expected them to be so strong.

Sub is on 1 (of 2) channels, and plenty of overhead. I've had to relieve the sub above about 100Hz. At the stage no issues, it was on clearance - however knowing what I know now, I'd go a dual coil 10" sealed and run both sub channels through it. Remember the 2 sub channels can't be bridged.

The wired remoted is in the glovebox, disconnected. Its use case is volume (head unit anyway), sub volume (left at max), and change from optical to BT (again head unit for BT).

 

[rbrave]

I feel you on vibrating door cards. That’s the worst part after an install or season change, having to tear things apart again to track down a buzz or rattle.

I had been considering a horn enclosure or ported cab for a sub, but can’t get over how small the sealed boxes are. I’ll keep an eye on options for dual VC cabs, and will likely put it in a trapezoidal box to really maximize compactness in the back.

 

[sco00ter]

@willyroo thanks for the write up! I’m about to do the teyes install in an 07LX along with aftermarket amps/speakers.

I read the RCA output for the Teyes was around 2V so a Line Driver (like a audio control overdrive plus) might be a solid solution for a more powerful signal to the amps.

Did you go this route or maybe you didn’t have an issue with the Teyes rca output?

Also, which DSP did you go with?