Ok...This is going to be pretty quick and dirty compared to the original that got wiped out by the MUD DB "refresh" the other day
This is for all those one
s like me who tend to over think things, tend to break plastic doohickeys forcing stuff, etc
How to remove the center (or rear as Mr. T calls it) console in a LX450:
Note: I had my PS seat removed (see last pics for reason) but I'm sure this can be done without doing so...I also completely removed the shift console...You don't have to but it just makes it easier IMO if you do
(1) Remove the 4 phillips-head screws (2 DS, 2 PS) securing the shift console and the 4 10mm hex-head screws (2 DS, 2 PS) from the side of the center console. Note, unlike the FZJ80 apparently, there is NO need to remove the screw under the cupholder...it does nothing more than secure the cupholder to the metal substructure under the console (see later pic)
(2) Remove the shift console: Lift up the shift console and disconnect the PWR/2nd Start connector (push in on the tab with a small flat-head screwdriver and gently pull apart), shift the LX into neutral, spin the console 90 degrees to the right, and lift off
(3) Open up the center console's lower bin, remove all of your prized possessions, the felt from the bottom (if there), and then remove the 2 10mm funky hidden nuts
(4) I removed the CD changer face plate (as suggested in an above post) - not sure if this is necessary but it did open up a lot of room around the changer so...Picture shows how the face plate attaches with the friction clips
(5) At this point you should be ready to lift off the console...In my case, those two bolts poking up through the lower bin (see hidden nuts picture above) addend a considerable amount of resistance. I'm guessing my console has never been removed and therefore the holes are tight on the bolts...Maybe after repeated removals this would not be the case? But, that originally threw me off as I did not want to break anything. However, a little wiggling of the console front to back, side to side a bit, all while lift up on both sides of where those bolts are will cause the console to eventually come off. You can't shift the console forward or backward (because of those bolts poking up through the lower bin) and you cannot really tip the console backward or forward too much...Just pull straight up and you'll see this:
(6) Here is a shot of the underside of the console - note, no special plastic clip doohickeys or anything else to undo or mess around with
This concludes my console removal tutorial
- Now is a good time to break out the shop vac and do some general cleaning around the area. Also, if you've been wanting to adjust your parking brake, now is a good time to do so
I was pretty disappointed that there was no "pot of gold" under the console
- After reading numerous thread I expected to find some interesting items AND a ton of change...Alas, other that dirt and food crumbs all I found was one stinking penny
Read on if you are interested in an interior ground point on a LX450.
LX450 interior ground point:
My reason for needing to pull the center console (and the PS seat) was to access the ground point that is located underneath it. I wanted to ground my Blue Sea aux fuse block here to allow me the option of grounding stuff I am adding in the truck, like additional 12v outlets etc., to the aux fuse block. Originally I had planned to just ground stuff near where I add the item. I can still do so, but this gives me another option. I discovered when I added a 12v outlet in the rear cargo area for power for my fridge that the closest/best ground point was outside, under the truck near the center of the rear cross member. This meant yet another wire running through my PS grommet in the rear which was already congested with the OEM stuff, my CB antenna cable, my Hoppy trailer harness cable, etc. IMO, it will be easier, and shorter, to just run the ground wire back up to my aux fuse block in this case and probably the majority of other cases when I add stuff.
Here are some pictures for those interested of the ground point:
(1) In a LX you have to remove the subwoofer. Remove the 3 10mm hex-head bolts and disconnect the connector on the DS of the sub and set it aside
(2) In the picture above you can see the ground point...Here is a close up picture
(3) With that wiring harness running right by the ground point it was a little bit of a challenge getting the 10mm hex-head bolt out to add my ground cable. Actually the challenge was more around getting everything lined back up and the bolt back in. I thought about trying to move the wiring harness out of the way but decide that would be more work that it was worth. You can see my ground cable (silver colored 4ga cable) is attached and runs under the subwoofer bracket and carpet (that has been pulled back a bit). I'll probably add some split loom over the cable someday but it didn't dawn on me to do so at the time
(4) Blue Sea 12 position aux fuse block. Yeah, overkill but I (hopefully) will never run out of interior aux fuse positions and with 4ga power and ground cable it will handle plenty of juice
(5) Cover on and ready for labels
