LX 570 - SS3 Fog Lights (w install) (1 Viewer)

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I installed these in my 2013 LX 570 today in the yellow pro version.


Man, they are BRIGHT!!!
EDIT: Just drove them at night on some dark windy roads and damn. It lights up everything. Even my wife was shocked at the difference when I turned them off. Very happy with the purchase at the moment.

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I thought I would add a little install instruction after this because all I can find online is an RX and they are pretty similar, but not exact.
 
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INSTALL FOG LIGHTS ON 2013 LEXUS LX 570:
As I said before I could only find a guide on an RX and wanted to put out a specific LX guide.

Step 1 - Access:
The way to access the fog lights on the LX is through the wheel wells. There is a one piece cover that extends from under the front corner of the car to the back of the wheel well. It is held in place with three 10mm screws, three torx (star) style screws and about 7-10 of the pop clips similar to the engine cover. Two of the 10mm bolts have a clip holding them in place and two of the torx bolts do to. These clips are for sure the trickiest part of the entire install. Once you figure out how they work, you could probably complete this part in less than 5 minutes. As it was. this took me about 20 minutes on the first and 10 minutes on the second. Turn the tire towards the opposite side you are working on.

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The bottom two torx screws are the ones that have clips on them.


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the two 10mm screws closest to the wheel have clips.

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This was the only clip along the outer wheel well that was really needed to remove. It is just above the torx style screws If you like to work in a wide open environment then you could pop all the clips really easily, but it just isn't necessary for how simple the actual replacement of the fog light is.
So I popped this on and the following one circled in the front back of the wheel well.

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The next part is a bit of finesse and a bit of brute strength. The panel is over lapping a couple of others so you want to free everything up so you can move the panel. It is pretty tightly held if this is the first time the screws have been removed. I started at the 10mm bolts and got that part free. The clips are just sandwiching the part in place. At the 10mm bolts there is a cut out that you can use for leverage. You should be able to pop out the bottom while leaving the clips in place. Once they are out move up to the torx style clips. You basically want to show the cover straight towards the other side of the car to get it out of the clip. It takes some strength, but if you use short fast accelerations, they came straight out of the clips for me. Here is a picture so you know what you are dealing with. The bottom of that picture is facing you on the outside of the wheel well. You are reusing all hardware so be careful.

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STEP 2 - Fog Lights

This was a little different between Driver and Passenger for me, but I may have been missing a piece on the Drivers side. The passenger side had a plastic shroud over it. It wasn't a major difference regardless.

So peel back the wheel well cover and you will see this.

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The blue dot is the fog light. It is just sitting there waiting to be replaced. YAY!

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Remove the 2 phillips screws in red and unclip the power to the fog light in the red square and it should swing free. I unscrewed the green screw, but I don't think it was holding the fog light on. Either way they are super easy to deal with. The right side of the fog light is just lightly held by some clips that the housing rotates under.

I will add the bit about the Passenger shroud here in case you start on that side.
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To get to the passenger side fog light screws you need to remove this shroud. It is held in place by the 2 clips you can see on the top of this picture and one on the bottom right as you are looking at it from the wheel well. Honestly I just kinda yanked it and it came off. It is pretty easy to find the clips though once you know what you are looking for.

That's it! Your fog lights are gone.

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Here is the empty space if you need to estimate spacing or anything.
 
Step 3 - Install SS3

This is pretty specific to my Fog Lights which was dead simple. Can't say enough about how easy this was and how effective they are over stock equipment. In Love...

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Here is what came in my box. Headlights, Mounting brackets, Screws, wiring harness.

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This is the only "tricky" part of the SS3 install. You just need to match the angle and height of the light and mounting bracket to the OEM equipment. Remember OEM plugs in from the bottom for frame of reference. Plug in the wiring harness into the back of the new light and then pug the other end into the car's wiring harness. It had a raised bump that clicked when it was seated. Pretty easy, plug n play.

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This is it installed. Pretty simple. The only thing I failed to do was adjust the height of the beam with the screws that attach the light to the mounting bracket before I sealed it back up. You can see the mounting screws between the two OEM screws that attach the mounting bracket to the car. Mine are fine for now, but I might consider lowering them a little towards the ground eventually.

Closing up is just a reversal of Step 1, but go slow and don't force anything. Once the overlaps are all back in place, it should seat correctly and you can reinstall the screws. Feel free to ask for clarification. Good luck!
 
Tried searching the site but no results returned, only white fog light replacements and a bulb replacement. Looks great and would love to do this mod. Thanks for the great write up.

EDIT: Found them on Amazon. Amazon.com: SS3 LED Fog Light Kit for 2013-2015 Lexus LX570, Yellow SAE/DOT Fog Sport by Diode Dynamics: Automotive

Thanks for the kind words and Glad you found them!

They have a sport, pro, and max version I believe. The Pro is so bright I can't imagine needing anything more. I still love them.

Watch out when you install them. Mine are aimed little high and I literally watch as people coming the other way put their hand up to block the light. It's that bright, but makes driving at night a pleasure.
 
I couldn't find the fog lights for 2013-2015 LX570 anywhere.
Can anyone put a link here? TIA
 
I have a GX 470, but I'll give a little plug here regarding light quality...Diode Dynamics lights are AWESOME!!! You can see an amazingly in depth comparison here.
I had DD SS3 yellow fogs on my Tacoma, which I just sold; so now I'm in the process of getting them on the GX.
They have tons of high quality adapters for all different applications (the kit I got for my Taco worked great)...but it's kinda hard to tell what works for your specific vehicle (unless I'm missing something).
I bought mine through Hotshot Offroad, because they're really active on the TacomaWorld forum. They're super helpful, so you could contact them to get exactly what you need to fit your rig.
 
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Great write up! I just installed a pair of the SS3 Max Fogs with the clear lenses this weekend and they are super bright! The 2016+ Tacoma kit mounted up perfectly with zero modifications needed with my 2015 LX, which I was very happy about.

I decided on the Diode Dynamics over the Baja Designs after reading through a lot of that TacomaWorld thread and bought them from HotShot Offroad - great experience.

That plastic shroud was a bit of a pain to work around, I ended up just bending it upwards and awkwardly holding it up while I removed/installed the passenger light. I tried pulling if off but I didn’t seem to have enough leverage and it was flexible enough to work around it. Curious why it’s only on the passenger side...
 
@pound excellent write up man. I just installed these exact fog lights on my 2011 LX570 and your write up was spot on for my install. I just wanted to say thank you. Would’ve taken me 30-60 minutes longer to install with no instructions on getting the fender liner apart. Also, when I did the passenger side, I came back to the thread when I got stumped on the shroud. Was so pleased to see you even mentioned that. Great work!

A few lessons learned:

1. Mount the bracket to the fog light before installing. Go ahead and get the light angled/positioned how you want it. For me, this was down (to point towards the ground.)

2. When you get the first side done and realize how easy the install is; remind yourself to slow down on the second side. It would be silly to get the second light totally installed, get the liner all put back together, and only to realize you forgot to plug up the light. Ask me how I know…

Anyways, I ended up taking one side totally back apart to angle the light down. This was the passenger side, so I had to remove everything including the shroud. Kind of annoying. And the second side I had to totally remove the liner to plug the light in. Btw, the side that plugs into the harness can be plugged in backwards. Make sure to test the light before buttoning everything back up.

Lastly, my first impression. I haven’t used these at night yet and will follow back up when I do. After I installed my wife came out to see once I fired the truck up. Her first comment “wow those are bright.” I caught the reflection of them in a few car bumpers and also in the reflection of a glass building. I’ll say this, if you run around with these on, they will DEFINITELY get attention. They are blatantly yellow and very bright. You won’t be flying under the radar running these fogs, I can promise you that.
 
Also…

-A headlamp is really helpful.
-There are two small mud flaps on the front of the wheel well. I finally found that rub from my 33” setup. Removed those.
-There are two round chrome bezel’s that I removed and am having paint matched. Only way to remove them is to have the fog light completely out. Held in by 3 easy clips.
 
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I purchased the Luxeon LED fog lights directly from Diode Dynamics when I purchased some replacement HID bulbs from them. I've had them for a few months and hope to install them in the next weekend or two. This write up should help!

 
UPDATE: I had to Lower the fog light beam down as I could see the drivers on the other side of the road putting their hand up to shield their eyes and flashing their brights as though I had mine on.

It's way easier to adjust with the wheel wells off, so follow the aiming PDF on diode dynamics website if you are using these on-road.
 
Just did this install on a 2010 LX. Everything mostly similar. One difference is the lights have 4 screws on each lens. I guess they must have made a design change to simplify install on the later models. Also, in these models there are a ton of hex headed screws with washers. None of these need to come out for any reason, no matter how much it seems like one should. The button head screws are the only ones that come out.
Something I don’t think that was mentioned above, possibly because it should have been obvious, is that the brackets are not interchangeable. There is a left and right bracket, if you mix them up the screw holes won’t align. The LH bracket is for USA drivers side.
2010 still have the shroud on passenger side. I assume it’s there because the fender liner is louvered on that side, so more water gets in that area. Even knowing it was there it took me a few minutes to get that off. Releasing the clips was the only way I could get mine to budge.
Not sure how long they’ve been on the market, but I bought the Yellow SS3 Pro with optional back lights. There is an extra wire in the harness. I ran this into the grill area zip tied along the factory fog light wiring harness. The idea is it’s an optional running light. I havent connected them to a 12v source yet. I may take a look at the DRL circuit and see if there is some way to utilize that, but otherwise I’ll probably tie it to the ignition circuit and maybe add a switch to turn them off completely.
The bezel situation is similar with the early models. They would be difficult to remove while factory fogs are in. Once they are out, the bezel is easy to remove. Even with the SS3s installed. There is enough room to pull them out from the outside. The clips on one of mine did break though. I’ll probably paint mine, but that can be a project for another day now that they are easy to remove.
The one thing I wish that was better mechanically speaking is the lack of real vertical adjustment. Considering how cautious everyone is saying to be about having the cutoff lower than on coming traffics line of site, relying on a friction fit and a locknut to be what points the lights seems like poor planning. I haven’t got to test them in the dark yet, but went ahead and pointed them pretty far down within their range of motion within the bracket. I hope I came close, otherwise I guess I’ll be taking the covers off again and repointing them in the dark.

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Here are some night shots. I have Hikari LEDs in my stock headlight projectors, for comparison.

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Just did this install on a 2010 LX. Everything mostly similar. One difference is the lights have 4 screws on each lens. I guess they must have made a design change to simplify install on the later models. Also, in these models there are a ton of hex headed screws with washers. None of these need to come out for any reason, no matter how much it seems like one should. The button head screws are the only ones that come out.
Something I don’t think that was mentioned above, possibly because it should have been obvious, is that the brackets are not interchangeable. There is a left and right bracket, if you mix them up the screw holes won’t align. The LH bracket is for USA drivers side.
2010 still have the shroud on passenger side. I assume it’s there because the fender liner is louvered on that side, so more water gets in that area. Even knowing it was there it took me a few minutes to get that off. Releasing the clips was the only way I could get mine to budge.
Not sure how long they’ve been on the market, but I bought the Yellow SS3 Pro with optional back lights. There is an extra wire in the harness. I ran this into the grill area zip tied along the factory fog light wiring harness. The idea is it’s an optional running light. I havent connected them to a 12v source yet. I may take a look at the DRL circuit and see if there is some way to utilize that, but otherwise I’ll probably tie it to the ignition circuit and maybe add a switch to turn them off completely.
The bezel situation is similar with the early models. They would be difficult to remove while factory fogs are in. Once they are out, the bezel is easy to remove. Even with the SS3s installed. There is enough room to pull them out from the outside. The clips on one of mine did break though. I’ll probably paint mine, but that can be a project for another day now that they are easy to remove.
The one thing I wish that was better mechanically speaking is the lack of real vertical adjustment. Considering how cautious everyone is saying to be about having the cutoff lower than on coming traffics line of site, relying on a friction fit and a locknut to be what points the lights seems like poor planning. I haven’t got to test them in the dark yet, but went ahead and pointed them pretty far down within their range of motion within the bracket. I hope I came close, otherwise I guess I’ll be taking the covers off again and repointing them in the dark.

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Did you ever get around to wiring he backlights? I installed the same fog lights on my 2010 and not sure where to tap into.
 
Did you ever get around to wiring he backlights? I installed the same fog lights on my 2010 and not sure where to tap into.
Sorry.. not yet. I have a Auxbeam switch I’m slowly installing and was going to hook them to that… I was going to test another way to do it as well… Im changing my oil today, I will see if my other idea can work.
 
Sorry.. not yet. I have a Auxbeam switch I’m slowly installing and was going to hook them to that… I was going to test another way to do it as well… Im changing my oil today, I will see if my other idea can work.
I just installed the DD elite series fogs that have the amber back light also. I didn't see and obvious and easy way to tap into a 12v supply to power the back light. Did you ever get yours hooked up?
 
I just installed the DD elite series fogs that have the amber back light also. I didn't see and obvious and easy way to tap into a 12v supply to power the back light. Did you ever get yours hooked up?
Not yet.. one afternoon I messed with the wires at the DRl resistor to see if there was something obvious there to tap into, but couldn’t find anything that was switching. I’m assuming the resistor is just between the DRL circuit and ground, so all the DRL switching is upstream. Will need to get the schematic out to see where in the fuse box to tap into.
 

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