I don't want to derail the post (or sound like a dick) but my Cruise only brakes when it has to slow down more than engine braking allows. What do you want it to do when someone cuts in front of you? When it happens and the cruise is not activated I use the brakes. I haven't noticed any significant brake wear on the LX and I use the Cruise a lot.
LX 570 Needing Front Brakes at 15k???
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‘13 LX go through pads, I’m at 70k and doing all 4 new rotors for the first time with my 4th set of front and 3rd set of rear pads. I tow a 6800lb camper 5-10k miles a year, off road, and drive entirely on curvy mountain roads.
I was told on a previous thread about this. it works similar to people that drive with both feet, the right foot is on the gas pedal trying to maintain the selected speed, but the left is pressing on the brake to slow it down enough To maintain the distance and this is what causes the severe brake wear that a lot of people are seeing. This type of two footed driving has always caused substantial brake wear and I think it was engineered into the system so you wouldn’t see as much lag. After learning about this I also noticed it when I used the radar controlled cruise control and it definitely was braking at the same time it was trying to accelerate.
Excessive front pad wear could be from defective pads, overheating the pads, contaminating the pads (eg. Brake fluid leak) or warped rotors.
Overheating the pads/rotors could from poor driving habits, like riding your breaks, rapid decelerarion, a mechanical failure in the front caliper(s) or the hydraulic system (eg proportioning valve). Mechancial failures are not unheard of, but pretty rare at 15k.
If the wear is even on both sides caliper failure/seizure or a leak seems unlikely since 2 identical failures would be rare.
Have a mechanic figure it out for you so it doesn't happen again.
Overheating the pads/rotors could from poor driving habits, like riding your breaks, rapid decelerarion, a mechanical failure in the front caliper(s) or the hydraulic system (eg proportioning valve). Mechancial failures are not unheard of, but pretty rare at 15k.
If the wear is even on both sides caliper failure/seizure or a leak seems unlikely since 2 identical failures would be rare.
Have a mechanic figure it out for you so it doesn't happen again.
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- #26
It was on a Lexus Service record. It was a '15 with only 15k
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- #27
Yeh it was the Lexus Service History.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I am curious about this too. While shopping for a 200 and looking at the Lexus service histories, 4 of the 5 vehicles needed new front pads by 30k miles, with the pad thickness reported in the service history. 80% replacement rate rules out driver habits in my book. I've been primarily shopping the 8spd variants from 2016-2018.
Are the front pads, in fact, that bad? Are other years as bad? Any known fixes or changes that Mr. T has released and implemented?
I'm not convinced "just don't slam on the brakes" is a solution since, you know, emergency braking isn't something that is typically planned ahead of time.
Are the front pads, in fact, that bad? Are other years as bad? Any known fixes or changes that Mr. T has released and implemented?
I'm not convinced "just don't slam on the brakes" is a solution since, you know, emergency braking isn't something that is typically planned ahead of time.
49k miles brakes are fine.
Anybody knows how much it costs to replace pads and rotors at the dealer? I don't trust indy shops
Geez it's usually the other way around.
Same thing happened with my LX from new, except it made it to 18k on the fronts. Given i was putting 45k highways miles on the vehicle per year, it got a little much. The entire time i owned it the brake pedal was mushy as well. Tried multiple LXs - all had mushy brakes. One of the reasons i went back to LC.
note - I’ve also driven the 2020 LX. Same mushy brakes. Must be a Lexus specific tuning.
My local Lexus dealership has a special of $399 to replace pads. Does not include rotors.
I agree with @coleAK. Not everyone drives their cruisers the same way. Open road highway miles can ratchet up the miles with practically no brake use. Stop and go, elevation, congested local city driving, and one is always on the brakes.
For a 6000lb rig, it's not unlike why our MPG is rated 13 / 17 MPG city to highway. I'd wager the brakes would get at least 30% less life lived out on city roads, wasting effort accelerating and decelerating the beast. Add in bad driving habits, it could be more.
It's common for front brake pads to wear quicker than the rear brake pads. About a 2:1 ratio of front to rear pad changes may not be unexpected.
Pads are $60/pair. 20 minutes to drop them in. The dealers like to charge an arm and a leg. It's a consumable item that's not a big deal but I agree one wants their brake system to be issue free.
@stonepa - the brake system, pads, part numbers, everything is identical between the LC and LX. Weight is not the same however, with the LX being upwards of 300-500lbs heavier.
For a 6000lb rig, it's not unlike why our MPG is rated 13 / 17 MPG city to highway. I'd wager the brakes would get at least 30% less life lived out on city roads, wasting effort accelerating and decelerating the beast. Add in bad driving habits, it could be more.
It's common for front brake pads to wear quicker than the rear brake pads. About a 2:1 ratio of front to rear pad changes may not be unexpected.
Pads are $60/pair. 20 minutes to drop them in. The dealers like to charge an arm and a leg. It's a consumable item that's not a big deal but I agree one wants their brake system to be issue free.
@stonepa - the brake system, pads, part numbers, everything is identical between the LC and LX. Weight is not the same however, with the LX being upwards of 300-500lbs heavier.
I've always felt that the 200's heavier weight causes more wear and tear on the brakes/rotors. Probably also doesn't help that additionally, for example, in my area and neighborhood, there are a lot of steep roads and hills I go up and down daily. Puts more wear and tear on the brakes.
I've been trying to engine brake more (i.e. place shifter in 2nd gear) to relieve some brake wear when I drive down hills. Seems to help some, and I suspect the transmission is relatively more robust.
I've been trying to engine brake more (i.e. place shifter in 2nd gear) to relieve some brake wear when I drive down hills. Seems to help some, and I suspect the transmission is relatively more robust.
Very easy job to do yourself or with a friend. Get some OEM parts, do one wheel at a time and you'll be done in less than 2 hours (without rotors). Go over rotors with scotchbrite pad to scuff them up and remove and pad material and make sure to bed them in properly.
EBAY ran a 25% off Autoparts sale and I grabbed a set of rotors and pads for my LX570 and Wife's GX460 for a steal. Sitting in the garage on the shelf for when the dealer tells me I need to change them. I think Napa will recut rotors for you if you drop them off, but you'll need 4 jackstands in that case.
EBAY ran a 25% off Autoparts sale and I grabbed a set of rotors and pads for my LX570 and Wife's GX460 for a steal. Sitting in the garage on the shelf for when the dealer tells me I need to change them. I think Napa will recut rotors for you if you drop them off, but you'll need 4 jackstands in that case.
There is nothing "special" about this. What a rip off. You can get all 4 rotors and F/R pads for under $399. And it sure as hell is not going to take a dealership 2.79 hours to replace pads only at $100/hour labor.
Imagine the size of the dealer owners yacht...must be nice
bloc
SILVER Star
OEM rotors are $52 each from some sites, I wouldn't bother getting them turned or doing anything to them other than remove and replace. I definitely wouldn't put aftermarket on, as these are so highly stressed already.
Exactly.
My friend brought her 05 camry in for an oil change and they tried to tell her she "needed" like $4k in work.. to address a minor oil leak, a power steering rack boot, spark plugs, fogged headlights, etc.
Exactly.
My friend brought her 05 camry in for an oil change and they tried to tell her she "needed" like $4k in work.. to address a minor oil leak, a power steering rack boot, spark plugs, fogged headlights, etc.
Just like the Lexus dealer by me charging $300 for the 10k/20k/30k/40k services. They try to upsell you a balance, alightment, fuel treatment every 10k miles. Its honestly a joke and a huge turnoff. I avoid the dealer like the plague. These rigs are easy to work on. Take your time and enjoy.
