LX 470 suspension fix

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Threads
1
Messages
5
Location
Maui
Help. I have read all the threads possible on lx 470 suspension issues. I have some open questions to see what others have done.
1. The front t bars do not get much discussion and I am wondering if these should be replaced or tightened at the same time the 2 front globes are replaced? if replace stock vs aftermarket?

2. How does one ensure all the old bad suspension fluid is flushed from the system? Does anyone have a step by step? i.e. flush first, change globes, flush again?

3. Has anyone been successful at replacing their system? conversion is tempting but would hate to abandon a good system when it is just weak Tbars and a couple of globes.

4. The rear globes seem to have lasted longer. Am I fooling myself. My guess is the front tbars lost load and put additional pressure on globes? Thoughts

p.s. 1999 lx 470 165K and strong - ride is bouncy and hard, pump moves vehicle up and down, fluid is bad, I can't find a mechanic in hawaii who knows what they are doing with this

thanks
 
Welcome! Sucks your first post is suspension troubles but you're in Hawaii ;). When changing out the globes and you want to adjust the tbars to get the pressure in the AHC system back to spec, if you have access to a Toyota diagnostic tool it'll make your life a ton easier. I believe uHu has posted how to get the pressures without the toyota tool. I'm pretty sure I've read on here peoples write ups on doing a fluid flush. Now, what island are you on?
 
aloha loudlx, I bet you have a kick A$$ stereo too. Great advice on diagnostic tool. No I do not have so probably pay dealer to run and give me the codes.

I see you scrapped the AHC and went to conventional suspension. There is a little voice in my head saying to do the same put money to the conversion. So far I like the sounds of old man emu set up. I would love to have the kit lift the vehicle to the H position all the time so if you have a suggestion, I am all ears. I would like to see some pics of a conversion with slight lift without having to drop the transfer case.

Maui is the island for me.
 
Aloha luvmylx470! My daughter is going to Calvary Bible College there in Kihei. My wife and I have been to the islands many times on surf trips.

Special request: PLEASE don't raise your rig and put ridiculously off set 12" wide wheels with 15" wide off-road tires!! Please don't do that!!!
mytruckxw2.jpg
 
1) The torsion bars just need adjusting (unless you lift it a lot). They do get tired but they can be adjusted back in spec pretty easily. "In-spec" means adjusting until the neutral pressure is correct. OTOH the rear springs cannot be adjusted of course. At 165K your are probably done.

2) Flushing is pretty easy. There is a detailed writeup on the board somewhere. Basically it is central accumulator, then shocks, then globes, then settle:
a) put into Low, empty and refill the reservoir with your favorite suction tool until it has clean fluid
b) bleed the center accumulator until empty, start truck and wait for it to refill the central accumulator with clean fluid (leave in Low, if it raises itself for whatever reason just put it back into Low). Make SURE you do not run the reservoir dry.
c) bleed both front corners down until it will not drop any more (make sure your head is not underneath) to flush out the shocks (gets close to 100%), start the truck after both are done to refill the fronts. *may* have to start and restart the engine once or twice (if the pump does not build pressure quickly it assumes an error and turns off)...mine only took one crank each time but YMMV. Make SURE you do not run the reservoir dry.
d) do the same thing in the rear (again, watch your head, don't let the reservoir go dry)
e) at this point the only dirty fluid is in the globes so go back and change these (bleed pressure off then swap), both fronts and then both rears, starting the truck after each one or each pair (your choice) to refill, then bleed each pair until no bubbles.
f) Top off fluid to Max line and raise truck to N
g) Drive around the block and let it adjust
h) Check fluid level in reservoir. Bleed the globes again if it makes you happy.

3) Yes. Search is your friend. I prefer to repair and keep the AHC since I like the flexibility but others, especially those with lots of added weight, prefer to replace with [insert favorite aftermarket product]

4) Yes you are fooling yourself. =) The bouncy hard ride means the globes are gone. The "hard ride" part comes from having no damping left and the "bouncy ride" part comes from the high pressure bypass operating to keep the hydraulics from leaking/bursting. Replace all four globes and you'll get back the supreme AHC factory ride. Swapping globes is the same thing as replacing old beat up shocks except there is less labor cost (if you don't have to flush the system swapping is ridiculously easy) but higher parts cost. Suggest contacting Akella, CDan, or Beno for quotes on new ones.

jonathan
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom