My 2000 LX 470 got hit on the driver’s side front, and sustained only cosmetic damage to the front bumper, and rim. Everything was repaired/replaced and it looks great, but ever since it came back from the body shop last fall, the ride has been harsh, even on the soft setting. I asked my trusty mechanic to check out the suspension, and he said everything looks good. The suspension fluid level is fine, and the repair shop didn’t put anything in there (I asked). Anyone know what I should ask my mechanic to look at? Should I break down and go to the dealer? I hate going the dealer. Last time I went there they turned off the daytime running lights, and now I have to make an appointment just to get the things turned back on! Every time I go there it seems like $1,000 flies out of my pocket as soon as I walk in the door. I’m scared that they’ll tell me it’s a ridiculously expensive repair no matter what it really is. Could the repair shop have turned off the magic suspension genies somehow?
LX 470: Suddenly A Harsh Ride
- Thread starter gettnthar
- Start date
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uHu
Bridgeburner
Have a look at these threads:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=73382
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=68491
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=60619
My experience is also that the mechanics can't find any problem with the AHC/TEMS suspension.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=73382
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=68491
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=60619
My experience is also that the mechanics can't find any problem with the AHC/TEMS suspension.
there's a recall on the DRL's. should be no-charge to get them back to spec.
uHu
Bridgeburner
Does that mean that the ride is harsh not only in the front?
Does it feel like the springs are very hard, and the weels bounce along like on a tractor (without springs) or something?
Anyhow; could be the gas-springs, aka the nitrogen spheres, which is easy to check. Just follow the procedure in the posting of 12-20-05 in https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=60619
If they are bad, it's difficult to see the connection with the body damage or repair....
If the wrong fluid was used to top up the AHC fluid reservoir, it would take quite some time for it to get down to the sensitive parts, but if you bleed a bit at one of the actuators or accumulator, you will see if the fluid is good. Should be fairly clear (mine was nearly black, after having some brake fluid in the system for three years). Procedure like for brakes, just open carefully, hi pressure. AND, the vehicle will come down as you bleed.
If you want to check the actuators, you can measure the electrical resistance of each of the four solenoids in each of the four actuators with an ohm-meter. Unplug the 5-pin plug at the actuator and measure with reference to pin 2 (the middle one of the 3 in a row), 12-13.6 ohm to each of the other 4 pins.
If the nitrogen chamber test is ok (min 7 grads from LO to HI), then check the time it takes from LO to N, and from N to HI, and what the height difference is, front and rear, just to see that the system is OK otherwise.
Good Luck!
Does it feel like the springs are very hard, and the weels bounce along like on a tractor (without springs) or something?
Anyhow; could be the gas-springs, aka the nitrogen spheres, which is easy to check. Just follow the procedure in the posting of 12-20-05 in https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=60619
If they are bad, it's difficult to see the connection with the body damage or repair....
If the wrong fluid was used to top up the AHC fluid reservoir, it would take quite some time for it to get down to the sensitive parts, but if you bleed a bit at one of the actuators or accumulator, you will see if the fluid is good. Should be fairly clear (mine was nearly black, after having some brake fluid in the system for three years). Procedure like for brakes, just open carefully, hi pressure. AND, the vehicle will come down as you bleed.
If you want to check the actuators, you can measure the electrical resistance of each of the four solenoids in each of the four actuators with an ohm-meter. Unplug the 5-pin plug at the actuator and measure with reference to pin 2 (the middle one of the 3 in a row), 12-13.6 ohm to each of the other 4 pins.
If the nitrogen chamber test is ok (min 7 grads from LO to HI), then check the time it takes from LO to N, and from N to HI, and what the height difference is, front and rear, just to see that the system is OK otherwise.
Good Luck!
