Well after completing most everything, i fired it up but it will only stay running for about 3-5 seconds. I removed my fuel filters because i thought perhaps it was a fuel issue but still the same. I am using an MSD inline fuel pump and pressure seems good at the shrader valve when i depress it. I reprogrammed with tuner cat but perhaps i missed something. any ideas? Oh, i also get 50psi of oil pressure but no oil is reaching up to the valve springs, its all dry?
lt1 swapped in...not running? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kenai
- Start date
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If you're not getting oil pressure to the stock sending unit it will shut off the fuel flow after the initial crank signal.
You can jump the starter relay at the prime wire, but it would be bad if you're not getting oil.
You can also be not getting a tach signal, but I'm not sure if you'd even get it to fire without it.
You can jump the starter relay at the prime wire, but it would be bad if you're not getting oil.
You can also be not getting a tach signal, but I'm not sure if you'd even get it to fire without it.
Check your tach wire to make sure it is not going to ground and that a tach filter is in place. Have the fuel rails been 100% purged of air? What about the VATS system is it completely disarmed? The two stumpers in my swap that stopped me from running were not having a tach filter and the F'ing VATS system. I bought one of those Vats bypass modules and it did not work. I ended up having a new chip (93) made without VATS.
What year engine/ecm is it????
What year engine/ecm is it????
Good call on the VATS.
- Thread starter
- #5
well i used tunercat to dissable the VATS, but when i did enable the VATS it did the same thing. I am using the PCM to run the fuel pump and it turns on the 3 seconds, fires right up smoothly then dies. I had a bud check the pump and it will stay running the whole time, it even stays running for a second or so after the engine dies. My tach signal is there, i can even read it on my tachometer.
Update....Crap! My engine let out a nasty puff from the TB and has siezed. I can't turn it over manually either. I don't understand what is going on. I have been getting 50 psi of oil pressure, but i removed the valve cover and there is no oil up top. This motor has only 40k on it....i guess i am gonna have to tear it apart.
Update....Crap! My engine let out a nasty puff from the TB and has siezed. I can't turn it over manually either. I don't understand what is going on. I have been getting 50 psi of oil pressure, but i removed the valve cover and there is no oil up top. This motor has only 40k on it....i guess i am gonna have to tear it apart.
If you need any LT1 parts I have about anything you might want available. I hope this is not the case! Was this a junkyard engine? I have a 95 lt1 in my 80 that came from a totaled vette with 40k and I have yet to see any issues.
I am kinda at a loss for your next move. I would sure drain all the oil into a clear pan and check for coolant and bearing sludge. If you had 50 psi and the engine was cranking easy I am not sure what to think. The LT1 in normal circumstances almost pumps too much oil to the top of the engine. Can you get the pan off without yanking the engine this could shed some light.
I would definetley take a shot of your favorite poison right now to calm down
Kirk
I am kinda at a loss for your next move. I would sure drain all the oil into a clear pan and check for coolant and bearing sludge. If you had 50 psi and the engine was cranking easy I am not sure what to think. The LT1 in normal circumstances almost pumps too much oil to the top of the engine. Can you get the pan off without yanking the engine this could shed some light.
I would definetley take a shot of your favorite poison right now to calm down
Kirk
- Thread starter
- #7
okay latest update. I drained the oil and it was full of coolant. I could also see some coolant coming out between the cylinder head and block. So i pulled the whole top half of the motor off. There is coolant in everything, intake, oil and cylinders. Everything else looks good though, actually the motor is pretty freaking clean. I think it was seized because the cylinders were hydrolocked with coolant. I think that the head gasket blew because the cylinder was full of coolant. How in the CRAP could coolant be getting in! Also, i still don't have oil making it up to the top of the engine on the right bank. where should i look for a clog? thanks for everything!
Improperly installed head gasket?
Eskimo
SILVER Star
Make sure all your pistons will still reach TDC...
- Thread starter
- #10
latest update....Both heads are off and look great. Even the headgaskets look fine, i think that the coolant coming out of the block was being pushed out a spark plug hole. I am beyond confused. There was so much coolant in the cylinders, and throughout the intake. The rotating assembly seems fine, very smooth, just coolant everywhere!
You had coolant in your intake valley?
Intake crossover gasket.
If you had coolant IN the intake runners, then I'd be checking the throttle body coolant passages.
Intake crossover gasket.
If you had coolant IN the intake runners, then I'd be checking the throttle body coolant passages.
fj40charles
SILVER Star
If the engine hydrolocked, I'd worry about the connecting rods. I don't think the pink rods will hold up to hydro-locking.
- Thread starter
- #13
I think all my rods are good. I think that the coolant filled in some of the cylinders and backfed into the intake? I have no idea, but the one thing for sure is that coolant was in the oil and in the intake runners. What would be the most logical source? Also, i still don't know whey i did not get oil up on top of the right bank head. The lifters for the right bank have plenty of oil on them when i pull them out and the passages look good but no oil was making it up the push rods? wtf!!
- Thread starter
- #14
I think i may have made the crucial mistake....It was my understanding that the steam vents on the back of the heads went back to the TB. From further reading i think its supposed to go back to the radiator inlet hose. I think cooling was flowing directing into the throttle body! But, why would there be coolant in the oil? Also, i don't get any oil to the right side lifters even when i tried priming it with a drill? wtf
The coolant in the oil would come from the coolant accumilating on top of the pistons and then filtering down past the rings.
As for the not getting oil to the lifters. You got me. Never done any work on 350's really.
As for the not getting oil to the lifters. You got me. Never done any work on 350's really.
When you prime a sbc you have to rotate the motor for oil to get to both sides of the engine. Also, the distributor has to be installed for oil to get to both sides since the body channels the oil to each sides, so if you just spun the oil pump with some tool without the top part that fits into the block i dont think it will oil both sides. A lot of people take an old dizzy and knock the cam drive and the rotor off and use that as a priming tool.
What is the deal with this motor, did you rebuild it or pull it or what?
-Matt
Yup. You pumped coolant into the motor through the throttle body. It got past the rings and into the oil. You probably did not ruin the bearings as it didn't run very long, but you might have hydrolocked it and bent a rod. I'd measure piston height in relation to the deck at TDC.
- Thread starter
- #20
i think i dodged the bullet. The motor was only trying to start when it stopped. But I will check the heights. Man, i feel like an idiot....but i really thought i had the line in the right spot. So, it is supposed to go to the radiator inlet hose?
